How many miles/km do you have on your WR?


37 replies to this topic
  • Stealth13

Posted July 05, 2012 - 07:42 AM

#1

If you have an odometer how much mileage is on your bike and what have you had to do to the engine? Mainly just wondering how far the bikes can go before a top end.

I have put 5200 km on mine this year alone and haven't touched the engine.

  • ewr2004

Posted July 05, 2012 - 10:19 AM

#2

2006 WR450
8240 Miles

Replaced all components of the water pump
Replaced steering head bearings
Rebuilt rear shock
Replaced fork seals

Edited by ewr2004, July 05, 2012 - 10:25 AM.


  • Stealth13

Posted July 05, 2012 - 12:04 PM

#3

2006 WR450
8240 Miles

Replaced all components of the water pump
Replaced steering head bearings
Rebuilt rear shock
Replaced fork seals

Stock engine?

  • ewr2004

Posted July 05, 2012 - 12:39 PM

#4

Stock motor with the mods.

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted July 05, 2012 - 01:34 PM

#5

If you have an odometer how much mileage is on your bike and what have you had to do to the engine? Mainly just wondering how far the bikes can go before a top end.

I have put 5200 km on mine this year alone and haven't touched the engine.

i've went 8K miles before my first top end. However, do not wait that long.

Not only is the piston and rings tired, but there are other components that need to looked at.

Once I went through and replaced the tired components, my bike runs like new.

  • Stealth13

Posted July 05, 2012 - 02:10 PM

#6

So I might as well sell it when it hits 6000 miles? Don't feel like spending 3000 to rebuild, when the bike hardly cost any more than that

  • The Hopper Show

Posted July 05, 2012 - 07:08 PM

#7

729 miles

Edited by The Hopper Show, July 05, 2012 - 07:08 PM.


  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted July 05, 2012 - 10:23 PM

#8

So I might as well sell it when it hits 6000 miles? Don't feel like spending 3000 to rebuild, when the bike hardly cost any more than that


You will not spend 3K unless you wait for the piston to break or you drop a valve because you haven't gotten it inspected. You will spend a whole lot less than that. That 3K number is for a catastrophic failure like when your engine goes crunch.

I just went through my bike, changed all the bearings, painted the frame, new graphics, piston, valves and a bunch of other stuff that needed to be done after years of hard riding. I spent $1500 and that included a bunch of parts that I changed "just because"

If I were you and my bike currently runs good with a few miles on it, I'd replace the piston and rings ($200), then I'd take the head and get it bead blasted and the valve seats recut ($200). I'd also replace the timing chain and the water pump seal and shaft ($100). You'd be good for another couple thousand miles.


I documented the entire process, including all the embarrassing stuff that was wrong with my bike that probably isn't wrong with yours.

here is the thread...
http://www.thumperta...e__hl__cosmetic


the budget for it is listed here...
http://www.thumperta...e__hl__cosmetic

  • miweber929

Posted July 06, 2012 - 04:22 AM

#9

So I might as well sell it when it hits 6000 miles? Don't feel like spending 3000 to rebuild, when the bike hardly cost any more than that

Yup. If you won't check the valves or learn how to work on it yourself you are far further ahead to sell it to someone who will and get a different bike. Then wreck that one doing it all over again.

You will never truely appreciate riding a motorcycle until you learn to work on one and are blasting down the road on a motor YOU built or fixed yourself. It changes EVERYTHING, in a good way.

  • kawi380

Posted July 06, 2012 - 04:33 AM

#10

08wr450f with 4500 miles on the stock motor. I have purchased the piston, rings, gaskets, cam chain, valves, water pump shaft and gasket, and have started to collect the bearings needed for the bottom end. I think I will but a new rod in there while I'm at it. Most likely will tear into it sometime in the next year. I like to buy my stuff in small increments so it doesn't hurt so bad all at once. :devil:

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Stealth13

Posted July 06, 2012 - 06:17 AM

#11

Maurice 1500 for you is just for parts right? I need to pay 60 an hour for labor for this so it adds up quick

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted July 06, 2012 - 06:59 AM

#12

Maurice 1500 for you is just for parts right? I need to pay 60 an hour for labor for this so it adds up quick


You absolutely need to start wrenching on your own bike. In 05 when I got this wr450, which was my first ever dirt bike, I had never turned a wrench before on a motorcycle. I found Thumpertalk, started asking questions and have done all my work myself ever since.

