52T rear sprocket and chain support


16 replies to this topic
  • td42ti

Posted June 21, 2012 - 12:34 AM

#1

I'm just fitting up a 52T rear sprocket for the tight conditions I am riding and have noticed that the chain puts slight pressure on the chain support (the one on the underside of the rear arm, circled in red in the picture)
The picture is a stock one and it seems to show slight pressure on the chain from the support.

Is this a problem or should I run without the chain support?

Posted Image

Edited by td42ti, June 21, 2012 - 12:34 AM.


  • MANIAC998

Posted June 21, 2012 - 02:59 AM

#2

I wouldn't run without some kind of chain guide on there. Perhaps you can move your rear axle more rearward to relieve the pressure? Or try a TM Designs one. They might have more clearance, but I have no idea if they do or not.
Maniac

  • allterra

Posted June 21, 2012 - 03:01 AM

#3

no harm it will just wear it a little quicker. I ran a 54 on my yz for a while and there was a noticeable angle off the guide to the rear chain ring. A friend of mine did the same except he bought a roller guide. we did almost all our rideing at the same time and places we both had to replace the guide componets at about the same time. slides and rollers both wore out the slides were more obvious visually and the rollers wre out on the spindals in side the rollers. it took 2 sets of chain and sprockets to kill the guides. we both run dry chain.

  • allterra

Posted June 21, 2012 - 03:09 AM

#4

As Maniac said don't run without the guide you risk getting a stick stone or part of something the chain and sprocket. best results would be you have an unexpected instant rear wheel skid. worst case would be a unrepairable engine and trainy.

Edited by allterra, June 21, 2012 - 03:10 AM.


  • td42ti

Posted June 21, 2012 - 03:22 AM

#5

Excellent, thanks guys, I'll leave it on there. With the 52 I am going to have to go for a slightly longer chain so I will get it so the axle is as far back as possible.

  • kawi380

Posted June 21, 2012 - 02:17 PM

#6

Excellent, thanks guys, I'll leave it on there. With the 52 I am going to have to go for a slightly longer chain so I will get it so the axle is as far back as possible.


I run a 52 for my Moab trips twice a year. I use a chain with a few more links and have had 0 issues :devil:

  • Taxgod4u

Posted June 22, 2012 - 08:43 AM

#7

can I hijack for a bit, my question is not worth a new topic...
I want to drop from my stock 13 tooth front sprocket to a 12. concerned it may be shrap of curve for chain. (prefer not to add teeth to rear) is a 12T okay?

one moreQ, is ther any brands to avoid or to look for? I see alot of cheap looking steel ones...

Edited by Taxgod4u, June 22, 2012 - 10:03 AM.


  • allterra

Posted June 22, 2012 - 01:23 PM

#8

I use to run a 12T on my YZ never had a prob. I personaly like the steel front sprockets. I don't think they wear as quickly.

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  • td42ti

Posted June 22, 2012 - 04:05 PM

#9

Steel all the way, front and rear. Slightly more weight but they last so much longer and are a lot more durable.

Unless you are top level and trying to shed every ounce off the bike the steel is best. And if you are top level you would be replacing the chan and sprockets much more often anyway to keep eveything at its optimal.

  • td42ti

Posted June 22, 2012 - 11:21 PM

#10

Got out for a ride, I love the pace I can ride (i.e really slow) on very tight rocky technical sections, but the 52T really gets that wheel spinning instead of lifting the front wheel! I will just have to adjust my riding a bit and shift my weight back a bit to get better traction (and lighten the front wheel so I shouldn't need to go back too far)
Overall I am happy but I imagine as soon as I move back down south (end of the year) I will swap back to the standard 50T.

  • allterra

Posted June 23, 2012 - 12:39 AM

#11

Got out for a ride, I love the pace I can ride (i.e really slow) on very tight rocky technical sections, but the 52T really gets that wheel spinning instead of lifting the front wheel! I will just have to adjust my riding a bit and shift my weight back a bit to get better traction (and lighten the front wheel so I shouldn't need to go back too far)
Overall I am happy but I imagine as soon as I move back down south (end of the year) I will swap back to the standard 50T.



