Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
mslow

WR450 suspension sag for rocks

13 posts in this topic

What are you guys that ride a lot of rock using for your sag settings?

I had my suspension resprung for my weight and it feels more like it's ready for a mx track rather than dual sporting.

my riding is about 50% sand and 50% rock. (New Jersey vs PA)

I don't want to respring it again, so any thoughts on compression, rebound or sag settings would be awesome.

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You really should not be changing your sag settings for different riding conditions.

Sag is for geometry. You want that to be as close to a constant as possible.

If you change your sag settings for different riding conditions, your over/under steer conditions will change, making you have to re-learn your bikes handling each time you change the sag.

You should be changing your clickers.

Since the WR is not 'un-level' to begin with (un like KX, KTM, CRFR) you don't need to have substantially 'odd' sag settings, just to compensate.

25/100 is a good sag, in order to give you a neutral steering geometry.

Edited by Krannie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure on the spring rates, but I know they are aggressive so they can handle a packed bike on dual sport trips.

Seems to me the backing out the compression and rebound should probably do it, it'll just take some time riding and logging.

We're going on a 10 day off road trip and will experience everything from sand to rock gardens, so it'll be good to have the info.

Any of you guys using quick bleeders or anything to make the rebound and compression changes quicker and easier?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have to make sure your springs are correct for your weight before you do anything.

I'm 200 and needed heavier springs on both ends.

I ride the same terrain you do and the stock valving is pretty good.

Most people have 2 clicker settings. 1 for the rocks and 1 for the sand.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah i had the suspension all resprung and revalved at Custom Axis/Penske Racing, they've always done real good work for me and I know it's done right, I just need to dial it in for the rocky stuff I guess.

Planning on riding again soon and will probably back out the compression a few and rebound just a couple clicks and start the tedious chore of recording all the changes and results...PIA

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are telling us you your bike is valved and sprung for a mx track and you are dual sporting your bike Im missing the part that the suspension tuner did the job right.

If you told them you are riding on a mx track then it is not done right and you will need softer springs and hopefully only turns out on the damping adjusters

Sag setting remain basically constant . Its the spring rates and vavling rates that are changed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah i had the suspension all resprung and revalved at Custom Axis/Penske Racing, they've always done real good work for me and I know it's done right, I just need to dial it in for the rocky stuff I guess.

Planning on riding again soon and will probably back out the compression a few and rebound just a couple clicks and start the tedious chore of recording all the changes and results...PIA

Don't assume it's done done right simply because they have done stuff for you in the past; suspension is very finicky and it doesn't take much to go from right to wrong, especially when a place sees a lot of one style bikes like MX. Talk to your shop, and have them help you with setup and verify your wants made it into the bike setup or you'll forever be chasing an incorrectly setup bike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no, they (my friend Tony that works there) knows the riding i was planning on using it for, however I think they pushed more towards the stiffer ride because of my riding technique. Not that i'm a maniac or anything, but i tend to push things a little more than perhaps i should.

he asked exactly what my goal was, my point was that i prefer it a bit softer in the rock gardens.

what do you guys generally do to accomplish rocks and sand? ie how many clicks out for each do you usually go?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no, they (my friend Tony that works there) knows the riding i was planning on using it for, however I think they pushed more towards the stiffer ride because of my riding technique. Not that i'm a maniac or anything, but i tend to push things a little more than perhaps i should.

he asked exactly what my goal was, my point was that i prefer it a bit softer in the rock gardens.

what do you guys generally do to accomplish rocks and sand? ie how many clicks out for each do you usually go?

Then it sounds like your friend (and shop) would be a better resource for setting than we would since they built it and would know how it reacts better.

I'd say 3-4 clicks is what I've done in the past going from a typical "mixed" setup to wanting to "soften" the ride for rocks. But that's a stock setup and honestly it wasn't worth the effort in feel after I was done.

YMMV.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks

i've been in touch with him since i started the thread and we're going to work on it once i get there with the bike loaded for an upcoming trip so we can see how it reacts with the added weight.

10 day dual sport trip coming up in a few months...should be fun on the WR!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fellas, What sag numbers are you guys basing your free sag and rider sag on?

I was under the assumption that rider sag should be between 100-105mm. What should free sag be? Is my rider sag accurate?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fellas, What sag numbers are you guys basing your free sag and rider sag on?

I was under the assumption that rider sag should be between 100-105mm. What should free sag be? Is my rider sag accurate?

Static sag (weight of bike only) = 20-30mm. I like 25mm

Race sag (add ready to ride rider) = 100-105. I like 100

Yamaha recommends 25/100 to create the steering geometry they intended.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0