WR450F


19 replies to this topic
  • povol

Posted September 15, 2012 - 09:25 AM

#1

Just bought a new 2012 WR450F, checked the forums for info on derestricting the factory settings. Lots of good info, but i didnt get a concensus on what has to be done. My question is, can i simply replace the throttle stop screw and be done if im not looking to get full race potential. or do i have to buy pipe, ecu, tuner tool etc. to make sure the bike is not running to lean or to rich. Im kind of pissed at the whole situation and dont want to have to spend extra money to get what i paid 7k to get. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Let me elaborate. My son is coming home from deployment and he asked me to get his money and go purchase what he had decided on. I kind of feel like Yamaha should be responsible for delivering the bike that they advertise.

  • OLHILLBILLY

Posted September 15, 2012 - 10:55 AM

#2

Replace the throttle stop screw (or just grind the one that's in it down to the proper length), and remove the inner baffle from the muffler and you should be good to go. Bike will still be lean (as all Green Sticker trail bikes are from the factory), and have some flame out issues at low speed, but it will run better than stock. Down side, it will be nowhere near it's potential. Yamaha has done the best it can and still pass EPA regs. If you want a race ready bike off the showroom floor, it's going to have to be Orange (and will cost you $9400)..
The October issue of Dirt Bike magazine has a good write up on unplugging a new WR450F.

Edited by OLHILLBILLY, September 15, 2012 - 10:59 AM.


  • povol

Posted September 15, 2012 - 02:56 PM

#3

like i mentioned, not looking for full race mode, just what was advertised. Will the bike be lean enough to do damage if we go with just the screw and baffle. It is ultimately going to Colorado Springs where he is stationed, and will be riding at anywhere from 4-8 thousand feet

  • Billy450

Posted September 15, 2012 - 09:01 PM

#4

What exactly was it advertised as?

If your worried about it running lean, get a getting kit and jet it correctly, or pay someone to do it and be done with it

  • tomerb

Posted September 15, 2012 - 09:10 PM

#5

Just bought a new 2012 WR450F, checked the forums for info on derestricting the factory settings. Lots of good info, but i didnt get a concensus on what has to be done. My question is, can i simply replace the throttle stop screw and be done if im not looking to get full race potential. or do i have to buy pipe, ecu, tuner tool etc. to make sure the bike is not running to lean or to rich. Im kind of pissed at the whole situation and dont want to have to spend extra money to get what i paid 7k to get. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Let me elaborate. My son is coming home from deployment and he asked me to get his money and go purchase what he had decided on. I kind of feel like Yamaha should be responsible for delivering the bike that they advertise.



You got a Yamaha that the EPA and CARB wants Yamaha to sell. If they don't comply the with EPA and CARB than there will be no WR450s for sale in the USA and Yamaha's have been restricted for years. Someone should have researched it before buying. It can be made to run good for less than $100. Install the GYTR ECU and just run the base map, remove the inter baffle from the muffler and remove the baffles on top of the air box.

  • tomerb

Posted September 15, 2012 - 09:14 PM

#6

What exactly was it advertised as?

If your worried about it running lean, get a jetting kit and jet it correctly, or pay someone to do it and be done with it


The 2012 has fuel injection. So there no jetting kits for a 2012.

  • tomerb

Posted September 15, 2012 - 09:17 PM

#7

And I would like to thank your son for his service!!

  • miweber929

Posted September 16, 2012 - 04:42 AM

#8

I hate to sound like an &%$#@! here (here it goes anyway!!) but welcome to new millennium as EVERY street bike since the mid-80's and every dirt bike since the mid-90's is choked up in some form or another stock. Yes, even your precious KTM's though their numbers are small enough to get away with some things. Thank the EPA and the gov't if you want to be pissed at someone.

That's why we have a huge aftermarket to choose our go-fast parts from. You're lucky, the '12 is east and pretty cheap to uncork in the grand scheme of things.

And FYI, you got the bike Yamaha is advertising.

  • r1alvin

Posted September 16, 2012 - 01:14 PM

#9

Do it right. Buy the competition ecu, tuner, and a pipe and you will be set for life.

  • n16ht5

Posted September 17, 2012 - 08:26 AM

#10

so you dropped all that cash on a brand new bike but won't spend an extra small amount to get it running right?

..

pathetic.

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  • povol

Posted September 17, 2012 - 09:06 AM

#11

so you dropped all that cash on a brand new bike but won't spend an extra small amount to get it running right?

..

pathetic.


Whats pathetic is that you have to. What else is pathetic, is that this is accepted as the " new normal". If they have to restrict it to 50% performance to get it into the country, fine, but they should hand you a screw and an ecu when you buy it. I am in the boat business, maybe i can increase my profits by taking the standard stainless steel prop off of boats and replacing it with a cheap aluminum prop with the wrong pitch. When the customer complains that the boat doesnt perform, i can sell him his prop that he already payed for for 500 dollars. That sound fair ?

