Edited by chambo3232, July 07, 2012 - 08:42 PM.
Balancer Shaft Damage from Impellers seals failing
Posted July 07, 2012 - 08:32 PM
Posted July 07, 2012 - 09:06 PM
Posted July 08, 2012 - 09:37 PM
Allterra, Are you sure the cases have to be split? On my previous Yamaha's, you could remove the balancer shaft without splitting the cases. It's all in the manual.
I could be wrong but I am pretty sure there is a lip on the inside of the 07's shaft that rides next to the bearing I just looked at the book just to make sure it did say to split the case. I didn't have to on my 05 WR
. I had to split mine (07 WR) to retreve a missing screw that I found in a rag later .
Edited by allterra, July 08, 2012 - 09:42 PM.
Posted July 08, 2012 - 10:30 PM
Posted July 09, 2012 - 03:40 AM
Posted July 09, 2012 - 07:48 AM
I will agree with you on the fact that '06 on back, you don't have to split the cases to remove the balancer shaft. I don't know for sure on '07 on up. Chambo, do you have the manual?
If you need one in a pinch check out this site. http://www.yamahaown...ook.com.au/?r=0 it is in 4 languages so it can be a pain in the but. also it is on the international bikes so some things may differ but the motor should be the same.
Edited by allterra, July 09, 2012 - 07:49 AM.
Posted July 10, 2012 - 05:35 PM
Posted July 11, 2012 - 08:15 AM
The shaft "floats" in the bearings, which are pressed into the cases. Start by removing the gears and counterweights from both sides, and the bearing retainer plates. Replace the nut on the left (flywheel) end and apply some heat carefully to the crankcase around the right side bearing. Rap the left end sharply with a steel hammer and punch. Use a large pointed or flat point punch that will sit in the center drilling at the end of the shaft.
Once the right side bearing has "broken free" and is moving, proceed cautiously. The shaft has a cutout in the middle of it to clear the crank flyweights. Position the crank with the rod at around 30 degrees forward and listen/feel for the end of this cut out to strike the crank. If this happens, STOP. Usually, the right side bearing will have cleared the case by that time, but it may not have. If it has, remove it, and then drive the shaft in the opposite direction to free the left bearing. Once the bearings are both out, the shaft can be moved forward in its bore far enough to clear the crank.
If the right side bearing has not come free of its bore when the shaft stops on the crank, you can either see if it can be wiggled out of place with pliers, or drive the shaft back the other way to free the left bearing, after which the right can be knocked out from the opposite side.
Posted June 09, 2013 - 06:43 AM
I too have been going through water pump seals. (06 YZ450) Moving fwd with replacing the balancer shaft bearings. (have gears, counterweights, and retainer clips removed as of right now) Chambo indicated, he found the balancer shaft to no longer have the 'mating material' to turn the impeller shaft. As this pertains to to my impeller and balancer shaft - it does have some slop; can rotate the impeller shaft back and forth approximately 1/8"-3/16", as I seat the end of the impeller shaft into the balancer end and, some significant rust is apparent. Looks ugly in there IMO... Thoughts?
Edited by probracing1, June 09, 2013 - 06:51 AM.
Posted June 10, 2013 - 06:47 AM
So far, I don't see anything particularly wrong with yours.
Posted June 10, 2013 - 11:14 AM
Posted June 10, 2013 - 02:07 PM