Hey whats up t- talk i recently jetted my 07 yz450f because it was running lean.After that the bike wouldn't start.I did some research on here and read a post about trying to start it cold with the hot starter, I did and it actually started when i kicked but then it died when I let the hot starter go.
Jetting
Bike: 07 YZ450
Main Jet: 160
Pilot Jet: 45
Needle: NFLR
Clip: 4th
I live In alcalde new mexico.Where at 5712 elevation, its usually about 90°F and about 9% humidity
Well i hope someone can help.
Cheers
tyger
Rejetted bike now it wont start
Started by
tyger
, Jun 20 2012 06:27 PM
19 replies to this topic
Posted 20 June 2012 - 09:43 PM
Adjust your fuel screw.
How do know it was running lean?
The jetting you posted IS lean, so what did you have??
How do know it was running lean?
The jetting you posted IS lean, so what did you have??
Posted 21 June 2012 - 08:29 AM
Before it was at 168 main, 48 pilot jet and red marked needle with clip in third posistion.It ran but my bike would get really hot.If I choppped the throttle the bike would bog.When I would slow down there was a lot of poppin.I knew my bike had to be rejetted but not sure to what.
i know 2 guys that have my same bike and year, there both stock like mine but there sounds real nice when they punch on the throttle.Theres sound like brAAATT !!! when i hit the throttle min always sounds like breeet!!
Asked him about his jetting but they didnt't know also i notice they didnt have fuel screws in theres
i know 2 guys that have my same bike and year, there both stock like mine but there sounds real nice when they punch on the throttle.Theres sound like brAAATT !!! when i hit the throttle min always sounds like breeet!!
Asked him about his jetting but they didnt't know also i notice they didnt have fuel screws in theres
Posted 21 June 2012 - 09:23 AM
A 150 main is leaner as is the 45 pilot jet.
If you do not know what you are doing, you should never, ever make changes like you did. Jetting has very little influence on running temps. Speed you travel on the other hand does. Put your bike back the way it was
A bog is a poorly set up AP. Decel popping is normal though it can be minimized by confirming you have no exhaust leaks and the packing is in serviceable condition.
If you do not know what you are doing, you should never, ever make changes like you did. Jetting has very little influence on running temps. Speed you travel on the other hand does. Put your bike back the way it was
A bog is a poorly set up AP. Decel popping is normal though it can be minimized by confirming you have no exhaust leaks and the packing is in serviceable condition.
Posted 21 June 2012 - 09:29 AM
Like a said man i know 2 other dudes that have the same bike and year as mine but there seems to run way better its hard to explain but if feels like there has more balls, my bike aint running to its full potential.but thanks man
Posted 21 June 2012 - 09:42 AM
i think he,s telling you you leaned it out too much.you describe symptoms of lean jetting.i bet your friends bikes have stock jetting and are running better than yours.
Posted 21 June 2012 - 09:56 AM
Oh crap I forgot to mention, another reason i did this because the full screw was at three.
Posted 21 June 2012 - 11:41 AM
.
So if your friends all crash on a triple, you will do the same?
You asked for advice. Two people (as well as your own bike) told you that you've made a major jetting mishap. No amount of pleading to us or your bike is going to make your friends misguided advice make it magically fix things. Think. Your bike ran fine before. You assume it ran hot (did you check the actual temps?) You assume it is from jetting and you proceed to lean it out and now it runs poorly.
You say your fiuel screw was at 'three' I assume you mean three full turns and not just that you could see the number '3'. How often do you set the screw and what method do you use?
So if your friends all crash on a triple, you will do the same?
You asked for advice. Two people (as well as your own bike) told you that you've made a major jetting mishap. No amount of pleading to us or your bike is going to make your friends misguided advice make it magically fix things. Think. Your bike ran fine before. You assume it ran hot (did you check the actual temps?) You assume it is from jetting and you proceed to lean it out and now it runs poorly.
You say your fiuel screw was at 'three' I assume you mean three full turns and not just that you could see the number '3'. How often do you set the screw and what method do you use?
Posted 21 June 2012 - 12:21 PM
That bike at 6,000 feet takes a 155 main.
The YZ's are usually one step leaner than a CRF 450. If you are at a 160, you are plenty rich. Something else is wrong.
Your bike will run with a 45 pilot at 2.0 turns. You have some minute fine tuning to do, but start there and see how it responds.
