Can I paint a PMB Anodized Blue sparky end cap?


11 replies to this topic
  • Bandit9

Posted July 17, 2012 - 05:54 PM

#1

I just picked up a complete YZF exhaust from fellow TT member Navaho. It is the blue anodized one with the quiet insert. Two questions:

1. Is it possible to remove the tip from the blue anodized part? I've looked at it and it appears to be pressed in maybe???

2. If I can seperate the tip, how do I go about painting the blue anodized part? I've heard to use etching primer before painting it. I've also heard that if it a has a clear protective finish that it won't work. I'm assuming this has a finish although I really don't know.

Thanks,
Blanco

  • woods-rider

Posted July 20, 2012 - 09:00 AM

#2

Make sure to use a high temp paint if you do paint it or it will probably just burn off right away.

  • Bandit9

Posted July 25, 2012 - 06:47 PM

#3

Update.

The insert comes off the endcap. It just had some silicone in it making it hard to remove. I ended up using my bench grinder brush wheel to remove all the blue anodizing. So it looks like raw aluminum. Now I don't have to worry about the finish or any process. Just prime and paint.

Any tips on a primer or good brand of Hi Temp paint?

Edited by Bandit9, July 25, 2012 - 06:48 PM.


  • MANIAC998

Posted July 26, 2012 - 03:39 AM

#4

I used Hi-Temp paint on my two stroke pipe once, and the easiest, and best looking way that I found was to heat the piece first. I got the pipe really hot with torches, and then sprayed the paint on it, and it didn't run like before when it was cold.
Maniac

  • Bandit9

Posted July 26, 2012 - 07:07 AM

#5

This is after you primed it?

  • MANIAC998

Posted July 28, 2012 - 03:57 AM

#6

Nope, no primer. That's why the paint would just run and look like Hell! So I heated up the pipe, and sprayed it with the Hi-Temp, and it literally "baked" right on and looked really good! It was many years ago, so I don't remember if that was the way I was supposed to do it or not. Just read the Hi-temp can and see if primer needs to be used or not. My guess is that it won't be required.
Maniac

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  • Bandit9

Posted July 28, 2012 - 04:39 AM

#7

Well, I'm going to use Dupont Etching Primer and Dupont Hi Temp flat black. We will see how it looks. Where the screw holes are I'm having trouble getting some of the blue anodizing off. Need to get a smaller Dremel sanding bit. I should have it all painted by Sunday.

  • MANIAC998

Posted July 28, 2012 - 05:01 AM

#8

Make sure you post some pics of the final product!!
Maniac

  • Bandit9

Posted July 29, 2012 - 04:42 PM

#9

What it looked like after I brush wheeled it on the bench grinder.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1.JPG


  • Bandit9

Posted July 29, 2012 - 04:49 PM

#10

I ended up using Rust Oleum instead of the Dupont.
Etching Primer and Hi Temp flat black.2.JPG

This after I primed it. It looked like Army O.D. Green.3.JPG

This is after I painted it and mounted back on silencer.4.JPG

5.JPG 6.JPG


I'm happy with it. That almost Aqua like blue was hedious. Looked skanky. I think it looks way better. Now I'm going to take it back off and follow the instructions on the Hi Temp can to bake in oven at 250 degrees for 30 min, let cool for 30 min, bake at 400 for 30 mins, let cool for 30 mins, bake at 600 for 30 mins, let cool.

Edited by Bandit9, July 29, 2012 - 04:54 PM.


  • MANIAC998

Posted July 29, 2012 - 07:38 PM

#11

Looks good!!!
Maniac

  • Bandit9

Posted July 29, 2012 - 07:46 PM

#12

Yeah it came out good. Looks better in person. It didn't take but 5 mins to remove the anodizing. I might use a gloss on it if I need to re paint in the future.




 
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