Which oversized brake rotor kit?


37 replies to this topic
  • CaptainKnobby

Posted November 15, 2012 - 12:30 PM

#1

I am thinking of getting a oversized brake rotor kit and was wondering which of these two would be best for the money and if anyone has had experience whith either of them.

http://www.ebay.com/...806e927&vxp=mtr



http://www.amazon.co...brake rotor kit

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted November 15, 2012 - 06:53 PM

#2

I just went ahead and got the EBC oversized brake rotor kit(280mm). I couldn't
find anything out about the Profactory moto-x one. The EBC one gave good reviews
So now I should be able to break way later heading into the first turn.

Cant wait to get it put on and try it out.

  • blackie107

Posted November 15, 2012 - 09:37 PM

#3

I installed the EBC rotor(280mm) using stock honda pads, and It works very very well. $195.00 from RM.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted November 16, 2012 - 06:40 AM

#4

I got a pretty good buy on the EBC rotor kit off Amazon.com. it was $178.00
from a place called AMS discount....(aka) American motor sports discount.com

Then you. Could get $30.00 dollars off as a gift you applied for a amazon
Credit card...so I filled out the application and it was approved and when I
Added the brake rotor kit to cart the $30.00 dollar gift was applied and
I got the brake rotor kit for $148.00 with free shipping.

If anyone isnlooking for one of these rotor kits and is wanting to save some
money then go to amazon and do it thisway to save $30.00

  • STR8SHOOTR

Posted November 17, 2012 - 02:52 AM

#5

I've been shopping with Amazon for a long time. The shipping is lighting fast and there customer service is spot on

  • 72degrees

Posted November 17, 2012 - 04:44 AM

#6

I have an EBC oversize rotor (not 'supermoto') on my YZ250. Works well but the carbon steel rusts amazingly quickly if not dried off well before storing the bike after washing it. The ABE "alloy steel" Supermoto rotor on my YZ450F doesn't seem to be affected in the same way.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted November 17, 2012 - 03:08 PM

#7

I have an EBC oversize rotor (not 'supermoto') on my YZ250. Works well but the carbon steel rusts amazingly quickly if not dried off well before storing the bike after washing it. The ABE "alloy steel" Supermoto rotor on my YZ450F doesn't seem to be affected in the same way.

Guess I will have to remember to wipe the rotor off after every was to keep it from rusting.
shouldn't take an extra minute to do.

  • WouldsAssassin

Posted November 18, 2012 - 10:05 AM

#8

I've been pleased with the Tusk oversized rotor I got from Rocky Mountain.

http://www.rockymoun...Rotor-Kit-Front

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted November 18, 2012 - 06:52 PM

#9

I've been pleased with the Tusk oversized rotor I got from Rocky Mountain.

http://www.rockymoun...Rotor-Kit-Front

Could you tell while riding that when you used the front brake that it grabbed better or had better
Control?... I debated on the tusk one before I found the EBC rotor kit. It should be here by or on
Wednesday.

  • SAthump

Posted November 19, 2012 - 09:21 AM

#10

I'm curious about weight differences between stock and various oversize rotors???

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • WouldsAssassin

Posted November 19, 2012 - 09:47 AM

#11

Could you tell while riding that when you used the front brake that it grabbed better or had better
Control?... I debated on the tusk one before I found the EBC rotor kit. It should be here by or on
Wednesday.


Unfortunately I never rode the bike with the stock front rotor. I have an Aprilia RXV with a jumbo sized Braking front rotor and the control and power of the brakes on the RXV are amazing. Just by looking at the Yamaha I felt that the dinky stock rotor was going to be inadequate and I read a few magazine tests that whined about the brakes. I admit with the Tusk rotor I took the cheap way to better brakes but there is no mistaking the front brake has been pulled. It's a solid piece that looks good and works well. I don't ride motocross but on the trails the brakes WORK. I paired it with a Tusk braided brake line for a WR450 as I plan to install a headlight and so far I couldn't be happier with the "bang for the buck" upgrade. Only time will tell how well it holds up to abuse, but so far so good at 25 hours of use.

Edited by PilotHonda, November 21, 2012 - 10:21 PM.


  • CaptainKnobby

Posted November 27, 2012 - 10:32 AM

#12

Here is my EBC 280mm oversized rotor kit that I installed last week. I also purchased a Braided stainless steel front brake line on it to. the Brake line is by outlaw racing as seems to be a good break line for the price. Only thing was when I tightened the collor nut up at the line as shown in the pic i thought it was tight, i didnt wont to over torque the nut and strip it.

