Would I need surten tools for rebuilding a snowmobiles engine?
Is it hard to rebuild a sleds engine?
Started by
kaedynhonda
, Jun 24 2012 05:25 PM
6 replies to this topic
Posted 25 June 2012 - 06:27 AM
You'll most likely need a primary clutch tool to start with, in order to remove the clutch. What type of engine are you thinking of rebuilding?
Posted 05 July 2012 - 09:56 PM
You dont need a clutch puller. Remove clutch bolt, put some teflon tape on the threads, and then tilt whole sled (or engine if you have it out on its side). Pour some water down in the crank bolt hole opening for the primary bolt and thread in the bolt. Hydrostatic pressure will cause the clutch to pop right off.
Posted 10 July 2012 - 11:09 AM
Depends on the sled, but just like bikes there's certain tools that make the job a lot easier.
A clutch puller is one of those tools. Slide it in, breaker bar to hold the clutch, and crank on the puller till the clutch pops free. With older sleds you can get away with using a bolt, newer sleds you'll likely need the puller to get the clutch off because there's so much force on that taper.
If you're doing a lot of clutch work there's some tools you'll need. Weights in the primary you can change without tools, a rebuild or respring in the primary requires some fixturing and tooling. Helix changes in the secondary are just a few bolts away, but change a spring and you'll need a press.
You may already have many of the tools if you do work on other small engines... gear puller, crows foot puller, air impact gun, fuel line disconnect tool, torque wrenches, a ball hone comes in handy, etc.
On fuel-injected engines, you'll need to adjust the throttle position sensor if you work on the throttle body. With my 900 it was just a fairly accurate 5V power supply and a multimeter that you needed.
A clutch puller is one of those tools. Slide it in, breaker bar to hold the clutch, and crank on the puller till the clutch pops free. With older sleds you can get away with using a bolt, newer sleds you'll likely need the puller to get the clutch off because there's so much force on that taper.
If you're doing a lot of clutch work there's some tools you'll need. Weights in the primary you can change without tools, a rebuild or respring in the primary requires some fixturing and tooling. Helix changes in the secondary are just a few bolts away, but change a spring and you'll need a press.
You may already have many of the tools if you do work on other small engines... gear puller, crows foot puller, air impact gun, fuel line disconnect tool, torque wrenches, a ball hone comes in handy, etc.
On fuel-injected engines, you'll need to adjust the throttle position sensor if you work on the throttle body. With my 900 it was just a fairly accurate 5V power supply and a multimeter that you needed.
Posted 03 September 2012 - 08:16 AM
You have to perswade that clutch tool on occasion, and it's the only option when your fed up!
Posted 06 April 2013 - 09:07 AM
dmm698, on 05 July 2012 - 09:56 PM, said:
You dont need a clutch puller. Remove clutch bolt, put some teflon tape on the threads, and then tilt whole sled (or engine if you have it out on its side). Pour some water down in the crank bolt hole opening for the primary bolt and thread in the bolt. Hydrostatic pressure will cause the clutch to pop right off.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users








View Garage









Follow us: