Jump to content

  • Follow us:

  • Facebook
  • YouTube
  • Twitter
  • Google+
  • Instagram
  • RSS Feed
  • Google+





Related Reviews

Yamaha WR450F 2012


Last review by Ptch5636
* * * * -


Related Garage

2012_Yamaha_WR_450F.jpg

Yamaha WR450F (2012)


Owner: Ptch5636
Added on October 02, 2016
Photo
* * * * * 1 votes

2012 WR450 Starting woes

Yamaha WR450F 2012


500 replies to this topic
  • mch

    TT Silver Member

591 posts
Location: Nevada
Garage View Garage

Posted October 22, 2013 - 06:56 PM


Thanks I put in a charger plug right next to the programing plug. So I can plug the 12 volts into that plug and get 12V for the programer.

Do you have any pictures of this?  I'm still trying to picture what type of connection is used to hook the analyzer up to 12v.

 

Thanks



  • boston460

    TT Member

54 posts
Location: Australia

Posted October 23, 2013 - 03:19 AM


Do you know where I can get the WR cable for the stand alone tool without buying the second unit ?

OR

Would you be willing to figure out the pin out for the SYM connector and share it with us ?


Hi MidlifeCrisisGuy
If you are still after the pin out for the SYM plug.
Holding the male plug on your bike with the clip on top going from left to right,
pin 1 goes to pin 5 on the D-sub plug
pin 2 goes to pin 9 on the D-sub plug
pin 3 goes to pin 8 on the D-sub plug
Hope this helps and make sense


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

    TT Platinum Member

1,872 posts
Location: Other

Posted October 23, 2013 - 01:48 PM


Hi MidlifeCrisisGuy
If you are still after the pin out for the SYM plug.
Holding the male plug on your bike with the clip on top going from left to right,
pin 1 goes to pin 5 on the D-sub plug
pin 2 goes to pin 9 on the D-sub plug
pin 3 goes to pin 8 on the D-sub plug
Hope this helps and make sense


Awesome. Thanks !

  • vlxjim

    TT Bronze Member

343 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted October 24, 2013 - 07:45 PM


Just got my FI diagnostic controller (that was fast). Bump up C1 to 15, You can smell the difference. Boy can you feel the difference. The snap off idle is huge. Warm startup just hit the button and she lights. Idle is set at 1950 rpm's. Worked out Great ,Thanks to all that helped out.


  • turbomart, MidlifeCrisisGuy and dbcon like this
  • Like This

  • JDLowrance

    TT Silver Member

594 posts
Location: California

Posted October 24, 2013 - 07:51 PM


Any of you guys that have done this willing to loan out the FI module?



  • vlxjim

    TT Bronze Member

343 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted October 25, 2013 - 03:12 PM


If you live anywhere near Santa Clarita I can hook you up? Meaning you can stop by and we can adjust it. I'm thinking a bump of 15 is like going two up on the pilot. You can take it for a ride and see if we need to bump it up or down by 5 or so.



  • vlxjim

    TT Bronze Member

343 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted October 25, 2013 - 03:16 PM


One thought is if you already have a GYTR programmer is to cut the plug off of it and reattach a new generic three pin plug. Do the same on the FI diagnostic tool. Install the female of that generic three pin plug to the other end of the plug you cut off the GYTR programmer and use it as an adapter for both.



  • JDLowrance

    TT Silver Member

594 posts
Location: California

Posted October 25, 2013 - 06:56 PM


If you live anywhere near Santa Clarita I can hook you up? Meaning you can stop by and we can adjust it. I'm thinking a bump of 15 is like going two up on the pilot. You can take it for a ride and see if we need to bump it up or down by 5 or so.

 

I'm in Redondo Beach...I frequently ride Rohwer and Gorman. Out of town for a month but when I return I'd love to take you up on your offer. Maybe go for a ride after.

 

Thanks!


Edited by JDLowrance, October 25, 2013 - 06:57 PM.


  • vlxjim

    TT Bronze Member

343 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted October 25, 2013 - 07:31 PM


Here is the photos of using my charge plug to power the FI unit. I also have a wall wart to power it off AC if the battery was dead.

 

 

10485301174_39f702925f_c.jpg

 

10485289765_6d44abd920_c.jpg

 

10485470623_e4ece25426_c.jpg



  • Ride-n-Hard

    TT Bronze Member

412 posts
Location: California

Posted October 27, 2013 - 07:41 PM


Wr party at vixjim's place(g)

Edited by Ride-n-Hard, October 27, 2013 - 07:42 PM.


  • JDLowrance

    TT Silver Member

594 posts
Location: California

Posted October 27, 2013 - 08:10 PM


Wr party at vixjim's place(g)

 In!



