Clutch advice?


12 replies to this topic
  • DESERTJUL

Posted October 22, 2012 - 04:18 PM

#1

I bought an 06WR450 with a Rekluse. For the most part I like the way the clutch works, except when I have downhill momentum going, very touchy, grabby. I was gonna put the stock clutch back in, which the po gave me with the bike. When I pulled it apart I discovered a notched basket and what looks like a bit too much heat on the inner plates. Frictions still have good surface, but of course wear on the edges of the tabs where they were notching the tangs, and the steels don't appear to be warped. My questions; should I replace the steels even if not warped, what causes heat in this way, have you had good luck in filing the tangs and re-using the basket? I'm a bit cash poor these days and really don't want to have to spend hundreds but I also hate halfassin, I like to do things right the first time and not have to do it again. Btw, I'm running Rotella like Rekluse recommends but I don't know what the po ran. And I did search clutch baskets before I posted this thread. Looks like its time for a fresh one... ;) Heres a few pics:

Posted Image
2012-10-22 002 by DESERTJUL1, on Flickr

Posted Image
2012-10-22 003 by DESERTJUL1, on Flickr

Posted Image
2012-10-22 001 by DESERTJUL1, on Flickr

Edited by DESERTJUL, October 22, 2012 - 05:39 PM.


  • miweber929

Posted October 23, 2012 - 04:44 AM

#2

- File the grooves smooth and you'll get some more life out of your basket, but plan to replace it soon. It's not good practice but will get you by a while.

- Reuse steels if they are still good, you can scotchbrite them a little to see if they are shot or not.

- Heat damage is caused by abuse and/or hard use, depending on your outlook in life. My guess would be a poorly setup and maintained Rekluse from what I see, but any auto clutch is hard on your basket and plates so it may be more "normal" than I'm used to.

Replace your fibers for sure, file the basket and ride is my call.

  • DESERTJUL

Posted April 08, 2016 - 08:08 AM

#3

- File the grooves smooth and you'll get some more life out of your basket, but plan to replace it soon. It's not good practice but will get you by a while.

- Reuse steels if they are still good, you can scotchbrite them a little to see if they are shot or not.

- Heat damage is caused by abuse and/or hard use, depending on your outlook in life. My guess would be a poorly setup and maintained Rekluse from what I see, but any auto clutch is hard on your basket and plates so it may be more "normal" than I'm used to.

Replace your fibers for sure, file the basket and ride is my call.

So, I did, and I did :) Although I never really did get the auto clutch adjusted to my liking so I put the stock clutch back in, I like the feel of a manual clutch. But just recently I started getting slippage. I really didn't put that many miles on it after putting the stock clutch back in, maybe 500 at a guess (no odo), some singletrack, some high speed, some hills. Its worse at higher RPMs so my last ride out I lugged it to keep up til we got to a stopping point and not have to make my ride buddies stop on the trail. It only happened a few times and it seemed like if I stopped it would be ok again when I started back out. It almost seems like its binding but just once in a while. I haven't torn it down yet but I'm guessing that the extra play in the tab to tang area might be part of the problem, or a bearing or pushrod. I'll probably be tearing it down today, or tomorrow if the rain comes and I have a chance to go get muddy on one of my other bikes :) I won't be riding it again til I fix it, either way. I don't want to muddy up my oil and put that crap through my engine. Just thought I'd get some opinions here, couldn't hurt, right? Fingers crossed I don't have to buy a basket and steels, I've been hemmoraging money on everything lately lol



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted April 08, 2016 - 01:57 PM

#4

Using the information in the service manual, determine if the components in question are still within tolerance using a digtial caliper.....more than likely not.

 

1 mm of basket filing is usually maximum.

 

If you re-used steels that are not perfectly smooth, then the clutch will slip.



  • DESERTJUL

Posted April 09, 2016 - 07:43 AM

#5

Using the information in the service manual, determine if the components in question are still within tolerance using a digtial caliper.....more than likely not.

 

1 mm of basket filing is usually maximum.

 

If you re-used steels that are not perfectly smooth, then the clutch will slip.

Haven't torn it down yet, Mud to play in first ;) I will be checking all of the clearances and making sure the steels aren't warped. They didn't appear warped when I first cleaned it all up and put the new frictions in and it worked great for a while. When I cleaned up the basket I didn't see anything on the bosses of the inner hub, might have missed that. I just need to get it apart and check it all out.

 

You mention 1mm of filing. What is the stock width between tangs or how much play between the plate tab and basket tang? I don't see anything in the manual about that, probably cuz its more of a temp fix not a recommended repair lol. The only measurements it mentions are the warp limit and friction thickness.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted April 09, 2016 - 08:31 AM

#6

Haven't torn it down yet, Mud to play in first ;) I will be checking all of the clearances and making sure the steels aren't warped. They didn't appear warped when I first cleaned it all up and put the new frictions in and it worked great for a while. When I cleaned up the basket I didn't see anything on the bosses of the inner hub, might have missed that. I just need to get it apart and check it all out.

 

You mention 1mm of filing. What is the stock width between tangs or how much play between the plate tab and basket tang? I don't see anything in the manual about that, probably cuz its more of a temp fix not a recommended repair lol. The only measurements it mentions are the warp limit and friction thickness.

 

Yeah don't think there's a spec for that gap.



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  • DESERTJUL

Posted April 10, 2016 - 10:54 AM

#7

Yeah don't think there's a spec for that gap.

Yeah, that's what I figure. I'm hoping I find something simple and not so expensive, like a pushrod or bearing. That's my feeling considering the symptoms and recent history. Fingers crossed ;)



  • DESERTJUL

Posted April 18, 2016 - 04:47 AM

#8

Finally found time to take it apart. Didn't see this coming lol

IMG_20160417_184601849_HDR.jpg

Edited by DESERTJUL, April 18, 2016 - 04:56 AM.


  • toten

Posted April 18, 2016 - 06:16 AM

#9

Ouch, that isn't fun. I hope debris didn't end up elsewhere.



  • DESERTJUL

Posted April 18, 2016 - 08:10 AM

#10

Ouch, that isn't fun. I hope debris didn't end up elsewhere.


It looks like all that's missing is in those 3 little chunks but I'll be flushing my engine by changing the oil several times. There wasn't any pieces on the magnet so far. fingers crossed ;)

  • toten

Posted April 18, 2016 - 08:40 AM

#11

That's aluminum, right? Not like it'll stick to a magnet...



  • DESERTJUL

Posted April 18, 2016 - 01:19 PM

#12

That's aluminum, right? Not like it'll stick to a magnet...


lol duh I believe it is, now that I think about it. Still, I matched up the pieces and it doesn't seem like theres any gaps. The pieces are a bit smoothed off from bouncing around is all.

  • DESERTJUL

Posted April 18, 2016 - 05:24 PM

#13

So now that I'm home I checked, yup its aluminum. So much for catching anything on the plug. Oh well. It really does look like there isn't anything missing from those pieces. All I can do now is hope I'm right.






 
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