Hand guards?



23 replies to this topic
  • Thumpologist

Posted September 28, 2001 - 07:16 PM

#1

My piano teacher says I need some handguards. What works best for a 00 YZ426 with stock handlebars?

  • Ramrod

Posted September 29, 2001 - 03:14 AM

#2

I put on the Acerbis MX handguards ... they actually look really cool and once your used to handguards, you don't even notice them.

You might want to consider the Acerbis rally pro handguards - they look cool but also have an aluminum bar in them so if you crash you may not break/bend your levers and such.

  • mcarp

Posted October 01, 2001 - 09:53 PM

#3

Stock bar? I suppose all of them would probably fit and mount OK. I've found some mount better than others. Some are pure hell to mount, others bolt on easily.

If you need nothing more than roost protection, just get the plastic clip-on guards. Note, they will do nothing for you other than roost protection.

Since you're running stock bars and most of site is not, exact fitment could be hard to answer. Any popular alum handguards w/ matching plastic should protec your hands, bars, levers, and throttle. I'm currently using the Meier Woods Pro guards with woods pro plastic shields- strong, extra large hand area, and they aren't terribly expensive. The hardware is good quality and there are pre-machines holes for screwing in the plastic guards. Acerbis, Cycra, Moose, Fredette, etc all make them. I used Enduro Engineering awhile back on a different bike with a different bend bar. They were a real pain to fit, I had to drill my own holes to fir the plastic and the hardware rusted in about 2 months. They performed fine otherwise.

Both of these have taken some pretty good hits on rocks, trees, or hardpack. No broken levers, fingers or stuck thottles to
date :) If the aluminum guard was not there, I will GUARANTEE you'll look back and wish you had them. Like when you crash in the woods 20 miles from your truck with a broken lever or finger!

At this point, I would evaluate if you want to mount the guards on your triple clamp as the Cycra and GYT Yamaha design. Many say the bar flexes more with this setup and cleans up the bar area (less stuff to hit your knee/chest/etc). I would also highly consider some aluminum bars at this point.
The stocks will bend much easier and they transmit more vibration than aluminum. Yamaha fitted cheap-o's on as they know everyone changes them to Aluminum-and a bend more to their liking. It took my 3 bars to find a bend I like! If you're tall (over 6'1" or so)-get a higher bend to help your standing posture. I've tried many brands-the TAG's and Renthal (7/8 both) are good upgrades. Many folks love the protaper (never tried these), but keep in mind your mounting kit for the guards will only fit one size bars.

  • #1_Hit-man

Posted October 01, 2001 - 12:19 PM

#4

I just got some acerbis PHS bars, they are the fat ones like the protaper's. Before I got numbness in my hands all the time and arm pump. I tested them out this sun. for a good hard 5 hr. ride and got no numbness at all :) GREAT BARS. ~Hit-man~

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00'YZ426F 00'XR50R LATER DAYS!!!

  • DaveJ

Posted October 01, 2001 - 01:35 PM

#5

I'm not sure how true this is, but there is the possibility that if the hand slips from the bar, going forward, that the lower arm can get trapped between guard rail and bar.

If the rest of you keeps going, in a typical over-bars get off, the arm bone loses the battle.

An open configuration (roost only protection) may be best if you're doing serious motocrossing or FMX.

Tight trails and Enduro may need otherwise.

DaveJ

  • jpwr250f

Posted October 01, 2001 - 02:02 PM

#6

and if you keep going forward, your other hand might get caought in the spokes, or maybe it will get jammed between the chain and sproket. ow ow ow

  • teamtoxic

Posted October 02, 2001 - 02:44 AM

#7

<font color="navy">First of all, I don't think you'll have a problem breaking your arm(s) by installing hand gaurds. If what DaveJ says did happen, it would be a complete freak accident. I will take that chance to save my levers, bars, hands, and fingers by running closed hand gaurds.
I would recommend that no matter which brand you buy, buy an aluminum reinforced set. One of the first things I put on my 426 were aluminum reinforced hand gaurds and my stock bars lasted a very long time, and more than a few crashes. Aluminum reinforced hand gaurds will substancially decrease the chance of your bars bending. Not to mention the protection of hands/fingers.
As for brands of handgaurds, I would recommend Acerbis or Maier(spelling?) handguards. I'm running the Maier gaurds and they are just awesome.

If you do not buy aluminum reinforced hand gaurds, then you should go buy yourself some Renthal or ProTaper bars today, because you will be replacing the stock bars very soon.


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~YaMaHaYzFoUrTwOsIx~

  • jamracing

Posted October 02, 2001 - 04:38 AM

#8

I wouldn't ride without aluminum handguards for ten minutes! I have never broken a lever or finger, all thanks to the handguards. However, I put the fancy Cycra pro-bend's on my new bike, and was very dissapointed! I have had to bend them back into shape several times, after minor drops and tree encounters. My suggestion is get the Moose, Enduro Engineering, or similar simple bend guard.

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Josh
01' WR426
99' YZ400
87' FZR1000
Uh, like twist the throttle...

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted October 02, 2001 - 01:17 PM

#9

jamracing, if you would quit crashing you would not have this problem. With all the crashes you and Robin do, you would think I would get to see a few more, oh wait, you would have to be in front of me.

  • Chris_Slade

Posted October 02, 2001 - 02:15 PM

#10

I ran the Acerbis Rallys on my KX, they wer nice. When I went to my KTM, I got the Rally Pros, with the aluminum insert, hoping they wouldn't spin and tweak so much on an impact. It's true, they don't...but I went down once, and with my Rallys, I was ale to beat them back into place with my hand in about 5 seconds. The aluminum bent in the rally pros, and forced me to come in to use a long box wrench and hammer to pry/beat it straight again.....had this been a race, not a fun ride....I would have been in some trouble.....as it was impossible to ride with the guard bent up as it was.

I will never ride ANYTHING without guards, be it fun, mx, hare scramble, desert, whatever. They are worth the money 4 times over. Just I may put the Rallys on next time, not the Rally Pros.....


Mounting on Acerbis stuff is easy. All mounting hardware for stock steel, and oversized aluminum bars is included fo the outside. To clamp to the bars, if you have stock, you're fine. If oversized (Maguras, or Pro Tapers) you need to buy an adapter - about 25-35 dollars extra, I would guess, geographically pending...


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  • neWRiver

Posted October 02, 2001 - 02:47 PM

#11

I have had the same experience with my Rally Pro's. Mainly, when the bike goes down on the bars, the guards very readily bend into a position so as to interfere with the levers. And because they're aluminum, they don't bend back very easily. My brother put the Rally's on his bike and like you said, they get mangled but tend to have sort of a plastic "memory". Also, on the throttle side the Rally Pros will jam up the throttle tube. Some one else I read on this site refered to it as "cruise control". This makes for a dangerous riding condition as well. It got to be such a frequent issue for me that I ended up cutting the end off of the throttle tube so that I could insert a steel fender washer on the end of the bars to prevent the guard from binding.

The Rally Pro's seem to me to provide better impact protection and they do keep my stock bars from bending. I'm going to replace the Acerbis guards with something else when I get new bars (and maybe a steering stabilizer). I'd like to stay with an aluminum bar type. I was leaning toward the Cycra. I'm wondering if a TC mounted guard would hold up better than the handle bar type bracket that I have on the Acerbis now.

  • mcarp

Posted October 03, 2001 - 09:06 PM

#12

Decisions, decisions!

Hitman-glad you like your new bars. Amazing how aluminum bars removes the vibration, huh? Didja get a flywheel and sprockets yet? (it's Mike from Bill's Eastern Moab trip in PA)

I buddy of mine was telling me a local shop told him to squirt silicone into his bars to reduce vibration. I may give this a try on some extra Renthals laying around. I'm a little hesitant about doing so as the high and "steerable" weight is a turn-off.
Anyone tried silicone in the bars?

Thumpologist-- Have we convinced you yet to buy some aluminum bars? Preferably a bend you think you'll like, not just what your local shop wants to sell you!

If you are interested, post your bike, height and riding style (stand, sit, both, enduro, mx, etc) and any ergo problems you may now have and hopefully someone can recommend a good bend for you. I'm 6'2" with long arms and using bar risers AND taller-than-average bars. This is appx 1 1/2" taller than stock! Anything lower and I'm uncomfortable standing.

just food for thought in the search for the ultimate ride!

The stock bars, simply said, should be replaced with aluminum at your earliest convenience! When you crash hard with alum bars and guards and realize nothing is bent--you'll thank us.

