2002 CR250 Chain
Posted 17 July 2012 - 05:31 PM
Posted 17 July 2012 - 05:45 PM
Posted 17 July 2012 - 06:14 PM
DID 520VT2 - It's a X-ring chain. I just put one on with Ironman sprockets. Fits great
http://www.rockymoun...ng-X-Ring-Chain
Edited by AXAxiom, 17 July 2012 - 06:22 PM.
Posted 17 July 2012 - 07:43 PM
good chain an not realy expensive about 60 bucks on ebay.
Kawie
Posted 17 July 2012 - 10:31 PM
kawie, on 17 July 2012 - 07:43 PM, said:
good chain an not realy expensive about 60 bucks on ebay.
Kawie
How is the stretch on those? With the X-ring you ride it once, adjust it, and that's pretty much it. Just curious.
Posted 18 July 2012 - 05:29 AM
Posted 18 July 2012 - 05:51 AM
kneedrag05, on 18 July 2012 - 05:29 AM, said:
Really? Hmmm, I wonder why my ert2 chain streched completely out of service within 10 hours of riding then (05 450r). My VT2 chain has been running without and adjustment for about 16 hours now (after the 1st one that is).
Posted 18 July 2012 - 06:32 AM
frdbtr, on 18 July 2012 - 05:51 AM, said:
I guess I'm just being a little anal terminology wise. I have no doubt that a chain could "wear" very quickly if it is an unsealed or poorly sealed chain. For some reason the term "stretch" just bothers me, haha.
This is a little info from dirttricks.com
How do you determine when your chain is beyond the manufacturer's wear limit? First of all let's correct the myth that chains stretch. Chains don't stretch. The outside measurement of an individual link plate does not get longer with wear. Your bike is not "so powerful" that is stretches chain. Chains are constructed of essentially link plates, pins, bushings and rollers. In order for a chain to roll around a sprocket the pins must have clearance through the bushing holes, allowing them to pivot. That clearance begins at about .0005", or 1/6 of a human hair. The pins and bushings are subjected to continual pivoting, and as they pass a sprocket, steel against steel wear occurs. This causes the pins and their mating holes to wear in an eccentric manner as the diagram below shows. In abrasive dirt conditions and especially mud, grains of sand are introduced between these mating surfaces and wear is accelerated many times over. A sealed chain (O-ring, X-ring, Z-ring ...) acts to prevent abrasives from entering this pivoting joint.
Edited by kneedrag05, 18 July 2012 - 06:35 AM.
Posted 18 July 2012 - 11:18 AM
kneedrag05, on 18 July 2012 - 05:29 AM, said:
We've always called it "stretch" since the net effect is that the chain is now longer and requires adjustment. I wasn't suggesting the metal itself was stretching. Splitting hairs a "little" there bro.
Posted 18 July 2012 - 05:10 PM
http://www.rockymoun...RH-X-Ring-Chain
Posted 18 July 2012 - 08:32 PM
Edited by harryhandshake, 18 July 2012 - 08:34 PM.
Posted 19 July 2012 - 05:37 AM
Posted 19 July 2012 - 07:38 AM
Incidentally the ERT2 chain had to be adjusted after every ride until there really wasn't any more room for adjustment on it.
Edited by frdbtr, 19 July 2012 - 07:39 AM.
Posted 19 July 2012 - 07:43 AM
HrcRacing27, on 18 July 2012 - 11:18 AM, said:
Splitting hairs or not, it makes total sense and is helpful info. That is why a sealed chain lasts so much longer since the dust and grime can't get in there to destroy the chains. I was looking for a good durable chain for the CR80 since it seems to wear chains out like crazy and EK makes an oring chain in the 420 size. I am going to have to let my neighbor know about it (he is the one who bought mine from me) so he doesn't waste anymore money on non sealed chains.
Edited by frdbtr, 19 July 2012 - 07:44 AM.
Posted 19 July 2012 - 07:49 AM
frdbtr, on 19 July 2012 - 07:43 AM, said:
VERDICT: non-sealed chains = poopy
Posted 19 July 2012 - 05:07 PM
frdbtr, on 19 July 2012 - 07:43 AM, said:
Yep, that's why I posted that I run the DID 520VT2 and have always ran sealed chains.
Posted 19 July 2012 - 05:18 PM








