has anyone tried the other chips that come with the bike? Is their any reason to change them. Coming from car racing when it was hot like it is now you would lean the efi out and richer in the cold. Im in NY temps around 90, should i put the lean chip in? Just wondering im new to dirt bikes,
Thanks
2012 rmz250 efi chips
Started by
ajcjr
, Jul 15 2012 05:57 PM
5 replies to this topic
Posted 17 July 2012 - 02:51 PM
My response is based off the assumption of stock intake/exhaust/cam/port timing.
I have tried all 3 and can detect a difference.
The short answer is it's user preference to the track conditions.
Generally speaking, for same environmental conditions not compensated by EFI (i.e. humidity), rich is good for mud (less response), lean is good for tacky (more response).
The long answer:
I don't know how lean or rich and in what engine operation area Suz is going with these.
The considerations are exhaust emissions/fuel economy (not so important for MX), drivability, and durability. Drivability is user preference. Durability: what you don't want to do is use the lean in a hot condition under consistent high load (low charge cooling = melting pistons). For example, I would never use the lean on a sand track during a hot summer day if I were a fast rider.
Also, EFI does not compensate for humidity (only ambient air temperature, water temperature, manifold pressure, engine RPM, atmospheric or altitude, throttle position). So, if there is high humidity there will be less air (more water) per intake stroke. So, less fuel is needed to make the same target air/fuel ratio. Therefore, use the Lean to compensate.
Give them a try back-to-back noting the track and environmental conditions. Play around with it and see if you can make a rule for yourself on which to select.
If anything it will keep things interesting.
Enjoy!!
I have tried all 3 and can detect a difference.
The short answer is it's user preference to the track conditions.
Generally speaking, for same environmental conditions not compensated by EFI (i.e. humidity), rich is good for mud (less response), lean is good for tacky (more response).
The long answer:
I don't know how lean or rich and in what engine operation area Suz is going with these.
The considerations are exhaust emissions/fuel economy (not so important for MX), drivability, and durability. Drivability is user preference. Durability: what you don't want to do is use the lean in a hot condition under consistent high load (low charge cooling = melting pistons). For example, I would never use the lean on a sand track during a hot summer day if I were a fast rider.
Also, EFI does not compensate for humidity (only ambient air temperature, water temperature, manifold pressure, engine RPM, atmospheric or altitude, throttle position). So, if there is high humidity there will be less air (more water) per intake stroke. So, less fuel is needed to make the same target air/fuel ratio. Therefore, use the Lean to compensate.
Give them a try back-to-back noting the track and environmental conditions. Play around with it and see if you can make a rule for yourself on which to select.
If anything it will keep things interesting.
Enjoy!!
Posted 17 July 2012 - 05:01 PM
if you want to sell them ill buy them from you. i lost mine for my bike and want to try the rich one out for an exhaust i just bought. if you want to sell ill buy asap
thanks
nick
thanks
nick
Posted 17 July 2012 - 07:09 PM
im not looking to sell, looking to find out when i should use them. i guess ill play around with them
thanks
thanks
Posted 18 July 2012 - 04:34 AM
Honda574, on 17 July 2012 - 02:51 PM, said:
For example, I would never use the lean on a sand track during a hot summer day if I were a fast rider.
I was really concerned that I cooked the motor with the lean mapping
When I got it home, the only thing I noticed was that the spark plug cap was not really seated firmly. Other than that everything looked good. The valves were still perfect, The spark plug was a nice medium brown, the oil looked/smelled fine... I have the works connection hour meter and the wire under the plug cap(whatever you call it) looked like it had pushed the cap up.
I changed the plug, oil, filter and put the standard mapping back in. I rode for 1.5 hour practice this past weekend(with the standard mapping) and the bike ran perfectly. Started normal and ran strong...
Not sure what my point is, but I'm really gun shy of the lean mapping now. I'm 90% sure it was the plug cap, but that doesn't explain why the bike initially would not re-start and then suddenly it did start after cooling off for 5-10 minutes.
Edited by motoxracer408, 18 July 2012 - 04:36 AM.