  • Ramrod

Posted October 03, 2001 - 09:46 PM

#13

Has anyone ever used aluminum bark busters and mounted on a pair of acerbis mx handguards. Since I have the handguards, I might try to do this. I'm sure with a little cutting and drilling they should fit, but I hope they don't look goofy.

Anyone out there tried this?

  • Hick

Posted October 03, 2001 - 12:39 PM

#14

Originally posted by neWRiver:
I'm going to replace the Acerbis guards with something else when I get new bars (and maybe a steering stabilizer). I'd like to stay with an aluminum bar type. I was leaning toward the Cycra. I'm wondering if a TC mounted guard would hold up better than the handle bar type bracket that I have on the Acerbis now.


NeWRiver,

The TC mounted bark buster (Cycra or otherwise) should be an improvement over the Rally Pro Guards in two areas:

1) Cruise control. With a more fixed, rigid mount you can mount the guard/bar-end slightly away from the throttle tube (and it will stay there). I’ve had a few different TC mounts over two years (read: many falls) and have yet to have the bar end interfere with the throttle. On bar mounts, no matter how tight, a good crash tends to move everything inboard. BTW I like your “washer” idea for this area, that sounds like a good trick regardless (picture me filing that away).

2) Bending/rotating. They won’t rotate out of position when you fall. If you do crash badly enough they will bend, of course, but rarely to such an extent to interfere with anything. All bark busters can be bent, IMO they differ from Rally Pros in that they are more easily straightened and you can buy new plastic hand shields for about $20. They are interchangeable so you can have vented Moose hand shields, the smaller sized Cycras, different colors, or whatever, and replace them when they begin to get trashed (mine get slowly consumed by the Mesquite).


Another advantage of TC mounted bark busters is you have more room for brake line clearance etc. I always had to make some compromises because I like my levers in weird places, but you don’t have that inner bar mount to contend with when you use TC mounts.

I also think they help strengthen the bar by sort of triangulating them via the TC mount. I broke a nice pair of DeMarinis in a normal looking flop because, IMO, the bar mounted guards just focused all of the impact on the short, inner portion of the bar and it snapped off right at the bar clamp. I don’t see that happening with TC mounts.

SRC
Cycra
GYT-R

All three offer these kind of mounts, I believe all are around $70 (ain’t it always like that? Anybody got AutoCAD and a CNC machine laying around?), and all should work with any bark buster (EE, Fredette, Cycra etc.), I have used the latter two, which only work for side facing pinch bolts, but SRC makes two kinds for side and front facing upper pinch bolts (stock WR/YZ is side, my Scott top clamp is also side, I think Applieds are front). Oh, the GYT-Rs are more adjustable, you may have trouble getting the Cycras to fit with wider (longer?) bars. So, advantage GYT-R I guess…

BTW I have seen Moose (made by Fredette?), EE, and Cycra Pro Bends side by side, all seem to be the same gauge of metal, so I don’t see any reason not to run the Pro Bends, especially if, like me, you sometimes hit the outside of your hands on normal bark busters. My two Rupees.

Finally, something that never seems to get mentioned, and that many companies (like Cycra and EE) don’t seem to realize (not when I called ‘em, anyway) is that most (all?) of these guards have bar end mounts that only fit a single handlebar ID size (PT or 1-7/8” aluminum). Stock steel bars, Twinwalls (and possibly others), have a too large ID and the bar end won’t snug up. Cycra offers rubber ends for this problem, but they are hardly confidence inspiring, especially with respect to the cruise control problems you mention.

Their name escapes me right now, but I have put bar ends on those “other” crossbar less handlebars that KTM thumpers come with and they do fit those as well.

Hope this helps.


[This message has been edited by Hick (edited October 03, 2001).]

  • neWRiver

Posted October 03, 2001 - 02:54 PM

#15

Thanks Hick, yes that helps alot!

Yeah, I've racked the smaller fingers of my hands a few times on the sides of the guards. :) That's one of the reasons I was looking at the Cycra's. Also, I see that they are offering a racer's pack which includes the TC mounts - http://cycra.com/cgi...8133 1002158201

As to the adjustability issue of the TC mounts, will I run into problems if I get an enduro bend on my new bars (i.e., half inch shorter on each end of the bars)?

Ramrod - Yeah I think the Acerbis guards are really sleek and I love the way they look. Problem is they're... well... really "sleek". After using them in single track through heavy brush, I don't feel that they offer enough protection for that kind of riding. My finger tips get slapped alot by brush and tree limbs that are otherwise deflected by the guards. I need something with a bigger coverage area around my hands.

