Help me get over the big logs quickly!
Posted April 23, 2001 - 05:14 PM
Twigs to 8" logs, no problem.
Anything bigger and a 1/3 of the time I make it. Another 1/3 of the time I make it but the bike pops up hard and smashes the twins (if you know what I mean. The other 1/3 of the time I have a spectacular crash. Not good odds!!
Other than going around, what is the proper technique for getting over these 8-14" menaces at speed?
Do I wheelie over? Aim for the top 1/2 of the log with the front tire? Any suggestion for +/- the compression/rebound? What is the correct body position? What is a good attack speed? And finally, how big is too big to attempt at speed with the WR?
Thanks in advance for the suggestions!
[This message has been edited by ecarlson (edited 04-23-2001).]
Posted April 23, 2001 - 09:33 PM
Before you torture yourself, why don't you spend an afternoon practicing the maneuver MANY times until you feel comfortable. Logs are very do-able with practice, as with most anything in life. If this is too cerebral for you guys, just gas it and pucker your a-hole as you go over.
Posted April 23, 2001 - 11:00 PM
as far as bike set up goes ask yourself this;
will your bike chug up to the log on an incline WITHOUT stalling? if not get a flywheel weight.
can you 'fan' the clutch on an even throttle? if not get a juice clutch.
finally, does your front wheel deflect left or right at the slightest excuse (& it's a '98 or '99)?
if it does you've got the mid compression stroke problem with your forks.
the biggest difference was my forks, then the flywheel weight & then finally the juice clutch.
Posted April 24, 2001 - 03:40 AM
Trials experts use both of the brakes against the motor and stand to move their weight to adjust the weight on each wheel. Good enduro riders do a similar thing at speed and have precisely the front , back weight distribution that they want for any situation. Another aspect of log jumping is to pre-jump the obstacle yourself, if you drive up from your knees before the jump there is little body weight on the bike as it attempts to climb the log, again you need to compensate with throttle control and rear brake to stop the lightened rear from spinning out on the front of the log.
If you are serious about big logs at speed, you need to treat it as a skill. Analyse each aspect of the manoever and devise a practice drill for each part seperately. When I am teaching a new skill, I spend a lot of time watching a number of experts. If I can I'll video some good examples and frame by frame them. Some college human movements faculties have computer programs that allow you to determine the optimum body positioning through a sequence and then compare these with the actual positions used by the training athlete. As a coach I found that I could compare the Frame by Frame of two riders and see the difference and adjust accordingly. How far you take it just depends on your motivation level.
P.S. Watch out for low branches when jumping logs and remember it's quicker to clear a log cleanly but slow than to pick up the bike.
If your suspension can absorb a 4 inch log or rock without a ripple at the bars, it will take on the big one better too. It's in the initial compression damping.
Posted April 24, 2001 - 04:52 AM
This is what I do and it may be too slow for racing but it always works for me. As I approach any log that seems to be over 12 to 14 inches, I slow down to first gear applying front brake. When I am about 3 feet from the log but still moving (key), release the front brake, goose the gas and pull back a little. The front end will come up and you will case the tree if it over 12 inches so be ready. When you case it, bring your body forward a little and let the back tire roll over. Make sure you do NOT come to a complete stop before you cross or you will loose your momentum and get stuck on the log. You can praqctice it anywhere. Technique, timing and momentum. I learned on a mtn bike and transfered over to the dirtbike. To this day I an cross bigger logs on my Mtn. bike. Good luck and post on how you make out and what worked for you.
Posted April 24, 2001 - 07:33 AM
There are two basic scenarios:
I. The log is < 10 inches round. Use the "pop over it" technique.
1. Maintain moderately low speed in 2nd gear.
2. A couple of feet before the obstacle, roll off and on the throttle and lean back at the same time to get the front wheel 4-6 inches off the ground.
3. As you strike the obstacle, lean forward slightly so the front doesn't kick up.
4. Stay on the throttle and as the back tire contacts the log and lean back to absorb the compression. This way you won't get bucked off the bike.
5. In the air, roll off the throttle, adjust the angle of the bike if necessary, and let the bike float until you contact the ground. Do not use the "Death grip"! You body will freeze and you will get tossed!
* Make sure you look far enough ahead of the log to ensure you don't case another one on the other side!
II. The log/rock is 10 - 20 inches. Use the "roll over it" technique.
1. Brake hard, get the bike under control and into 1st gear.
2. A foot or two in front of the log, use the same technique to lift the front tire up 6 - 10 inches this time or at least 1/2 the height of the obstacle.
3. Lean forward a lot more this time because the bike will want to go vertical. Ensure you have enough momentum to "get up and over the hump". This is key!
4. This is the hardest part. As the front tire starts to go over (down), neutralize your body position and give it a little throttle. If you have good traction, you should be able to keep it from plating and keep the front tire from "dropping in" on the other side. If you do plate it, the key again is having enough momentum to keep moving.
5. Keep the bike straight, lean back a lot at this point and roll over the other side. The worst thing you can do is put a foot down! Stay on the pegs.
I know it doesn't seem that technical, but I used this technique last weekend to get by a lot of guys that were hung up and stuck on big nasty rocks and made a 2nd place finish in the National H&H. I saved so much energy as well.
I’m not sure where you are, but get out to the woods, and find an assortment of fallen trees. Practice popping an rolling over birch (which are very slippery), pines and dead wood.
Lastly, from now on, every time you come to a log crossing, just keep on thing in mind:
"Pop it" or "Roll it".
That way you use the same technique all the time and just get better and better.
Canadians ride hard too!
1999 WR 400
2001 YZ 426
National H&H and WORCS
Posted April 24, 2001 - 01:56 PM
01 Yamaha Raptor
99 Kawasaki ZRX1100
99 Yamaha Warrior
Posted April 24, 2001 - 06:10 PM