How I remove swing arm bolts


8 replies to this topic
  • GEOF

Posted 15 June 2012 - 06:14 PM

#1

Well there has been a lot of discussion on how to remove those stuck swing arm bolts. This is how I do it. Big G clamp and CRC penetrate.
Click on thumb nail to enlarge.
This bolt has already been loosen to remove the engine and this is a good time to show you what is in there and what the problem is that causes the bolt to seize. You can use heat also to help expand some areas but the culprit for this problem is the tube going through the rear engine mount so heat is not of much use here. This bolt was soaked and sprayed every night for about two weeks before I put the clamp on it.
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First remove the shock from the swing arm.
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There is an internal hole through the bolt and the very ends are great as you can use the ball of the G clamp to center the clamp.

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The sides of the frame in this area will splay apart if they are not tied together, I.e G clamp or resting on the ground. They need to be captivated or the banging movement from using just a hammer and a punch will push the two sides apart and with no tension applied the bolt and frame will just flex and break.
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The bolt recess in the frame is just enough to get the first crack to get the bolt moving. You are good for about 8-10mm of movement before you may need a spacer.
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If you look between the sides of the frame and on the bolt you will see a section of tube that goes through the engine. This is the culprit. It has no where to go when trying to punch it out with a hammer and 9 x out of 10 it is effectively welded on with rust and lack of lubrication.
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Distance available to get the bolt started.
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Outside measurement of frame to get the right clamp. Most heavy engineering shops will have these clamps you can hire.
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It is a big clamp and the help of an assistant is required to get the best results.

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This bolt has been put in from the incorrect side for the purpose of this explanation. It should be installed from left to right not as shown from right to left.
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Center the ball of the clamp into the center hole and align the other side of the clamp onto the frame where the bolt will move through. You may need a steel plate to make an even purchase. Apply pressure, after letting the bolt soak over night in a freeing agent, and with the two sides now captivated an even and slow amount of pressure can be applied to slowly move the bolt.
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After you have tighten it up as much as you can by hand, and if the bolt has not already moved, use the assistance of a big hollow pipe to apply extra moment force to brake the resistance on the sleeve and bolt in the engine. Wear earmuffs and safety glasses because the chances are it will make a loud bang/crack when it lets go.
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It is important to take your time to ensure the clamp is applying a direct and even force through the center line of the bolt, so double check the clamp is centered. If not it may roll of the frame and damage the engine.
Quick walk around video. It is an XR 250 not 200 as I have stated in the video.

The thumbnail below shows the center sleeve through the rear engine mount.

Attached Thumbnails

  • sa6.jpg

Edited by GEOF, 15 June 2012 - 07:46 PM.


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  • GEOF

Posted 15 June 2012 - 10:46 PM

#2

Posted a walk around video

  • GU520

Posted 16 June 2012 - 01:03 AM

#3

Great write up...

  • Michaeb

Posted 16 June 2012 - 01:34 AM

#4

Thanks for posting the Geof, I have a mate dropping off a G clamp for me so will give this a try during the week.

Is it really necessary to remove the spring?

  • GEOF

Posted 16 June 2012 - 02:19 AM

#5

No may not be. If the clamp will fit in then no need to remove. Just do it slowly and soak the shaft for about two or three nights if it is stubborn. You will need a pipe or bar to get more force when turning the thread. If the clamp has a flat swivel on the threaded end you will need to remove it and expose the ball on the end of the thread. You will need the ball to line it all up. Let me know how you go.

  • GEOF

Posted 16 June 2012 - 02:22 AM

#6

Here is another little tool made. A $3.00 fly wheel puller.
http://www.thumperta...__fromsearch__1

  • ozcalxr4

Posted 16 June 2012 - 11:47 AM

#7

great stuff geof.. cheers

  • GEOF

Posted 16 June 2012 - 02:07 PM

#8

Cheers thanks. I hope it helps some people out.

  • GEOF

Posted 26 June 2012 - 02:28 AM

#9

Michaeb, on 16 June 2012 - 01:34 AM, said:

Thanks for posting the Geof, I have a mate dropping off a G clamp for me so will give this a try during the week.

Is it really necessary to remove the spring?
How did the g clamp removal go??




 
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