The YZ's are usually one step leaner than a CRF 450. If you are at a 160, you are plenty rich. Something else is wrong.
Your bike will run with a 45 pilot at 2.0 turns. You have some minute fine tuning to do, but start there and see how it responds.
Posted 23 June 2012 - 01:28 PM
I changed back everything to what it was originally , it still wont start I been messing with the fuel screw but i realized you can keep on twisting it over and over.How many turns do have to put it in to have it going well agian ?
what i was doing was twisting it untill it stops then i un screwing it little by little but that seems to be taking eternity.Shit what did i get myself into :/
what i was doing was twisting it untill it stops then i un screwing it little by little but that seems to be taking eternity.Shit what did i get myself into :/
Posted 23 June 2012 - 04:08 PM
1.5 to start.
Then set it for the highest idle with a hot engine.
Then blip the throttle several times and repeat, dropping the idle with the IDLE SCREW as needed.
It will take 5 min of adjusting to get it right. You are looking for fast idle drop, and smoothest idle. 1/8 turns to find the 'sweet spot'.
If you bike is down on power, maybe you should ask your self if it's time for a new piston/rings?
If it starts hard, you should be looking at the valve clearances?
Then set it for the highest idle with a hot engine.
Then blip the throttle several times and repeat, dropping the idle with the IDLE SCREW as needed.
It will take 5 min of adjusting to get it right. You are looking for fast idle drop, and smoothest idle. 1/8 turns to find the 'sweet spot'.
If you bike is down on power, maybe you should ask your self if it's time for a new piston/rings?
If it starts hard, you should be looking at the valve clearances?
Edited by Krannie, 23 June 2012 - 04:09 PM.
Posted 23 June 2012 - 04:11 PM
tyger, on 21 June 2012 - 08:29 AM, said:
Before it was at 168 main, 48 pilot jet and red marked needle with clip in third posistion.It ran but my bike would get really hot.If I choppped the throttle the bike would bog.When I would slow down there was a lot of poppin.I knew my bike had to be rejetted but not sure to what.
i know 2 guys that have my same bike and year, there both stock like mine but there sounds real nice when they punch on the throttle.Theres sound like brAAATT !!! when i hit the throttle min always sounds like breeet!!
Asked him about his jetting but they didnt't know also i notice they didnt have fuel screws in theres
i know 2 guys that have my same bike and year, there both stock like mine but there sounds real nice when they punch on the throttle.Theres sound like brAAATT !!! when i hit the throttle min always sounds like breeet!!
Asked him about his jetting but they didnt't know also i notice they didnt have fuel screws in theres
Your issue is not jetting, it's a clogged pilot passage, and probably a stuck or corroded hot start plunger.
Posted 24 June 2012 - 11:57 AM
Krannie, on 23 June 2012 - 04:11 PM, said:
Your issue is not jetting, it's a clogged pilot passage, and probably a stuck or corroded hot start plunger.
thats crazy that you say that man, you must know your bike well.Today I was looking at my bike and i notice that the hot start nut that connects to the carb is stripped and not tight in place, could this really be the prolem ? I have been looking on ebay and i found a really cheap one but im not sure if its for my carb type.
http://www.ebay.com/...b7cdbd1&vxp=mtr
Posted 24 June 2012 - 05:45 PM
Every part of the carb affects every other part of the carb (more or less).
If you want it to work correctly, you need to get intimate with every part of the carb, and make sure it works as designed.
EVERY FCR carb eventually has this problem, unless you do preventative maintenance.
If you want it to work correctly, you need to get intimate with every part of the carb, and make sure it works as designed.
EVERY FCR carb eventually has this problem, unless you do preventative maintenance.
Posted 25 June 2012 - 05:26 AM
Yes that will fit, but that is not the only issue. You cable may be frozen, you plunger may be corroded or dry.
Posted 28 July 2012 - 09:11 AM
So the other day i took the carb out and i realized that the wall that moves up and down in the carb wasn't attach to the little arms with wheels that connect to the throttle cable.That explains why it would only start with the hot start.
So I have the bike running now.
So I have the bike running now.
Posted 28 July 2012 - 01:12 PM
tyger, on 28 July 2012 - 09:11 AM, said:
So the other day i took the carb out and i realized that the wall that moves up and down in the carb wasn't attach to the little arms with wheels that connect to the throttle cable.That explains why it would only start with the hot start.
So I have the bike running now.
So I have the bike running now.
