ok, on my bike I just installed a magura hydraulic clutch.

problem is that I am not getting much stroke out of the clutcb lever before it gets tight... its not pulling the clutch arm all the way and engagaing the clutch, almost like the rod at the bottom that goes into the clutch arm is too long.

I am not too sure... im sure its simple... do you guys got any ideas?

also, this is the mount that they gave me... seems kinda sketchy and in a vulnerable spot. it says to allow for 4-6 mm play/gap... now is that gap between their weird mount and the golden hex head on the left side?

also, the rod being too long or it not being tight,, it wants to fall out very easily but I imagine once I adjust it so that the clutch arm is pulling on the hydraulic clutch rod it should make everything tight.




bike is a 2005 crf450.

thanks!!!

no ideas about the clutch but dam man its called a hose. wash ur baby!

Not sure either but I have a buddy that had a similar problem on his '03.  I'll ring him and see if he'll chime in for ya.

ekulb14, on 08 July 2012 - 02:05 PM, said:

my baby has been ridden and abused so hard these past few months its not even worth keeping it clean. after 3 years and over $20,000 into it ive got it bomb proof. im sick of having to shine is every ride and replacing every tiny insignificant seal that might be leaking (like the cam chain tensioner seal) just to have it muddy and abused 30 mins into the next riding trip that same weekend. it does need a quick pressure wash though ill admit.. just havnt had time. rush rush rush all the time!

Did the bike come with spacers for the mount to move the cylinder back. Did you adjust the lever to engage sooner so you get more pull on the clutch arm.

cdf450, on 08 July 2012 - 02:17 PM, said:

20 grand? what did you do to it, gold plating?

305TID, on 08 July 2012 - 03:10 PM, said:

no, no spacers. didnt adjust the lever.. how do I do that? only thing to adjust was the screw which brought the lever further or closer to the handlebar.

mrmoto35, on 08 July 2012 - 04:22 PM, said:

the whole bike is aftermarket.. the only OEM honda parts left are the frame, and engine cases and internal gears lol. that price also includes 2 engine rebuilds at 1500$ each. a 1000$ full hinson clutch. 1000$ wheelset. 800$ stabilizer. etc... it adds up fast. ive rebuilt/replaced everything twice... and with fancy parts too. boyesen, hinson, wiseco, the bike is done right up!   so yeah, 3 years and 220 hard engine hours later and im over $20,000 deep into it! this bike has every bell and whistle you can think of from oversized fluidine rads to foam in the gas tank to prevent slosh.  I climb mountains with it and sometimes the bike tumbles down, or up the top.. its a tough bike!!!!

but yeah... back to the clutch lol. I need it working ASAP!

pull the cap off the cylinder and let some air in maybe.  or screw the screw out to adjust the lever position.....has to be something simple.  GL and hope you like it....let us know.

I did pull the top cap off and press the clutch about 25  times.... every time it made an air bubble so I figured I wasnt making any progress and the air wasnt coming from the line (if any is in there form factory)

I cant just adjust the lever with the screw... the clutch is maxing out, or locking up after I squeeze the lever only 3/4 of an inch or so... out of its 2" stroke...... while thats happening, the rod on the bottom is sucking in (getting shorter) and pulling on the clutch arm and trying to engage (or is it disengage?) the clutch...but its not pulling it enough.. i didnt actually try riding it to see what exactly would happen... but im pretty sure its not working right.

No idea what the problem is but it's "disengage".  Could you clean it a little around the actuator and take of pic of where the end of the slave rod is in relationship to the actuator piece it goes into?  I have it on my bike and I had to lift the actuator arm to get the slave rod attacted, there's no play at that point.  On their video they show having to do that on 4-strokes as well.

Personally, I don't care for that mount at all.  I guess it's good but looks a bit iffy to me.

Here....

Edited by HrcRacing27, 09 July 2012 - 06:20 PM.

the end of the slave rod sticks out past that actuator piece by about 3 or 4mm...  I can get pics today for you.

if it has to be bled... do I need to bleed it from the bottom? or can I just buy a jug of mineral oil and bleed it from the top? or do I need the bottle thats like in the overpriced magura bleed kit?

thanks!

Bleed it like you would your brakes from the top.

so just to confirm... I just open the bleed screw at the bottom, and press on the clutch lever to make fluid come out, while keeping the top reservoir topped off, right?

thanks!

Not Really. Read the manual and buy the bleed kit. I just broke down and got one. Call Magura. Either you need spacers or need another mount. I have it on my 10 which is completely different than yours.

ive read the manual... it doesnt say much. and I will not buy the overpriced bleed kit.   why do you say "not really"... isnt the concept of bleeding the same as everywhere else?

crack the bottom open, squeeze lever, close bottom, let lever release. repeat 2x then top off the upper reservoir????

i sure hope I dont need spacers or another mount or I will be very pissed off!!! I will email magura now. going to maybe try bleeding it today.

I remember my buddy having a similar issue a few years back when he installed his.  I asked him how he fixed it and he said he "just rode it and it worked itself out".  Seems wierd to me but I've personally ridden the bike and the clutch works great so...

I cant ride mine though... it doesnt even disengage the clutch enough to get it into 1st gear.. it barely pulls the actuator arm. I couldnt find mineral oil at wal mart (where the hell is it??) so ill try again tomorrow I guess!

heres a picture of how much I am able to get the actuator arm to move... the top pic is how it is normally... its not tight and could fall out.. the rebound of the actuator arm should hold the clutch part there very tightly... but it seems like the rod is too long so the actuator arm cant hold it tight.

and the bottom picture is how much movement I get out of it before the clutch lever bottoms out on itself (not the handlebar)

and 3rd picture shows how much slack is in the piece when its just sitting there.. maybe 4mm? so if the rod was shortened or sucked in more by 5mm it should be perfect.

It might just be a part mix up at the factory.  I didn't have this problem.  Don't be discouraged though, I love mine.  Yes you bleed it like anyother hydraulic line.........  Try taking your slave cylinder loose from the motor and holding it so all the air bubbles can go up to the master cylinder.  And your lever should move more than an inch........it really sounds like you have a wrong part.  Pull out the little rod that extends from your slave cylinder and see how far it comes out and if your lever will get a full pull as it comes back in.....and yes when it's right, the slave cylinder will hold everything tight.  GL