2strokezuke

NEDG 4th clip position 48 pilot 182 main 1.25-1.5 turns on the air screw Very good. No hesitation off idle. No flat areas. Maybe a smidge lean at 1/2 throttle. Seems to go away once the bike is warmed up. Regarding lights. I have a 2008 200xc that I put a headlight, brake light (front & rear switch), horn, Handle bar switch-module with High-Low,Horn, & kill. Street-Legal bike with no battery & stock stator. Using only KTM OEM parts, nothing aftermarket. The trick was getting a european wiring harness that was meant for full AC lighting. Uses a rectifier and a capacitor for the DC horn voltage.

Update while I am waiting on more needles... It was colder today (~50) which exacerbated the lean problem. I think your right on with the G diameter... But looking at the stock & JD needle tips and corresponding main jet specs... I think the main jet should live around 180-185. Both 180 & 182 were great on mine, I'll see how high I can go once the needle is figure out. idle-->1/8 throttle 48 pilot: 1.5-2 turns felt very good. 1/4 throttle NECW : CLIP 2p : Hard lean bog NECH : CLIP 2p : lean bog NECH : CLIP 3p : lean bog NECH : CLIP 4p : no bog 1/4 |1/2| WOT 180 : NECH : CLIP 4p >>> lean| OK | great 182 : NECH : CLIP 4p >>> lean| good | great No detonation on either of the 2, but low on smoke and feels like there's more power to be had.

I just did the same thing. You're right the TMX is garbage. Got a 2016 intake boot & throttle assemble... Carb was a direct bolt on. Both JD & STOCK use 48/50 and 180-185 range. Right now I have a 180 main with a NECJ needle. It feels smidge lean, but definitely close. I'm waiting on needles, I'll let you know how it goes.

Motor and PV is all the same. Trans might be different, even so the XC trans is not too wide for MX imo. If performance is the concern the carb on that bike is terrible, get a JD kit at a minimum. But yeah like others said, probably not worth it to do a conversion for marginal gains. XC’s are worth more.

OEM no contest

I agree with the sitting, standing is overstated. Pros sit a whole lot, and I do too. BUT, standing forces you to use your core and legs. You get better faster if you over-stand, especially if your new. I doubt anyone would disagree with that. Except with turns... Search YouTube for "how to do a motocross turn"; where they sit up on gas tank. It works in the woods too.

I have that bike, The stock pipe is awesome. I doubt an aftermarket pipe will be an improvement, more likely the opposite. Stock pipe is designed by engineers while aftermarket pipes are made by bro’s in California. Unless you have some specific reason to change it (like way more low end) the rule of thumb is OE pipes are the best. For 2 strokes

Pretend your riding bicycle. Stand up %90 of the time Stay on the balls of you feet on pedals Use body position to control the bike

My loop turns a swamp in spring. With deep high quality mud ruts. I practiced every day trying to figure how shred this type of gnar. In short there is no trick. You either have too. A. Blast through or over them on straights. B. Precisely control the bike in turns... Like stay in the line, maintain speed, with your eye on the exit... While also blasting through all the bumps in rut. If you've seen pro riders in person, they hit ruts like maniacs, bike going in 50 directions at once. So there is no dainty way of doing it.

What's up dudes! I know everyone has been waiting for the update on the 100 dollar bridge project. I separated my shoulder and can't ride soo I decided to do rev2 on the bridge; making it wide enough for tractors and rascals. I used mortar instead of concrete mix this time. Blocks + mortar =$90, ~10hrs of work. Zero measuring, Zero planning, One trip to Lowes. Its dried out now, otherwise there would be 6" of water where the bridge is... Original bridge after full year of abuse.

Thats kind of what I assumed after looking into it. I really like the convience of lock on grips. But I don't like the OEM housing. It has alot of play and friection and seams very fragile. I might get a Domino housing and try to find a quick turn cam for a lock on grip.

G2 makes one for the '22 supposedly. Another brand called Trex also does, but does not have a quick turn option. I think they include a new cable for both, which is annoying. Regardless, Would the OEM tube+cam fit into the G2 housing, or any other aftermarket housing? Would an after market tube+cam fit into the OEM housing? Are tube/cams made for specific housings or are they swappable?

I have 2022 125xc (CARBURATED). My throttle housing and handgrips/cam look like this: It uses ODI grips. There is a hex pattern that the throttle cam snaps on too. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I want a faster throttle rate and or smoother actuation... The ODI grips come with different cams, I am already using the largest one. I see aftermarket quick-turn cams, tubes, housing all over the internet... But I want everything to be compatible with the current OEM stuff. Like if/when something breaks or the grips wear out I can get on OEM part (which will be in stock) and replace it: (tube/grip, housing, cable should be OEM compatible) Is all this stuff universal? If i bought an aftermarket throttle tube or cam would fit flawlessly into the OEM housing? If i bought an aftermarket housing (like below) would the ODI tubes work with it as well? Thanks

I’m meant for fairweatherider... his SX. The PV is spring is stiffer on those.

Wait wait you have an SX... The stock pv position should be already close. For an EXC the PV should positioned stock or more closed. Definitely not more opened. I can’t remember the exact position I had it with that pipe (FMF SX fatty), I think it was a quarter notch above stock. What I have found is: shorter pipe length -> more closed PV preset longer pipe length -> more opened PV preset