Hydraulic Clutch Availability?
Posted January 06, 2013 - 11:44 AM
I recently lost the last segment of my pinky and ring fingers on my left hand back to the first knuckle.
Don't ask....if you can spell STOOPID you have the answer.
My big worry is that I will not be able to generate sufficient grip on the handlebars to hold on to the bike given that my index and middle fingers of the left hand are almost always committed to clutch work (the stuff we ride is fairly gnarly and technical) and I need both those fingers to work the fairly stiff clutch on my old '04.
SO...my question is...is there any way to convert the clutch to a hydraulic system from the antiquated cable actuated setup so I can re-assign my middle finger to the task of keeping me on the beast...and if so how well do they actually function and how much does it cost.
Clearly spending a lot of money on an 'o4 is not a particularly bright idea....but on the other hand it has a street legal plate that I would never get on a WR again and it has been lowered (I installed a Yamalink) to suit my vertical failings..AND I really like the bike!
Another option I guess would be a Rekluse clutch....but I'm not sure how well they work in tight technical situations...steep uphills over loose baseball to watermelon sized rocks etc.....and of course the cost/maintenance/setup issues would also apply.
Worst case is my riding days are over (I try not to think about that)..next worse case is I have to move to a KTM for a hydraulic clutch, but since the KTM overall height cannot be lowered by means of a "lowering link", I would really like to avoid this, Also...the cost of replacing the bike would be a real issue... plus the additional maintenance associated with the KTMs.
Any thoughts...all comments appreciated...except calling me "stumpy"...my "friends" have beat you to it!
Posted January 06, 2013 - 02:15 PM
Now to your question. No idea about a hydraulic setup. The Rekluse clutches are supposed to be very, very good in the tight and technical stuff. I have friends who use them and prefer them in tighter terrain.
Posted January 06, 2013 - 02:53 PM
Hydraulic clutch would be the Magura. Not sure it will make the pull any lighter on the cable actuated
WRs...I could be wrong but I believe that is the only choice and it'll be around the $400 to $500 mark as well.
Posted January 06, 2013 - 07:28 PM
I run the Rekluse, and they are so incredible I don't like riding without them now. And one of the side benefits of the autoclutch is the incredibly light clutch pull when you do want to use the normal clutch! Way easier than Hydro!!!
Which version of the Rekluse do you have and what are the differences between them (cost, funcion, etc)? I think the more info we can provide travertt the better decision he'll be able to make. For example, the light clutch pull you refered to with the Rekluse version you have sounds exactly like what he needs.
Posted January 06, 2013 - 07:41 PM
Posted January 06, 2013 - 07:57 PM
Posted January 07, 2013 - 06:44 AM
Posted January 07, 2013 - 06:49 AM
Thanks for all the usefull info...much appreciated...I'm feeling a little better now that at least I will be able to continue to ride in the future...once the healing process progresses and the season comes around.
Very good to hear the positive reactions to the Rekluse....and the recommend for the Z Pro Start over the Core EXP (thanks Maniac) is certainly supported by some quick research....my problem with that is putting $800+ into an old '04....but if the option is not riding at all, then I guess the price is right.
Maniac..quick question.... "feathering" the clutch under power (particularly uphill) is something I do a lot of.....and I assume that I would still need to use the clutch lever in these circumstances...you mentioned that the pull is even easier than a hydraulic kit...I don't mean to "grill" you on that point but am I truely looking at a one finger pull that won't cramp up my finger on hour 5 or 6 of the ride?
Hitman hart...is the "hydraulic clutch setup" you're referring to a full hydraulic clutch (Rekluse etc) or just a hydraulic lever kit you installed that connects to the standard clutch assembly via the actuating arm atop the crankcase? How is the lever "pull"....a one finger deal??
JDLowrance...thanks for info on the Magura....like the cost...(found one new on-line for $275 http://www.btosports.com/p/MGHC)...like the simplicity of the conversion...do you have any experience as to the reduction in effort required to pull the lever on the Magura versus the standard cable setup...I guess thats really the key issue for me...being able to move to a one finger clutch control scenario.
Again...thanks for the info...encouraging.
Posted January 07, 2013 - 10:51 AM
My KTM 525EXC was amazingly light and my 2012 WR450F is pretty stiff. The 525 had a true hydraulic clutch in that it used a master and slave cylinders. The Magura for the Jap bikes is a completely different set-up.
I still think the Rekluse would be a beter option as you won,t be using the clutch as often.
Posted January 07, 2013 - 11:22 AM
Posted January 15, 2013 - 01:37 PM
According to the Doc....my fingers are doing extremely well...so I'm keeping them "crossed" that all will be OK...at least the ones that are long enough to cross.
Looks like consus is forget the hydraulic clutch...won't give enough of the type of relief I need, which is significantly easier clutch pull.
So...the Z Pro Rekluse looks to be my option...IF I keep the bike.
Been looking at the middle weights (350cc)...lighter and more nimble, as an option to also reduce the demands on my left hand...also given my "geezer" status this may be better overall...maybe keep me from really hurting my self.
Option 1...the new KTM 350EXC F...from what I've read its the gold standard. Real downside is it appears to be made of gold as well given the $9,600 MSRP (YIKES).. only $200 less and 9lbs lighter than the 500EXC...THAT makes me crazy!
Option 2...Also looked at the Husqvarna TE 310..lots of good press but its really just a bored out (to 302cc) 250...and I expect I will miss the fantastic torque and gobs of power of the 450... the few times that the terrain will actually let me use it. On the plus side...about $2,000 less.
Option 3...Get the Rekluse and just write off the cost as a virtual total loss in terms of re-sale. On the other hand, after a few seasons on one of the other bikes I will have to "write off" a lot more than $800. But on the OTHER hand is my old '04 gonna last a few more years without needing a major engine job...#$%^&*
Hate these no-win decisions....
See you on the trails...I hope
Posted January 15, 2013 - 05:17 PM
Posted January 15, 2013 - 08:12 PM
Posted January 15, 2013 - 08:23 PM
Edited by bougs, January 15, 2013 - 08:23 PM.
Posted January 15, 2013 - 09:26 PM
Posted January 16, 2013 - 02:47 AM
What about adding 6-9mm onto the clutch actuator arm? Quite a bit more leverage and cost effective. The 450 guys may have to chime in here as I'm not sure how much longer you can extend it without running into clearance issues
He's onto something here! The stock clutch actuator arm has a small dog-leg type bend in it, and I usually remove mine and place it in a vise to straighten it out. This makes it slightly longer, which does make the pull easier. That coupled with a new, properly lubed OEM cable, routed properly will make that clutch pull pretty darn easy! Why not start out with this set-up first, and go from there!!
Posted January 16, 2013 - 11:13 PM