Its not hard to do at all. Just try it, take pictures and post your questions here. You will be amazed at the help you will get. Again, take pictures and post them and ask tons of questions. Get yourself a manual. If you don't have one, PM me and I will email you one. It tells you everything you need to do, the tools you need and how to do it.

If you pay someone to work on your dirt bike, it should be because you don't have time, not because you don't know how. Working on my own bike is why my 7 year old bike with 10K miles runs and looks almost new.

If you want, I will send you the manual

  • Stealth13

Posted July 06, 2012 - 08:59 AM

#13

I don't feel cOnfident working on the engine, most I did on my bikes is change sprockets/chain, levers, oil, minor adjustments , change rim.

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted July 06, 2012 - 09:18 AM

#14

I don't feel cOnfident working on the engine, most I did on my bikes is change sprockets/chain, levers, oil, minor adjustments , change rim.


Trust me... you can do it. You just need to try. Have some confidence. Everyone who's ever worked on an engine got through their "first time" doing it.

You will save a fortune. When you are ready to give it a try, let us know. You'll have tons of people ready to help you, including me.

Otherwise... get out your checkbook and be prepared to pay.

  • GlennR

Posted July 06, 2012 - 10:13 AM

#15

I think I've asked before, but if you don't have an odometer or an hour meter how do you decide when to rebuild?

As long as you check the valve clearance what will it hurt to wait until the engine begins to loose some compression or begin burning oil?

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted July 06, 2012 - 12:16 PM

#16

I think I've asked before, but if you don't have an odometer or an hour meter how do you decide when to rebuild?

As long as you check the valve clearance what will it hurt to wait until the engine begins to loose some compression or begin burning oil?


You can do a leak down test to tell you about worn components in your engine. Or you can simply rebuild every other season. If it has been a few seasons, then go ahead and pull the head and cylinder and inspect it. You will quickly see what you need.

When the engine first starts losing compression, you will probably not notice it.

It doesn't mean your engine will go boom, it just means that its not running as good as it could be running.

first things first... get an hour meter. They sell the cheap chinese ones on ebay for about 15 shipped. I have a couple of them. I swap it out whenever I put a new piston in any of my bikes. I mount it under the seat. Then you can track the hours and know when to inspect certain parts for wear.

  • Stealth13

Posted July 06, 2012 - 01:02 PM

#17

Not sure but are my road miles easier on it than offroad? That's how I've done 5000km in less than 5 months... It will probably have 10000 just this year alone. Ever since I got it looks like it burns a bit of oil right when I start it then goes away

  • kawi380

Posted July 06, 2012 - 02:31 PM

#18

Not sure but are my road miles easier on it than offroad? That's how I've done 5000km in less than 5 months... It will probably have 10000 just this year alone. Ever since I got it looks like it burns a bit of oil right when I start it then goes away


I would guess that road miles would be worse on the wr than dirt as the rear tire won't slip as much and therefore it will transmit high forces to the drive train components. I cannot say how this will effect your top end but I would think that on the road you run at more constant and sometimes higher rpms than you would on the dirt. That is also worse. Just my $.02 :devil:

  • Pooley

Posted July 07, 2012 - 11:50 AM

#19

I went approximately 9000-10000 miles (2001 through 2010, so roughly 450-550 hours?) of all singletrack riding without ever changing the top end, valves were still in spec, and the only problem I had was that I needed new valve guide seals. I don't overly rev the engine and don't race. I have done all free mods. I bought a new piston and rings before tearing into the motor to do valve guide seals, and it didn't even need it. I changed the cam chain (which WAS needed), piston and rings anyway just because.

Edited by Pooley, July 07, 2012 - 11:54 AM.


  • Hurky

Posted July 08, 2012 - 05:22 AM

#20

My WR450F 2008 has 5645Km with 252 hrs on it, have changed:

- Timing chain about a year ago
- Valve shims adjusted about a year ago

And right now I have the top-end removed and found the cylinder not being in it's best condition and I will opt for an new cyilinder eng going big-bore :devil: , I'm thinking if I should change crankshaft or crankshaft bearings cause the bigbore but I think it's too early to do a low-end with this mileage, don't you think so ?

Regards.




 
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