Hi all,
I have a 2004 Suzuki DR-Z 125 I bought from a guy who let it sit for the last 3 years. I took apart the carb last night and it was all gummed up inside. So I carefully cleaned it all out, jets and all passages. But, when I put it back on the bike, the float bowl will not fill up with gas when I turn the petcock on. I took it apart again and took off the float bowls and it seems like the Float Needle Valve Assembly is frozen and simply not letting any gas into the bowl no matter what.

I want to replace it, so I have ordered a carb kit from the dealer. My problem is I don't know how the needle valve assembly comes out and I don't want to break anything. Does it simply pull out with fingertip pressure? Or, does it screw out? I assume from looking at the schematic of the carb that there is also an o-ring inside as well.

Any help would be appreciated. I'm kind of waiting to hear from some people before I try and pull that thing out.
Thanks!

The actual needle pulls out with finger pressure.  I bet if you pulled it out and cleaned it up with q tips you would find you didnt need a carb kit.  The needle is just stuck closed

 TWOWHEELTOM, on 15 August 2012 - 12:41 PM, said:

Thanks, I'm going to give it a try tonight.

 TWOWHEELTOM, on 15 August 2012 - 12:41 PM, said:

Little more help as I just ran out into the garage to give it a try. Does the tiny little pin that goes up and down actually pull out of the larger brass looking cylinder? Or does the whole thing come out. Also, is that larger brass cylinder (that it is sitting in) simply pulled out or is it screwed in?

The needle just slides up and down in the brass.  Thats what shuts the fuel off when the floats start floating.  The brass part is usually pressed in.  alot of times there is a rubber oring on the outside of the brass.  It just presses in and helps seal.

 TWOWHEELTOM, on 15 August 2012 - 03:50 PM, said:

UPDATE: Tom, just wanted to thank you for you help. The carb kit came in today and I put on the new float valve and what do you know...bowl filled with gas and it fired up! On a side note, I did soak the old needle valve overnight in AeroKroil and the pin finally released from the brass valve portion, but it still does not slide smoothly. For $32 for the carb kit the new one works so much smoother and the $32 was worth the peace of mind. It still is a little hard to start cold and I have to hold the throttle a bit for several minutes or else it will die, but once it is warmed up it rides good and then starts with one kick. I think I may have to pull the carb off again and take a look at the pilot jet to see if it is still a little clogged. Also, I've been reading on this forum about the idle screw and yes, mine still has the plug. I may have the nerve to try and drill it out so I can adjust that. I hope that helps with the cold starting.

Re jetting and getting access to the screw will solve your cold starting issues!  If you have gone deep enough to replace your need and seat, the rest is easy!

Tomorrow I'm going to pull the carb off again and try to fix the hard/cold starting. I need some advice on what I did so far to see if anyone thinks I have missed something. Basically, the bike is next to impossible to start without spraying some starting fluid into the carb, and then when it does kick over it dies almost immediately (choke is no help at all - I have a better chance of starting it without the choke) unless I hold the throttle at about 1/3 for at least 3 minutes, then I ride it. Once I ride it the bike is flawless, no hicups or dead spots or hesitations, great throttle response. Then when I come to a stop it idles fine and if I shut it off it starts again with no choke and one kick! But, let it sit for a few hours and it can take me a half an hour to start it before I give up and spray it with starting fluid!

History: bought a 2004 DRZ 125 that had been sitting for 3 years and would not start. I pulled off the carb and cleaned the following...
In the Float Bowl...

• Replaced the Needle Valve because it was stuck closed and starving the bowl of fuel. (this basically fixed the no start problem)
  
• Cleaned the Main Jet
  
• Cleaned the Pilot Jet

In the Carb Throat...

• Cleaned the "Main Air Jet"
  
• Cleaned teh "Pilot Air Jet"

I missed...

• Cleaning the "Needle Jet" (I think that is what it is called...the one that looks like a long needle and has a big spring around it and is attached to the throttle cable when first taking the carb off the bike).
  
• My Fuel/Pilot screw still has the brass plug, so I did not touch it. If I drill it out and remove the screw, o-ring and spring is it possible there is varnish or gum from the old bad gas causing all my problems. Or, is this just a screw to adjust how rich the gas mixture is and bad gummed up gas can not affect this screw?

Basically, I was hoping to hear back on whether or not anything I may have missed would cause such hard starting. Please any help before I take it apart again. I want to get it right this time.

go up one size on the pilot and dig/drill out the cap over that air screw.  Yes you could have some crud in under the screw. best to take it completely apart and clean everything then blow it out with compressed air.
There is a diaphragm mounted on the side of the carb under a cover, take that apart and double check that it's ok and be sure not to damage it with the compressed air or cleaning fluids. you can read in the vintage forum about folks soaking carbs in Pinesol to clean them.  It works ok .  I'm more a fan of an ultra sonic cleaner but you probably don't have access to one.

 BruceD_500, on 19 August 2012 - 05:02 AM, said:

Thanks for your advice. I'm going to do exactly that. But, in case you havent' noticed, this is my first time doing any carb work myself...I've actually found it pretty easy and enjoyable. However, I don't know what the next size up is on the Pilot Jet. If my Pilot Jet is stock, what is the next size up? Also, where is a good place to purchase one? Is there a certain brand name I should stick with?

 JeffGolem, on 20 August 2012 - 01:28 PM, said:

I just jumped online now and dig some digging of my own. It looks like the OEM carb is a Mikuni VM22 and the Pilot Jet size is 17.5  and the next size up is a 20  Is that accurate? Also, there is also something called the Pilot air jet that sits in the carb throat. Does that need to be changed out at the same time for a larger one too?

 JeffGolem, on 20 August 2012 - 01:49 PM, said:

Just the pilot jet an 20 sounds about right. any dealership can get that jet from someplace . There are a few different styles of Mikuni pilot jets . take yours to the dealer and get one that looks the same. Or just order it right here on ThumperTalk from the online store on the home page you might find that it's a few $.0 cheaper ?? or e-bay

UPDATE: To all that helped me. Thank you again!
I finally got the right Pilot Jet in the mail today.
In case this helps anybody else in the future. I have a 2004 DR-Z 125 that was hard to start. I drilled out the fuel screw. 1/8" drill bit, put a piece of tape 1/8" onto the drill bit so as not to go too far in. Then I tapped in a machine screw about 1/8" and pulled out...the plug came out really easy. I turned in the screw until it stopped and I counted that the factory setting was at 1-1/2 turns out. I then srewed it out, taking care to account for the spring and metal washer. Then, I cleaned out the opening with carb cleaner and put back the screw and turned it all the way in, then backed it out 2-1/2 turns out. Then I installed my new pilot jet. The stock OEM carb on the bike is a Mikuni VM20SS with the stock pilot jet being 17.5. I went up one size to a 20. This, combined with backing out the fuel screw as advised by others to 2-1/2 out.......the bike started on the second kick!!! I used to have to kick it about a hundred times, then give up and spray starting fluid and hold the throttle about half way until the bike warmed up. Not anymore! Now the bike is ready for the wife to ride!
Thank you all again for all your advice and help. Just wanted to post this follow up as a thank you.
Jeff

 JeffGolem, on 02 September 2012 - 11:30 PM, said:

Oh, sorry. One more thing. The pilot jet that fits this carb/bike is VM28/486 and the size I used is #20, which is one larger than the stock #17.5