Yes somewhere I gave a description ...to reiterate the mo- betta porting harness's all the power in a very controllable manner.From bottom to top,smooth power without any hit,putting optimum traction to the ground.

Though I have yet to ride it in the slick nasty stuff with obstacles such as hills,bottlenecks,and other obstacles I feel that this will be a good set-up,I also have the Rekluse which is one of the top bolt on accessories IMO.

Well I sent my cylinder and power valves to EG for a 144. He received them on Tuesday, and shipped on Thursday. He said he already had a bunch of cylinders all done "off the shelf", and only needed a day to do the head.

I bough the cylinder and power valves on ebay cheap (needed replating), and bought a new head from EG for 70. This way I can always put my OEM parts back on if I like. (Better for resale I suppose).

I went for the mo-better porting.

I will be on vacation all next week and then will do the swap some time after that. Will be doing the case mod myself.

I called him today and just for reference the 134 is only $450 vs the $500 for the 144.  If you intended on shipping the engine for the 144 then the 134 would actually be $70-100 cheaper after shipping.

kan3, on 13 August 2012 - 07:05 AM, said:

Yeah, but if you're gonna bore you might as well go for the gusto. The case mod looks really easy. Have you seen pictures of how it's done? I could forward a link.

kan3, was it you that was waiting on infor about using gaskets? Did you get an answer from EG as to whether the low/mid can be made into the mo-better for sure with two additional gaskets?

I asked him and he said similar results.  I'm going to be sending mine in next week.  I only have 13 hours on a new top end with a tin ring and was trying to get my moneys worth out of it but whatever.  I want to get it tuned and a few rides in before winter gets here.

Edited by kan3, 13 August 2012 - 11:49 AM.

kan3, on 13 August 2012 - 11:47 AM, said:

For what it's worth, I literally didn't have to tune anything on mine.  I put a stock pipe on it, jetted to stock and it runs awesome.  I'm no great tuner though, and might not have an incredibly acute sense of subtle jetting changes, but I am happy with it.  If you are in the southwest Michigan area you'd be welcome to give mine a try.  Weird to say, but I guess you're right winter is coming soon, hard to believe after the hot dry summer we had.  So you are going with the mo betta?  What year is your bike?

kan3, on 13 August 2012 - 11:47 AM, said:

Yeah, I couldn't get a definitive answer from him either, so I choose mo-betta since it is a known and proven midrange option, then if I find I really want more bottom I will send it back for a free mod.

poldies4, on 13 August 2012 - 05:45 PM, said:

I'm going with the low/mid and mine is a 2005.  We still have plenty of time to ride but I've been busy this year as have my friends.  Last year we rode all the way till January.  As long as we could get a day that was in mid 30s then it was good.  This year I doubt that will happen.  You're welcome to come with us when we go out.  We live in the tri city area so we don't have a far drive to hit tomahawk, evart or similar.  Just let me know if you want me to send you a msg when we have plans.

kan3, on 13 August 2012 - 07:29 PM, said:

Definitely!  I rode on new years eve last year and it was awesome.  Thanks for the invite!

Cycle playground in PA did mine in may '12 , it came out great, I put 50 hard hrs on it between about 8 Harescrambles and 4hrs a week riding hard... at the very end of Aug I just noticed a little harder starting (2-3 kicks) and somewhat less power so did a piston/ring ect ... all looked fine in there, jus a little blow by.   I go between a 430 and 420 main above 70 degrees and below 70 degrees . I had a JD kit and went back to all stock and it runs better , this was on the advise and help of a local Pro MX'er . Carb all stock... I go between 1&1/2 to 2 turns out air screw (above/below 70 degrees) , needle in 3rd clip position.   Cycle Playground did some grinding on the ports, some below the piston and I believe some small grinding in the bottom end (case) for the 144 to last ... and mine certainly does.  I run AvGas and Dominator 32:1 If you have the money, 144 is worth it ... If you're 160lbs or less i'd prolly keep it a 125 and enjoy the longer/smoother powerband though. The 144 is great if you're 160-185lbs and you need that llittle bit more bottom and low mid ... Above 185 lbs and you're just a bit too big to get the most out of the bike . I run 13/48 or 13/49 depending on the terrain .  The Fatty pipe gave it a bit more power everywhere too . Cycle Playground also did the head mod for a bit more compression, I can get away with 93 pump but it's happier with avgas or race gas .

Edited by avocasingletrack, 11 September 2012 - 04:10 AM.

avocasingletrack, on 10 September 2012 - 07:46 PM, said:

So stock jetting is working best for you?  Are you getting a lot of splooge?  Mine runs crisp at stock setting, but I get a decent amount of it. Even at the track where I can keep the revs up more I get it, but with it running so good I don't want to mess with it.  I might check my reeds, I have an extra set that I think is still good.  The only thing I'm doing different than you is I'm running Klotz Supertech at 32-1 and 93 pump gas..  I'm right about 160 or so, the sweet spot or the 144 and I do love the low-mid port job the Eric Gorr did for me.  It was supposed to be an occasional use trail bike, but I ride it all the time now and my KTM just sits.

I switched out to 14-48 gearing after an unfortunate chain snapping incident, it was stock 13-49, and have been happy with it.  It pulls and grunts pretty good for a little bike.

Edited by poldies4, 11 September 2012 - 02:59 AM.

