Hey, picked up this beastie in a trade deal this morning. It backfired and lit the air filter on fire! scared the owner so he parked it... Any advice for me? I assume the timing may have been off to cause that? This is my first ATK so any and all advice is appreciated!!
new to me '94 604 ATK es/ds, any advice?
Started by
pbgunrunner1
, Aug 08 2012 05:13 PM
5 replies to this topic
Posted 08 August 2012 - 08:51 PM
94-95 models are the first generation of the Utah bikes and they're getting hard to find these days. "Beast" labels that bike perfectly--man they are HUGE!! Great bikes though! There are 3 XR600's and 1 XR650 in the group I ride with and I wouldn't' trade my 94 for any of them 
The Rotax is an incredible engine they are very reliable and easy to work on. I would start by replacing the timing belt now as it is recommended that they be replaced every season. Having one snap will result in a repair cost that greatly outweighs the value of the bike. Also take the time to adjust the valves--the manual calls for .002" which is too tight. A tight .004 is a popular setting
Also pull the forks apart and clean them and change the oil. That particular WP didn't have a long production run and internal parts are pricey and anything more than seals will take some time to track down.
Keith @ www.americandirtbike.com and Lee @ the ATK factory in Utah are great dudes to talk to about this bike and they can help you track down parts if they don't already have them on the shelf. Motoxotica and Ron Woods racing are another good place to find parts. Head over to http://atkmotorsports.com/atkbb/ there's a nice community there along with a classified section.
Post up or PM me when you're ready for maintenance I have a few links that will help you time the engine (when changing the belt) and I can also talk you though changing the oil.
Anyway hope that helps. Its always nice to see another ATK guy on the board.
PS I had a 560 (same motor basically) backfire and catch the filter on fire as well--not sure why it happened but any 4T can do that so I wouldn't assume its a Rotax thing.
The Rotax is an incredible engine they are very reliable and easy to work on. I would start by replacing the timing belt now as it is recommended that they be replaced every season. Having one snap will result in a repair cost that greatly outweighs the value of the bike. Also take the time to adjust the valves--the manual calls for .002" which is too tight. A tight .004 is a popular setting
Also pull the forks apart and clean them and change the oil. That particular WP didn't have a long production run and internal parts are pricey and anything more than seals will take some time to track down. Keith @ www.americandirtbike.com and Lee @ the ATK factory in Utah are great dudes to talk to about this bike and they can help you track down parts if they don't already have them on the shelf. Motoxotica and Ron Woods racing are another good place to find parts. Head over to http://atkmotorsports.com/atkbb/ there's a nice community there along with a classified section.
Post up or PM me when you're ready for maintenance I have a few links that will help you time the engine (when changing the belt) and I can also talk you though changing the oil.
Anyway hope that helps. Its always nice to see another ATK guy on the board.
PS I had a 560 (same motor basically) backfire and catch the filter on fire as well--not sure why it happened but any 4T can do that so I wouldn't assume its a Rotax thing.
Edited by Rot Box, 08 August 2012 - 08:55 PM.
Posted 09 August 2012 - 09:17 AM
Filter usually catch fire because someone use gas to clean it. Might be the case here. Real hard to get your timing off. Check and make sure the coutershaft sprocket is tight on the output shaft. Some brands do not fit well and will fark up the the output shaft, you don't want that. And yes, change the timing belt now, real cheap insurance and EZ to do. The rest is very solid. make sure the clutch is adjusted at the motor as per manual. It is an odd ball but works fine if setup correctly.
Posted 09 August 2012 - 05:49 PM
thx for the info! Anyone sumo one? I think itd be a blast on sticky street rubber! Oh, i screwed up, its a 605...
Posted 22 August 2012 - 06:19 PM
Rot Box, on 08 August 2012 - 08:51 PM, said:
94-95 models are the first generation of the Utah bikes and they're getting hard to find these days. "Beast" labels that bike perfectly--man they are HUGE!! Great bikes though! There are 3 XR600's and 1 XR650 in the group I ride with and I wouldn't' trade my 94 for any of them
The Rotax is an incredible engine they are very reliable and easy to work on. I would start by replacing the timing belt now as it is recommended that they be replaced every season. Having one snap will result in a repair cost that greatly outweighs the value of the bike. Also take the time to adjust the valves--the manual calls for .002" which is too tight. A tight .004 is a popular setting Also pull the forks apart and clean them and change the oil. That particular WP didn't have a long production run and internal parts are pricey and anything more than seals will take some time to track down.
Keith @ www.americandirtbike.com and Lee @ the ATK factory in Utah are great dudes to talk to about this bike and they can help you track down parts if they don't already have them on the shelf. Motoxotica and Ron Woods racing are another good place to find parts. Head over to http://atkmotorsports.com/atkbb/ there's a nice community there along with a classified section.
Post up or PM me when you're ready for maintenance I have a few links that will help you time the engine (when changing the belt) and I can also talk you though changing the oil.
Anyway hope that helps. Its always nice to see another ATK guy on the board.
PS I had a 560 (same motor basically) backfire and catch the filter on fire as well--not sure why it happened but any 4T can do that so I wouldn't assume its a Rotax thing.
The Rotax is an incredible engine they are very reliable and easy to work on. I would start by replacing the timing belt now as it is recommended that they be replaced every season. Having one snap will result in a repair cost that greatly outweighs the value of the bike. Also take the time to adjust the valves--the manual calls for .002" which is too tight. A tight .004 is a popular setting
Also pull the forks apart and clean them and change the oil. That particular WP didn't have a long production run and internal parts are pricey and anything more than seals will take some time to track down. Keith @ www.americandirtbike.com and Lee @ the ATK factory in Utah are great dudes to talk to about this bike and they can help you track down parts if they don't already have them on the shelf. Motoxotica and Ron Woods racing are another good place to find parts. Head over to http://atkmotorsports.com/atkbb/ there's a nice community there along with a classified section.
Post up or PM me when you're ready for maintenance I have a few links that will help you time the engine (when changing the belt) and I can also talk you though changing the oil.
Anyway hope that helps. Its always nice to see another ATK guy on the board.
PS I had a 560 (same motor basically) backfire and catch the filter on fire as well--not sure why it happened but any 4T can do that so I wouldn't assume its a Rotax thing.
Posted 23 August 2012 - 10:26 AM
nitrojoe, on 22 August 2012 - 06:19 PM, said:
could you fill us in on changing the oil? i just picked up a 1995 atk 605 and dont have a manual yet so im not entirely sure on the oil changing procedure on this bike
The way I do it (this might differ from the manual slightly) is:
1. Remove engine oil drain bolt. This has a 17mm head and it threads in horizontally just below and in front of the countershaft sprocket. The drain bolt is NOT under the engine its at the side on the bottom.
2. Remove the oil hose where it connects to the Y section in frame. This will drain the oil reservoir move the hose around to help drain oil from the hose itself. Unlike other makes there is no screen in the frame so don't worry about removing the larger fitting.
3. Remove the oil filter housing (three allen bolts) and filter.
4. Let everything drain completely.
Adding oil:
1. install drain plug and oil hose. Soak a new oil filter in oil reinstall.
2. Add roughly 1.5 quarts to the frame. This will fill the frame pretty much all the way to the top however this is not enough oil!
3. Start the bike and let it pump the oil though the system. After about a minute it should be ready to top off with additional oil. I think mine holds around 2.2-2.5 quarts total.
Others please chime in if you have anything to add. This is the way I do it--it is not gospel.
Hope this helps now post some pics of your 95!
Edited by Rot Box, 23 August 2012 - 10:27 AM.