  • vlxjim

    TT Bronze Member

343 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted October 27, 2013 - 08:23 PM


I had some time to play with it some more. Got her hot shut her down started first hit each time.  Grabbed the front brake till it stalled, lit right back up each time. One time I stalled the starter would not turn her over. It acted like it was stuck at top dead center. I had to kick her just a half kick hit the button and she started right up. It started a few more time perfect before I put her away. I just don't get the part were the starter was stuck. I can't believe that the GYTR comp idle is so lean. They should include this setting in the GYTR programer. The dealers don't even know what to do. This thread should be Pinned.


Edited by vlxjim, October 28, 2013 - 07:30 AM.

  • turbomart and MidlifeCrisisGuy like this
  • Like This

  • mch

    TT Silver Member

591 posts
Location: Nevada
Garage View Garage

Posted October 28, 2013 - 09:33 AM


I had some time to play with it some more. Got her hot shut her down started first hit each time.  Grabbed the front brake till it stalled, lit right back up each time. One time I stalled the starter would not turn her over. It acted like it was stuck at top dead center. I had to kick her just a half kick hit the button and she started right up. It started a few more time perfect before I put her away. I just don't get the part were the starter was stuck. I can't believe that the GYTR comp idle is so lean. They should include this setting in the GYTR programer. The dealers don't even know what to do. This thread should be Pinned.

 

I get that quit often.  When I stop cranking, it appears to be stopped at top dead center and the starter isn't strong enough to push past it.



  • Corkster

    TT Bronze Member

236 posts
Location: Australia

Posted October 28, 2013 - 12:20 PM


I get that quit often.  When I stop cranking, it appears to be stopped at top dead center and the starter isn't strong enough to push past it.

x2



  • boston460

    TT Member

54 posts
Location: Australia

Posted October 28, 2013 - 01:03 PM


I get that quit often. When I stop cranking, it appears to be stopped at top dead center and the starter isn't strong enough to push past it.


I have the same thing happen.

  • vlxjim

    TT Bronze Member

343 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted October 28, 2013 - 01:16 PM


Also make sure that the nut for the stater cable is tight. Mine was not tight. Not sure if it will make a difference or not. I had and have other Yamaha that were not tight and it did help out.


Edited by vlxjim, October 28, 2013 - 03:40 PM.


  • scott525

    TT Member

81 posts
Location: Georgia

Posted October 28, 2013 - 03:39 PM


So this tuner is just for the FI, of is it the GYTR programer for the ECU.

I just got a 12' and I am in the process of getting parts together.

 

Also,how often will someone use the programer?



  • vlxjim

    TT Bronze Member

343 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted October 28, 2013 - 04:09 PM


The GYTR programer is to load fuel and timing maps into the ECU. It will also show you RPM's, temps and a few more things. But it will not allow you to set the idle fuel amount. That what the FI diagnostic tool is used for. It will set the CO values (idle fuel amount) and show diagnostics codes. Most of the dealers do not have the ability to hook up the F I diagnostic tool to the WR or YZ's. This is where this thread comes in. For like $88 you can own the F I diagnostic tool and make the adjustments yourself. It's definitely worth the money for the performance you get. If you were to take a carbureted bike to the dealer they would charge more than this just to change out the jets on your bike. The great thing is you do not have to remove the throttlebody to do any of this work just plug-in make the adjustments and you're good to go, and you wont even get your hands dirty.


Edited by vlxjim, October 28, 2013 - 04:11 PM.


  • scott525

    TT Member

81 posts
Location: Georgia

Posted October 28, 2013 - 04:56 PM


Great explanation!



  • cwallershasta

    TT Bronze Member

177 posts
Location: Utah

Posted October 29, 2013 - 12:32 PM


I had a hard time starting mine after a somewhat recent valve adjustment that included a 165 shim on an intake valve. We hook the tuner to it at the shop and discovered I had 174 hours on it. Probably time for new valves.







Related Content

Forums
Photo

New '11 WR450 or '12WR450 by new605guy


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Yamaha   WR 400/426/450
  • Hot  76 replies
Forums
Photo

2012 wr450 plastics by Fvmcboy99


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Yamaha   WR 400/426/450
  • 3 replies
Forums
Photo

2012 WR450 IMS fuel tank by Dave WR450


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Yamaha   WR 400/426/450
  • Hot  30 replies
Forums
Photo

2012 wr450f Idle issue by WeekendWarriorz


Dirt Bike   Dirt Bike Technical Forums   Intake - Jetting / Fuel Injection
  • 0 replies
Reviews

Yamaha WR450F 2012 by ThumperTalk


Yamaha WR450F 2012
  • * * * * -
  • 42 reviews
  • Last review by Ptch5636
  • On October 02, 2016

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.