natehawes

I had a buddy help me get the lower steering stem bearing off. He used an air hammer/chissel to pop it off. While doing it he put a scratch about 2 inched long on the stem just above the lower bearing. I think this should be ok, but wanted to make sure.

So after a hard landing a few weeks ago I was having trouble getting my bike into neutral. After a lot of input from your guys, I decided to check the shift shaft and that whole assembly first, and then the shift forks if it wasn't that. After taking off the clutch and shift shaft assembly, it became clear what the problem was....NO BEARINGS IN THE SHIFT STOP LEVER. There have been other posts on TT talking about this /forum/showthread.php?t=493718&highlight=replace+segment and it is a real problem. All the bearings on mine were gone, and the outer race was just rubbing on the inner race....it explains why I couldn't shift into neutral. I don't have a magnetic oil plug, yet, and so I was lucky that none of the bearings appear to have done any damage. I was able to fish them all out from the oil area in the tranny. Here are some pic: If you have not already done so, please replace the crappy ball bearing style stop lever with the solid roller style from 2007. The new part number is: 2S2-18140-10-00 Here is a picture of my segment. Do you think it needs replacing?

The first one you reference is a guy who kept changing his setup...so I didn't put too much confidence in his recomendations. The second and third ones are 2007....can I use their settings? Just pulled the jets. I had assumed they were all stock, since the rest of the bike is. Come to find out, the main jet is a 150! No wonder why I've been having bad popping on decel and bog off bottom end.

I've searched the jetting database and can't find anything that lines up with my situation. I have a stock 06 YZ450 that has the stock jetting (165 mj and 42 pj). My altitude ranges from about 4,300 feet to 8,000, with most of the time being spent toward the lower end of the range. I mainly ride in temps from 70-90 degrees. The humidity here is very low. Can anyone suggest a good jetting setup for my bike?

I posted in the "General" forum about a recent hard landing I had, and now my bike won't shift into neutral from 1st gear. It was concluded that I must have had a foot on the shifter lever when I landed, and I bent the one side of the shift fork. In order to replace the shift fork, I need to access the transmission. The first step to do this will be to remove the engine from the bike. I have never done this on a dirt bike and I'm looking for any pointers and words of advice from you experts that have done it a thousand times. You know, I want to know the little tricks and secrets you have that will save me time in removing the engine. If anyone cares to give me a tutorial, that is appreciated too. And before you say it, I do have the manual. But I find the narrative and advise on this forum is easier to follow, and more time efficient, than the manual.

I have never done major work on a dirt bike engine, but I have a decent amount of time with car engines. I'm pretty mechanical and this kind of thing does not scare me so I think I'll give it a go. I looked at the manual for this fix and it shows there are 3 shift forks. Given how I landed, would it be possible to say which shift fork is bent before I even take it apart?

I agree. I want to fix it. If you remember, I can't ride for a while so I have time . Plus, it can't cost that much if I do the work myself. I just need a little tutorial from someone who has done it.

So how hard is it to replace the shift fork? Anyone care to give me a tutorial?

About a week ago I was riding a track I've never ridden before. On my second lap around, I forgot about this double and I went way too slow to clear it, but too fast to not hit into the second jump. I ended up landing right into the face of the second jump, bottoming out the suspension, and braking my ankle in the process (but I can say I didn't crash and I rode it out After the "crash" I was able to keep riding and noticed that my transmition no longer wanted to shift into neutral from 1st gear. When trying to shift into neutral from 1st, it is so hard you end up just shifting into second gear. But, I can shift down from 2nd into neutral just fine. Could my hard landing be the reason for my problem? If so, what should I look at or fix? Now that I can't ride for about 6-8 weeks, I have all kinds of time to do repairs!

I thought I did the original fix correctly, but I must have done something wrong. I don't know what I did because I followed the instructions that came with the kit to a T. But the Timesert is a good product and should have worked the first time. I guess it really doesn't matter now because I've done the fix from the backside. This way, the bolt is always pulling against the insert and should, therefore, never come loose. I also used red Locktite this time, something I didn't do last time.

I wanted to give everyone and update. I called a guy here that I found out did a lot of these fixes. He told me that almost every time he does the Timesert from the BACK of the crankcase cover. Since I still had good threads at the back, I decided to give it a try. All you have to do is remove the cover (about an hour for the inexperienced) and put the Timesert in from the back. I still need new clutch and crankcase cover gaskets, so I haven't been able to put it all back together, but here are the pics of the Timersert from the back side.

One more thing, when I drilled out the hole it should have been straight because I bought the little metal tube from Timesert that you hold against the case as you drill to make sure the bit is square with the case.

Thanks for all the comments. As far as it being installed correctly, I'm pretty sure it was. Anyone who has done this fix knows it's not very complicated. As far as only some threads appearing to be damaged, that is just because the aluminum on the "upper" threads was knocked off by the oil cover when it came out. As for the threads being damaged in the aluminum before installing the Timesert, I don't think that was the case either because everything was tight and firm when it was installed. I think KTMKramer might be right about the heat. My engine was still a little warm when changing the oil. I usually change it when the engine is cold. So, if heat really affects these, do you have to wait for the engine to be cold every time to change the oil?

The flange is bent. However, I think it was installed correctly. This is not rocket science. You just tighten it down until the insert driver gets tight then keep turning until it gets loose again. That is straight fromthe instructions. Also, the flange was seated tight to the case. So maybe it bent during removal?

A couple months back I had the oil filter cover bolt stripping problem on my 2006 YZ 450. I used the Time Cert product to fix it. Everything worked great for a couple of months. No issues. Now, the insert has stripped out of the hole for no apparent reason. I was just changing the oil tonight, applying appropriate force to the bolt, and it stripped out. 2 Questions: 1. Why did it strip? Do you think Time Cert will help me out by giving me a new kit to fix this problem? 2. How do I fix this? The hole is now too big for the M6 insert to fit. Should I just go up on size and do it all over again? Does the case right there have enough room to do that? Thanks for any help.