I had the mid/top job done , I gave them my 125 engine and the athena kit . I figure it's a 125 and i'm still gonna ride it in the mid to top anyway , and thats exactly what I do. As a 144, it just holds the low mid/mid a little better .  As for the jetting , the only thing I've needed to do is that I switch between a 420 and 430 main in spring fall... like right about now as the temps are cooling off, when it's consistently below 70 i'll be switching the main back...and in spring as it's consistently above 70, I notice it gets a little "flat" throttle response and its time to switch the main again... then mid summer as it gets hot , consistently 80 , I got out to 1&3/4 to 2 turns out , you can hear the snappy, crisp throttle response return .  Also, in 80's+ temps , I start mixing in U4.4 and I run it straight for races . Below 80, it really likes Avgas or C12 if you have the $$$
I get very little spooge, a little occasionally could be if im not on my game that day , idk ? . Did gorr do the head mod for you ? If not, Cycle Playground can do the head, its simple and cheap and you definitely feel more hit ... If you have a small plane airport by you, go there and get some AvGas , it's only $6/gal and 100 octane, no ethanol so also runs cooler. Lasts a year with no breakdown . Itsa good priced, good race fuel alternative
http://cycleplayground.com/ <----they do really good engine work , I see boxes with "names you'd know" from nationwide and worldwide , call Mike

Edited by avocasingletrack, 11 September 2012 - 04:11 AM.

poldies4, on 11 September 2012 - 02:55 AM, said:

avocasingletrack, on 11 September 2012 - 04:00 AM, said:

Everyone seems to love whatever option they choose. Sometimes I wonder if they are really all ported the same and each sees what he wants to see ;-)

rjpjnk, on 11 September 2012 - 04:51 AM, said:

I know the guy that did mine , I was there during the grinding/milling . They showed me the differences , and the owner previously raced AA and "overalled" on a 144 so If I didnt see it myself i'd prolly agree with you

avocasingletrack, on 11 September 2012 - 04:56 AM, said:

Really, I'm just joking. I'm sure there must be some difference, but it is frustrating to me (as an engineer myself) to not be able to hold it in my hand and measure it.

What differences did they show you?

Give them a call , they can explain it very well . There is actually alot of science behind it . They can explain port timing and how the sonic shock wave comes back down the expansion chamber toward the ports and how subtle changes affect things.  I didn't just accept things, I wanted to know and see "why" ... From what I remember, if you rode agressive, they recommended the mid/top ... even with the low/mid porting , a 125/144 still makes the meat of it's power in mid to top so a mid/top porting is going to enhance what it naturally does already while still getting more low mid to mid anyway . No matter what you do, you're never gonna get bottom out of a 125/144 . I ended up with more low mid to mid and the top end seems about the same which is fine. The higher compression head helps alot too , they adjust the squish and measure it in ml's with liquid ... pretty neat
very good engine work , had 3 engines done there and happy with all.   http://cycleplayground.com/

avocasingletrack, on 11 September 2012 - 04:00 AM, said:

I did not have any head work done to my knowledge.  That being said the head that came back to me looked new on the inside, and the one I sent with the motor was pretty torn up.
Old

New

Dirty, but you get the idea.  Is there any way to know if it's machined or replaced?  My understanding is they shave the head to reduce squish to up compression?  I like the low end nature of the bike as is, so what specifically would the head mod do in respect to that?  I had EG set it up for pump gas, would using Avgas change much?  Do I continue to mix at 32-1, or does the different fuel alter that?  Sorry about all the questions, here's one more.  I figured going with the standard compression and pump gas would build a reliable motor?  Now I'm wondering what I'm missing.  Maybe the KTM needs to go and I need another YZ 144 with a different porting option.  

  I thought hard about doing the Athena kit and having a builder install it.  It would have cost a little more but I would still have the 125 top end to sell or re-use.  I decided to have EG do a turnkey engine for me to minimize the hassle.  It still ended up being a little bit of a pain but I'm happy with the results so far.

I'm wondering if the sparky I'm using isn't contributing to the splooge issue.  I might throw the shorty on for the next ride and see if that eliminates a little of it.  Next I guess I'll check out the reeds, I had no idea they should be done with each top end?  Read that somewhere on here and that's the first I'd heard about it, I always assumed they were good or bad.

They mill the head a little but then they raise and squish back up (combustion bowl) that you have pictured there . I'd give them a call , they can explain it alot better than me. You can have your head done even if you already had that other work done . You will definitely feel an increase in power everywhere, and more low end . Like I said, I just got over 50 hrs out of my head modded 144 , hard riding . I had a higher comp head in 3 bikes so far , all no probs ... Avgas and 32:1 dominator . Run a good synthetic premix 32:1 .   You can run AvGas with no problem , especially below 70 degrees . AvGas runs cooler , no ethanol , it's very consistent and very stable over time . It's like $6 a gallon , not too bad. I do 3 rides between gear case oil changes or 1 race and 1 ride .... Lucas synthetic 80/85 , or belray gearsaver 80/85
I'd run 32:1 in a 200 also . I donno whats causing that spooge ... you just dont wanna be running lean .  You gotta get hooked up with a vet 2 stroke racer that did their own work , 99 percent of people who say they know , dont know how to jet a carb . I kno a guy who was a pro MX'er 10 years , he came over with a little box of jets, rode the bike quick, had my carb apart in 5 min and said "now it will be daed on, you wont even know its the same bike"   ... thats before he even started it. One kick later and I could easily hear the instantaneous response to a tiny throttle blip . Guys that raced 2 strokes on the 80's/90's usually know how to jet . You will also have a "Below 70" and an "Above 70" jetting . My carb is basically all stock and all stock settings except I toggle between a 420 and 430 main for above and below 70 seasons... and go between 1&1/2 and 2 turns out on the air screw above and below 70 degrees seasons ... Thats one change about every 6 months . Needle stays in 3rd clip position .
You can tell in late spring your throttle response gets a little flat and time to switch the main . Then the opposite mid/end of sept .  and the small air screw adjust . Should be the same basic idea on different bikes . You could get really complicated and jet daily...but these 2 settings work well for me on average for the season

Edited by avocasingletrack, 11 September 2012 - 05:13 PM.