Posted 08 August 2012 - 04:25 PM
Posted 08 August 2012 - 04:36 PM
As for the plastic fork bullets you see them use to install the seals you dont need them the trick if you do the seals wap the area with duct tape so the seal wont hang up.
For the seal driver tool get some PVC pipe cut it in half and use that for a seal instlaller.
I used a drift punch for years just take your time tap down slide to side.
I always tear the forks all the way down and clean all the crude out of them you see what I mean there most of the time a resedue in them they sell a spray for cleaning forks works great also has a good smell to it also.
Edited by marv02, 08 August 2012 - 04:39 PM.
Posted 08 August 2012 - 04:59 PM
Posted 10 August 2012 - 06:15 AM
Posted 10 August 2012 - 06:49 AM
Don't use tape. The plastic bag the seal comes in is perfect for the job. Use a little Vasaline or Trans Gel.
The complication with the twin chamber fork is the process of bleeding the inner cartridge. The manual is, um, a bit vague about it. Then, on reassembly, there is a very confusing bit of advice in the book about making sure there's a gap between the damper rod jam nut and the rebound adjuster/base plug assembly. Here's some details on both items:
Bleeding the Cartridge
Base bolt/jam nut clearance
Posted 11 August 2012 - 07:28 PM
But I never heard untill now the Plastic bag trick I use that next time I do seals.
I also use some fork oil on the tubes as I slide the new seals on to help side over easy.
I also use Maxima Suspension Clean it in a spray can works great to clean out the forks and spray things off as you put back together.
Edited by marv02, 11 August 2012 - 07:30 PM.
Posted 13 August 2012 - 07:12 AM
Posted 13 August 2012 - 08:44 AM