Posted December 08, 2012 - 05:46 PM
Does the wr450 only run one oil for engine transmission and clutch?
If so is the motul 5100 ok to run for it?
I just done a service on a crf250 and it ran different oil for transmission and engine and i wondered why they different?
Posted December 08, 2012 - 06:21 PM
Posted December 12, 2012 - 09:06 AM
When it comes time to choose/change the oil, I like to change the oil often.
"Oil is cheap. Engines aren't."
Posted December 19, 2012 - 10:37 PM
Posted December 20, 2012 - 05:43 AM
some popular ones are yamalube, mobil 1 & rotella-t6 (which i use)
it's my opinion that any synthetic with a jaso-ma rating will work well
Posted December 20, 2012 - 10:45 PM
you can review a manual for you bike at http://www.yamaha-mo...ual-for-my-unit . This is Yamaha Motors Australia. If the link does not work go to the home page and use the search feature for "owner's manual". Note pages 3-1 and 3-2 of the manual specify oil changes at 1,000 KM. I personally change my oil every 500 KM and clean my metal filter (better than paper) every 1,000 KM. Page 3-12 says for Canadian bikes use Yamalube 4, SAE10W30 or SAE20W40 or Yamalube 4-R, with a viscosity of SAE10W50. The better oil is Yamalube 4-R. All oils should conform to API service SG type or higher or JASO standard MA.
Using full synthetic is not necessary for your bike. Semi - synthetic is as high tech as you require and will save you a lot of money. Yamalube 4-R SAE10W50 is semi-synthetic oil and retails at $125 USD for a case of 12 one liter bottles. Everyone has some kind of discount available, so the case would probably be cheaper than retail.
The comments about too slick for your clutch for some brands of oil (full synthetic particularly) is a valid concern. Additionaly, REMEMBER, you should change your oil VERY frequently every 500 - 1,000 KM at least. The reality is any API rated oil for motorcycles, changed frequently, will work fine whether it is straight, unmodified petroleum or semi-synthetic based.
Here is a question for you. Yamahalube R is designed to work in your motorcycle by the manufacturer of your motorcycle. Do you think Yamaha told the oil engineer to design a really crappy oil package, so the company would have to honor lots of warranty work and see its reputation destroyed? Answer - highly unlikely.
Posted December 21, 2012 - 11:31 AM
REMEMBER, you should change your oil VERY frequently
This part right here is the most important part... change the oil often and your engine will thank you for it.
Just try to avoid the automotive oils which can in theory shorten the life of the clutch.
For those not wanting to spend $9 a quart on "bike" oil, the Rotella diesel oil as one poster mentioned works very well. $13 a gallon at Walmart. You can change the oil almost 4 times for the price of one change of the "good" bike oil. Less expensive oil inspires folks to change the oil more often so I see that as a good thing.
Posted December 22, 2012 - 11:35 AM
Posted December 27, 2012 - 03:28 AM
I had to put automotive 20w40 in my 400f because of a sump bolt failure and it's all I had lying around and have had clutch drag and sticking issues. So it's getting dumped tomorrow.
Posted December 28, 2012 - 10:58 AM