LOL That is funny I went from a 52 to a 48 and found the same results... on my YZ I had to go w/52 just to keep the motor running. so when I picked up this WR I went right out and bought a 52 installed it before I eaven took it out in the trails. I did not take in to account the Revloc clutch or wider gear ratio. I was doing fine in the trails but then I plated the bike. It seemed like it was screaming at 50 mph (80km). so to save the engine I decided that during the week (fireroads and commute to work) I would run the 48T and switch to the 52T for the weekend (tight single track breaking trail ect.. real off road). Well yesterday I went up into the trails w/ 48T on and found my bike with the wheel in the air all the time logs that the front wheel would just clear before it is now lofting over them. Muck holes I just cleared with the 52T I had to contiously remember to set it down. and w/ the Revloc I was still able to pick and choose my way through the rocks and brush. I am really impressed twith the bike now I don't think I'll change back. ENJOY

  • td42ti

Posted June 23, 2012 - 02:00 AM

#12

LOL That is funny I went from a 52 to a 48 and found the same results... on my YZ I had to go w/52 just to keep the motor running. so when I picked up this WR I went right out and bought a 52 installed it before I eaven took it out in the trails. I did not take in to account the Revloc clutch or wider gear ratio. I was doing fine in the trails but then I plated the bike. It seemed like it was screaming at 50 mph (80km). so to save the engine I decided that during the week (fireroads and commute to work) I would run the 48T and switch to the 52T for the weekend (tight single track breaking trail ect.. real off road). Well yesterday I went up into the trails w/ 48T on and found my bike with the wheel in the air all the time logs that the front wheel would just clear before it is now lofting over them. Muck holes I just cleared with the 52T I had to contiously remember to set it down. and w/ the Revloc I was still able to pick and choose my way through the rocks and brush. I am really impressed twith the bike now I don't think I'll change back. ENJOY

Yeah, makes me think maybe a 51 would have been better! The steep rocky technical downhill that I was having to clutch all the time in first is now ok in second.
I'll give it a while and see how I go. Don't really go above 50mph much in my riding area so top speed is not an issue, but lofting the front wheel over washouts and logs certainly is!

  • td42ti

Posted June 23, 2012 - 10:30 PM

#13

Took it out again today. I really think a 51 would have been the best bet, but I can certainly live with the 52. The more I ride it the more I will adjust my riding to suit it. I was getting the front up a lot easier today, using a different part of the rev range.

  • MANIAC998

Posted June 24, 2012 - 05:53 PM

#14

I run a 51, and for my terrain, I don't think I can gear it any better. A Rekluse will help too.
Maniac

  • MaxPower

Posted June 26, 2012 - 04:56 PM

#15

Steel all the way, front and rear. Slightly more weight but they last so much longer and are a lot more durable.

Unless you are top level and trying to shed every ounce off the bike the steel is best. And if you are top level you would be replacing the chan and sprockets much more often anyway to keep eveything at its optimal.

I used to run steel all the time in the rear. I had a flat and swiped the rear wheel from my YZ. It had a lighter tire, aluminum sprocket and standard tube. I could not believe the difference the first set of whoops I blew through. The weight was almost a 3 lb difference but it felt like 15. I never realized how much the suspension was effected by unsprung weight.

And as WR owners, we should be conscience of every ounce of weight. Our bikes are way too heavy

  • Randwulf

Posted April 02, 2013 - 04:54 PM

#16

I just got back from the Mojave and struggled a bit riding tight single track with the stock 50/13 drive sprocket setup. There's quite a lot of talk and opinions about sprocket sizing and I was having trouble getting it straight, so I did some calculations that I thought I'd share with y'all.



Drive Ratio (actual)
12 13 14 15 stock ratio
47 3.92 3.62 3.36 3.13 50/13= 3.85
48 4.00 3.69 3.43 3.20
49 4.08 3.77 3.50 3.27
50 4.17 3.85 3.57 3.33
51 4.25 3.92 3.64 3.40
52 4.33 4.00 3.71 3.47
53 4.42 4.08 3.79 3.53

Drive Ratio (% change from stock)
12 13 14 15
47 1.8% -6.0% -12.7% -18.5%
48 4.0% -4.0% -10.9% -16.8%
49 6.2% -2.0% -9.0% -15.1%
50 8.3% 0.0% -7.1% -13.3%
51 10.5% 2.0% -5.3% -11.6%
52 12.7% 4.0% -3.4% -9.9%
53 14.8% 6.0% -1.6% -8.1%

I think I've decided to go with the 52 tooth rear sprocket which is a 4% increase in drive ratio. This gives me about 100 rpm more at the same crawl speed compared to the 50 tooth sprocket.

Edited by Randwulf, April 02, 2013 - 05:00 PM.


  • Mtn-Track

Posted April 03, 2013 - 06:29 AM

#17

I've had the 51 rear for several years with the stock guide. Some wear on the outside of the chain but minimal. Still running the original guide too. I also changed the front to a 12T without any problems and it will seriously tractor up anything the 6-speed KTM's will and still top out just under 80mph. Couldn't be happier with the results!


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