  • Grover9876

Posted September 17, 2012 - 03:30 PM

#12

I bought mine right when they came out and had to pay the 8k retail asking price. So take the 1k you saved and buy the ECU and pipe, take it to the dealer and have them load the maps if you don't want to pay the 279 dollars for the tuner, and you will have a ripper for cheaper than I bought mine stock.

  • n16ht5

Posted September 17, 2012 - 06:01 PM

#13

Whats pathetic is that you have to. What else is pathetic, is that this is accepted as the " new normal". If they have to restrict it to 50% performance to get it into the country, fine, but they should hand you a screw and an ecu when you buy it. I am in the boat business, maybe i can increase my profits by taking the standard stainless steel prop off of boats and replacing it with a cheap aluminum prop with the wrong pitch. When the customer complains that the boat doesnt perform, i can sell him his prop that he already payed for for 500 dollars. That sound fair ?


That is also pathetic, but there is no governmental agency saying that you need to put a crappy prop on your boats. Yamaha is out to make money, not friends... the same as all the other big companies. I don't expect anything different.

and above all, I don't buy new bikes or cars.

  • Rocky739

Posted September 18, 2012 - 03:06 PM

#14

Agree with all the others... Yamaha pulls no punches advertising the WR, it's a green sticker legal offroad bike. They also sell the Mods at an incredible low price to tune the bike, 100.00 bucks for a 500.00 ECU seems more than fair! And any Yamaha dealer worth its salt should have a tuner and set it for free or for a few bucks with the ECU purchase..

Buy the GYTR ECU and quiet exuast insert, do the throttle stop mod, pull the airbox baffle, it will cost 150.00 bucks and an hour of your time, way cheaper than modifing a YZ for offroad or buying a euro bike.

I'd trade you any day over seting up a carbed WR!

And let your son know how much we all appericate his sacrifice for our country.

  • povol

Posted September 19, 2012 - 07:08 PM

#15

Agree with all the others... Yamaha pulls no punches advertising the WR, it's a green sticker legal offroad bike. They also sell the Mods at an incredible low price to tune the bike, 100.00 bucks for a 500.00 ECU seems more than fair! And any Yamaha dealer worth its salt should have a tuner and set it for free or for a few bucks with the ECU purchase..

Buy the GYTR ECU and quiet exuast insert, do the throttle stop mod, pull the airbox baffle, it will cost 150.00 bucks and an hour of your time, way cheaper than modifing a YZ for offroad or buying a euro bike.

I'd trade you any day over seting up a carbed WR!

And let your son know how much we all appericate his sacrifice for our country.


Ok, i got the bitching out of my system. Coming home present, ecu. Ordered it a couple of days ago, supposed to be here tomorrow. Pulled the throttle stop screw, dang that thing is long. Throttle doesnt seem to snap back very well, is there an adjustment that goes along with taking out the throttle stop. took out peashooter i think.lol Probably going to go ahead and get a tuner for his birthday, One question, when changing the ecu, should i disconnect the battery.


Thanks man

  • WouldsAssassin

Posted September 19, 2012 - 07:12 PM

#16

You didn't mention it but it is important to replace the long screw with a short screw. It plugs the hole in that you just opened up in the throttle body.


Always a good idea to remove all sources of electrical power before replacing the ECU.

  • povol

Posted September 19, 2012 - 07:21 PM

#17

You didn't mention it but it is important to replace the long screw with a short screw. It plugs the hole in that you just opened up in the throttle body.


Always a good idea to remove all sources of electrical power before replacing the ECU.


Picking up new ecu tomorrow, short screw is supposed to come with it. Thanks for the reminder though, at my age, memory is not a strong point.

  • WouldsAssassin

Posted September 19, 2012 - 08:18 PM

#18

Cheers.

  • povol

Posted September 22, 2012 - 12:59 PM

#19

Throttle stop screw changed, pipe insert removed, new GYTR ecu installed, damn !!!! this thing is stout. Still doesnt start right off, but runs like a striped ass ape. Will give it time to break in like Thumper Talk gurus advise and see if that helps. Hopefully that will help finding neutral as well. I think he will be happy. Tuner box for Christmas and should be done. Found a woods map that should suit him. I asked in another thread where the tuner plug was, and someone said in the air box. I do not see it. Im wondering if its one of the capped plugs, { there are 2} that is under the seat that wasnt routed into the airbox when assembled.

Thanks everyone

Edited by povol, September 22, 2012 - 01:00 PM.


  • Dougie64

Posted September 23, 2012 - 06:26 AM

#20

http://extranet.kone...0F 2012 SIG.pdf

Scroll down to the bottom page, if it isn't in that location then it may not have been routed correctly like you said, but that's where it is on my 2012




 
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