Later that night after i installed it I noticed brake fluid in and around where that nut is(inside the groove that you see in pic). I took a wrench and give it just a tad more torque to stop the leak. Next morning went to check it and still a little leak. Not enough to drip onto the floor but enough to be wet at the groove of the nut. i wiped it off and took a wrench and gave it another bit of torque.

I didnt think these ends had to be so tight,but guess since there is pressure on it from the lever then you must have to get it pretty tight.
checked it again this morning and all was good ....no leak...so maybe it is tight enough now. BTW...the chrome part of the line (like the nut and banjo bolt) doesn't feel like metal but rather like a coating of some sort (like plastic).


Posted Image





Posted Image

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted November 29, 2012 - 09:57 AM

#13

It has been a couple of days now since i tightened up the nut at the braided line and went and checked it a few minutes ago and seen it was still seeping a little fluid from around the nut. The fluid is seeping a tad still in the groove area where the nut goes over the threaded part of the line as you can see in the pic.

Would it be advisable to use some teflon tape on the threaded part to keep the fluid from seeping? Thats bout all I Know to do cause I dont want to tighten the nut anymore cause I'm afraid it will break the nut or strip it.

Has anyone had any issue's like this before? and how did you solve it? this Stainless Steel Braided Front Brake line is an Outlaw racing product



Posted Image

Edited by CaptainKnobby, November 29, 2012 - 09:58 AM.


  • grayracer513

Posted November 29, 2012 - 12:47 PM

#14

The line fitting is probably defective. Isn't most Outlaw stuff Chinese?

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted November 29, 2012 - 02:46 PM

#15

No its not made in China but guess close to it.......Made in Tiawan. I dont know which is worse

I went down in the basement and tookthe line loose at the nut. i wiped it off real good and then took some Teflon tape and and tore it in half (to make a narrower piece) and wrapped it
around the thread male piece. Put the nut back on and noticed right off it was a tighter fit. So maybe this will solve the problem........it seems to be on a whole lot better now .

I did notice when i had the line disconnected that the male end was tappered at the end where it goes into the nut and also the nut on the inside at the back was tappered. Maybe the tappered end at the back of the nut wasnt exactly the same tapper as the male end and tht ws causeing the fluid to seep out (wasnt getting a flush fit).

I will keep an eye On it for a couple of days as see if any leaks and post back with the findings.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 29, 2012 - 04:01 PM

#16

The threads don't seal on that type fitting, the taper does. The tape won't really help.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted November 30, 2012 - 08:17 AM

#17

The threads don't seal on that type fitting, the taper does. The tape won't really help.


Yeah i know .....But I was thinking with the Teflon tape being on the threads it would help keep the fluid from seeping by the threads after the nut was screwed on. .When i put the tape on the threaded male end I started it at the front end (where the taper is),wrapping clockwise. I split the tape in half so it would be narrower. I made about 12 or so passes around the male end making sure the tape was flat and tight.

When I screwed the nut on it started out kinda tight and felt good. I screwed it to the end and it had a good tight fit (better than before without the tape).

I checked it this morning and so far no seepage. Maybe the tape worked and will keep the fluid from bypassing the threads . i pumped the brake lever several times to put some pressure on it. I will check back on it tonight as see if its still holding up.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 30, 2012 - 09:02 AM

#18

Yeah i know .....But I was thinking with the Teflon tape being on the threads it would help keep the fluid from seeping by the threads after the nut was screwed on.


That's like stacking hay bales three high around a tiger cage in case he gets out. Besides, it doesn't address the fluid that would seep between the top of the nut and the stem of the line fitting. The taper has to seal. It's either dirty or defective if it doesn't.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted November 30, 2012 - 09:13 AM

#19

That's pretty good way putting It...LOL I will look at it and keep an eye on it for a couple days. If it still seeps then you are right ....it's probably defective at the taper on the male end. If this doesn't work (The tape) is there any other method you know of that would?

Like putting something else on it or using something else either than tape.....some sort of compound ect...ect.

If not then i just will get me another Brake line ....what brands you recommend or have dealings with?

  • k.g

Posted November 30, 2012 - 09:24 AM

#20

Ride Engineering brake lines are pretty good. I put a HEL on my drz that was pretty cool too. You can even get the banjo fitting anodized any color you want.





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