Removing headlight, electrical issues?


8 replies to this topic
  • upnorthbacon

Posted August 08, 2012 - 03:31 PM

#1

So what's the final answer, will removing my headlight and taillight on my 2011 cause me to have electrical issues? I've heard people talking about "floating the ground" and that removing it will run the battery dead or ruin the stator? I want to run a number plate so if the consensus is it will cause problems, can I simply run a 12v resistor that draws power equal to a 35 watt headlight? If so can someone with experience in electronics suggest a resister and what ohm etc I should use?

  • Bandit9

Posted August 08, 2012 - 07:49 PM

#2

Both Navaho and I run it w/o issues. My 06 didn't have issues either. If it cooks the Shorai on the 09, then I will do the stator rectifier/regulator ground float convert to all DC mod.

I have a hard time with crushing headlights, so now I leave them off unless DS riding.

  • upnorthbacon

Posted August 09, 2012 - 07:27 AM

#3

Mines a 2011 what year number plate do I use and will a yz rear fender bolt up and if so what year as well?

  • Bandit9

Posted August 09, 2012 - 07:38 AM

#4

I just removed lights, still have headlight shell and rear fender.

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  • upnorthbacon

Posted August 10, 2012 - 02:41 PM

#5

Well I'm going to run mine without headlight and tailight. I removed the taillight and would like to find out if a standard yz450 from a 2009 or similar will fit and still be able to use my catch tank? I just want to keep the stock rear fender along with the headlight to put back on when I eventually sell my bike. I fabbed up a steel bracket to hold the computer and ignition switch on the bars. It sticks up higher than I would have liked and I'm going to re-work it and put a steel bar around the front to protect it from a crash if I hit my chest protector or helmet on it. I threw my son's Xr80 number plate on until mine arrives from ebay. I still have to fab up a bracket to run the number plate when it arrives. I also am going to get some longer bolts for the handlebar clamps, I probably had more than enough room but just being extra cautious. I still have to mount my digital temp gauge as well. I accidently put a ding on the top of the darn thing when I was finish grinding it, ugh!!! I'm also going to rig up the top plastic brake line holder so it keeps the line out away from the number plate, the last thing I want to do is catch it on the computer when the forks compress and lose my brake line!

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  • upnorthbacon

Posted August 10, 2012 - 02:46 PM

#6

Steel round bar will go here, you get the idea. Any thoughts on this setup?

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  • Bandit9

Posted August 10, 2012 - 09:47 PM

#7

Looks good to me.

  • mc1hd

Posted August 14, 2012 - 07:02 AM

#8

Your mount looks good but the front brake line could be a problem. Under full compression the brake line may wrap around your mount when coming back down on rebound. Shorter brake line would cure this.

  • upnorthbacon

Posted August 16, 2012 - 03:20 PM

#9

Your exactly right about the brake line. What I ended up doing was reconfiguring the mount and drilling new holes to move it back towards the gas tank. Now there's no way the brake line can catch it. I welded on the bar and filled the old holes but it looks a little crappy. I used some bedliner paint to hide the imperfections and it works great, but doesn't look the best. Either way I'm happy now and can swap back and forth between the number plate and headlight. I ended up drilling and tapping a hole on the top clamp to mount the numberplate like factory.




 
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