This unit is the third one I've installed and I cannot (for the life of me) to get it to work.  I"ve got 7-10 coils around the thinnest part of the plug wire.  This is driving me nuts since I'd like to set idlle speed right - always stalling in the woods during enduros and my bike is horrible to start warm.

I'm checking valves, throwing in clean air filter but I'm close to wits end.  I'm fighting the bike continuously which is killing my race performance.  Going to do the summer bummer in IN. and if I'm still fighting the wretched thing, Its ending up in the lake.  Really don't want to spend the $7500 on a new KTM XTW 250..

Yes I do use the hot start lever and the pilot jet is a 42.  The bike starts on the first or second kick when cold...

HELP please!!!!

If you're "always stalling in the woods" then maybe gearing lower is a good option, your starting issue may be jetting or technique, have you adjusted the fuel screw to see what starting is like then ?

Could be a lot of issues to why its not starting but to answer your question about the tach - you can probably wire it directly into the coil.  Thats what i have done on my bikes.  Its a cleaner install and dont have the trouble of inductance with wrapping around a thick rubber coating on the wire near the plug boot.  check with your tach manufacturer to see if it can be done.

John

SVR6, on 03 August 2012 - 03:33 AM, said:

I'm wondering how this tach is going to help you from stalling the motor.
If you're idle is too low just turn it up to where you think it will work for you, then adjust from there. Is it all that important to know what the RPM is?

BTW we had a  similar hot start issue with an 09 250F. The only way to start it when hot was to push it. It ran great otherwise. Cold was no problem.
The simple fix was to get rid of it and get a FI bike. Problem solved.
I do not know how honda has been able to remain successful selling these things from the past.

well, the valves are within range and the air filter clean.  Wondering about hot start adjustment and pilot screw...

Stupid tach/hr meter still inoperative.  Does anything work on this damn bike?

what year crf250r do u have? I know on the 2004-09 you need to rap the wire on the coil i believe.. but on the 10-13 you can rap it around the wire four times... At least thats what i did for my 12

I've got an 05.  So do you wrap the electrical cable around the outside of the coil?  or around one or both of the wires?

nesc:  no the tach will not prevent me from stalling the bike but it will permit to set the right idle of around 1800 rpm.

Guess the R gearing is all wrong for enduro riding @ least until I get much faster.  Trying to stay in second gear most of the time.  Ordering a Z-start clutch which should make things workable.

Edited by SVR6, 04 August 2012 - 07:19 AM.

Yes wrap it around the black coil going into the cylinder head. But it up next to the seal that keeps dirt out of the spark plug area

I've got a 05 250r and had to see a pic of where to acutally wrap the wire  to get my hr meter it to work.

http://t2.gstatic.co...I_INu-wxnXNi0JB

This is not a honda but it shows were you need to wrap the wire. I put about 5 or so wraps, then used a smaill cable tie, then some electrical tape to keep everything tight.

Not sure where your mounting the meter but  leave enough slack in the wire to the hr meter so you can pull the spark plug wire out  later when you need to change the plug.

Edited by filterx, 05 August 2012 - 10:57 AM.

wrapped around both wires to the coil.  dropped pilot to a 40 because with the 42 I had the pilot screw all the way in for the hot start level to cause a drop in revs (its how you adjust the pilot screw).  Reassembled everything and now the damn thing won't start.  It does caugh so probably a matter of time...

SVR6, on 05 August 2012 - 05:03 PM, said:

I don't understand 100% of what you are trying to say but it might help if you set the fuel screw at 2 turns out, try to start the bike and then with the engine running (and fully warmed up) play with the fuel screw to get your best idle. If you need to go up to 3 full turns out on the fuel screw then your pilot is to small. anything less than 1 turn out and your pilot is to big.

What is your starting method ? A lot of these bikes won't be easy to start just by kicking, turn the fuel on and wait a few seconds, give 3 twists on the throttle, pull the choke, kick.

also you need to make sure your idle speed is good, if your bike seems like it wants to start but dies after a few revolutions you should try turning the idle speed up

I got it running after about 3 kicks when I got home.  Pilot is probably 2 3/4 turns out.  The air is also a lot drier than its been in a while.  I'm thinking this thing is as delicate as a tz250....

I ever have a lot of hot starting issue with my previous 450R 2005, the stator was the trouble

SVR6, on 06 August 2012 - 03:48 PM, said:

. Hi your pilot screw to far out at 2 3/4 turns out 2 to 1 1/2 should be about where you need to be,go back to the start cheak every thing,first valve clearances intakes at 6 thou makes for better hot starting exhausts at11 thou, next how old is the piston if it's well used it will start harder, how old is the plug now take the needle out of the carb cheak to see if the needle clip is fitted in the stock position if someone has lowerd the clip on the needle you get more fuel which hot engines do not need could be your problem you can figure it out, we run a 05 in enduro it will start first kick on the line if it stalls when hot one or two kicks gets it running it will even start if I use my hand to every ones amazement,if all is well it will start set your pilot screw hot it's all pilot jet fuel screw settings for good hot starting.Martin.

Edited by martin truszkowski, 08 August 2012 - 07:15 AM.

I agree ^^^^

Fuel screw is set too rich causing you to add air with hot start:

http://www.howtomoto...erbutton-often/