Oh, and in case anyone else is wondering, Mesquite is this very innocent looking bush- like tree that likes to bite you and take little rips out of your clothing (or flesh) with very small but very sharp thorns.

  • Hick

Posted October 03, 2001 - 03:24 PM

#16

That Racer Pack seems like a relatively good deal.

As for shortened bars, I used to cut mine too (no real reason) and IMO this isn’t a problem. If the guards are too long you can bend the outer portion in towards the grip, but too short is a different issue. You can effectively lengthen them by reducing the bend, but this gives up clearance between lever tips and the guards (so I guess increasing the bend increases the clearance).

Which brings me to my final point and that is that you shouldn’t be afraid to bend the guards to get them to fit like you want them to. I’ve had them on a few different bikes/bars/clamps and had to bend them a little every time to get them just right, I’ve even twisted them a bit on occasion to get the TC side to mount flush. Because the TC clamps don’t rotate like bar mounts this is more of a problem, but easily dealt with IMO.

The “standard” shields offered by Cycra are much larger than the Acerbis Rally Pro variety, they also offer a slimmer version. I sometimes drill a bunch of holes in mine in the summer to let some air through, but the bigger kind are what you need for thick, thorny brush.

  • Thumpologist

Posted October 03, 2001 - 03:57 PM

#17

Thanks for all the imput. Yes mcarp, you all have convinced me to get aluminum bars. Suggestions on what bend to get would be appreciated. I ride a 00 YZ426 mostly in the trees with some mx. I am 6'1.5",190 lbs with long arms.I ride sitting and standing. I don't worry much about limbs and brush because the trees don't have limbs down low. I hope these aluminum bars are not wider. The trees get pretty tight.

[This message has been edited by Thumpologist (edited October 06, 2001).]

  • #1_Hit-man

Posted October 03, 2001 - 05:07 PM

#18

Mccarp, Yes the bars are great, I knew alum. bars make a difference, but they make a big difference on the 426. I will be looking for a flywheel weight and I am looking to get a 13 tooth front sprocket from Bill as soon as I can. I did know who you were Mike, my memory is not that bad I'm only 39 years old :). Hope to get together for another ride soon, Talk to ya later. If anyone knows someone that wants to sell a flywheel weight, I'm interested. But I want the whole flywheel with the weight on it for easy switch back. THANX! ~Hit-man~

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00'YZ426F 00'XR50R LATER DAYS!!!

  • Ramrod

Posted October 04, 2001 - 03:10 AM

#19

Thumpologist,

If you like Renthals, I use the RC bend Renthals on my 426 and I love them ... I'm about the same height with long arms as you are ... I think the Honda bend Renthals are very popular also - you decide.

  • mcarp

Posted October 04, 2001 - 05:19 AM

#20

Thump-

I see you're in CO where many TT riders live. Try to see if you can sit on another members bike with different bends.

The Renthal Jimmy Button bars are the tallest you can get. Some feel they are slightly wide, but you can always cut it down. I rode Bill (the admin of this site) and Mike68's bike-both with Jimmy Buttons-they felt great to me (6'2", 195lbs-long arms). I would not hesitate to buy them.

I'm running the TAG T5 CR Double high bend (not as tall as the Jimmy buttons) with the stock top clamps turned upside down (use scott's top clamp for damper, so the cost was just 4 longer bolts). Both setups are roughly the same height. I choose the TAG because 1.) Doublewall material at bend resists breaking 2.) Supposed to transmit less vibration than other bars (can't confirm this) 3.) Bend was slightly more swept back which seems to help my turning.

I guess the best way to tell if you need taller bars is when your're standing--do you feel like you're hunched over the bars a little too much? Does it seem like you have to bend down with your back or knees to have slightly bent arms? I did w/o risers! My back was killing me, and I had the sensation I was going to go over the bars if I made a mistake.

Both types of bars are appx $65-75. A small price to pay for better ergo's and strength.

I agree with Boit, the triple clamp mounts are probably the hot ticket. I have not invested in these yet--perhaps this winter I will. The bars will flex more, will not rotate out of position in a crash, and cleans up the bar area/cable routing. They are appx $50.

Good luck. If you want a pic of the double highs w/ risers, sent me your email addy.





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