Blind hole bearing removal... home made tool?


25 replies to this topic
  • wes77

Posted June 13, 2012 - 09:46 AM

#1

Just curious if there is a way to get the large blind hole trans bearing out that sits right behind the clutch actuator in the left hand case? Don't have the mula for a puller. Tried heating the case with propane torch, even prying, but no luck. Do not want to dame the case. Any help, tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Also... does anyone know where I can get bearings for less than 20-40 bucks a piece? These things are going to kill my meager budget.

98 KX250

Thanks.

  • SS109

Posted June 13, 2012 - 10:03 AM

#2

Let me guess, that is the small needle pin bearing on the left side case half, right? Just went through this myself on my KDX. It has the same type of trans bearing. I tried heating it and using the "hydraulic pressure" method but couldn't get it to even budge. Maybe heat and a slide hammer would have worked if you could get hooked on the back of it. I gave up and had a shop do it for $10. Well worth it IMO!

  • wes77

Posted June 13, 2012 - 01:01 PM

#3

no it is actually a larger ball bearing. There is a hole in the middle, but it goes into the hole that the clutch lever arm drops into. Tried the hydraulic pressure method, didn't work... I emailed a local shop, but no reply yet.

  • SS109

Posted June 13, 2012 - 02:23 PM

#4

OK, I know which one you are talking about now. I'm not real fond of using a torch to heat the case as it doesn't do it evenly. Heating in an oven at 225 for about an hour works great IME. I would try oven heating like I said, get someone to hold the case (with gloves of course!) for you while you use a slide hammer to pop it out.

Edited by SS109, June 13, 2012 - 02:23 PM.


  • MrBlahh

Posted June 13, 2012 - 02:49 PM

#5

slide hammer puller, just go buy one they are not that much

  • Smacaroni

Posted June 15, 2012 - 04:17 AM

#6

If you can figure out how to get a hold of the back side, you can make a slide-hammer with a large bolt, some washers and a socket.
Posted Image
How you're gonna get a hold of the back side though is another issue.

  • KDXGarage

Posted June 15, 2012 - 08:07 AM

#7

You may get by cheaper on that one bearing by taking it to someone.

  • Corus

Posted June 16, 2012 - 09:50 PM

#8

If you have access to a slide hammer and a mig welder there's a easy way of getting bearings out that the hook attachments can't reach behind.

Find a nut that will thread onto the slide hammer, find a bolt of an appropriate size that will just fit inside the bearing. Weld the bolt to the slide hammer nut. Then you can weld the bolt and nut assembly to the bearing you need to remove And then you can attach the slide hamMer. When you'rewelding in the case try not to put current through the case and don't use massive welds, you wouldn't wanna warp the cases.

  • GEOF

Posted June 16, 2012 - 10:07 PM

#9

I am not sure if this will work for you as the internal bearing ID may be too big but you can get very large versions of this.

Click the thread.
http://www.thumperta...__fromsearch__1

  • GEOF

Posted June 16, 2012 - 10:11 PM

#10

I will try to post a You Tube Video of this. Chances are if you could not get it with a press then this may not work.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • GEOF

Posted June 16, 2012 - 10:28 PM

#11

Try this.



https://www.facebook.com/CleanRebuilds

  • GEOF

Posted June 18, 2012 - 01:06 AM

#12

I wonder what this guy did about the blind hole bearing.

Just curious if there is a way to get the large blind hole trans bearing out that sits right behind the clutch actuator in the left hand case? Don't have the mula for a puller. Tried heating the case with propane torch, even prying, but no luck. Do not want to dame the case. Any help, tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Also... does anyone know where I can get bearings for less than 20-40 bucks a piece? These things are going to kill my meager budget.

98 KX250

Thanks.



  • wes77

Posted June 19, 2012 - 06:11 AM

#13

Thanks for all of the advice guys. Here's the plan... i'm planning to weld a piece of 3.8" steel rod to a washer(s), then weld the washer(s) to the bearing, then put a socket on the rod as shown above, weld another washer in place on the end and slide hammer the bearing out. cut to remove socket...

I can't imagine it is in there too terribly snug being the case is aluminum, but you never know. I got all of the little bearings out from the blind holes using a hook type device made from a ground down bolt and hammering upward against a vise grip that was secured to it horizantally. This larger bearing is a different story though. roughly 3/4 the size of the crank bearings. Needs more force to come out.

Hopefully this works. If anyone has warnings, I am all ears. Planning to do in the next day or two. Thanks again.

-Wes

  • Smacaroni

Posted June 19, 2012 - 06:38 AM

#14

Sounds like it would work.
As far as where to buy new ones, a motor/bearing shop may very well stock the sizes you need, not all, but many of the bearings which should be cheaper than from the dealer.

  • wes77

Posted June 20, 2012 - 10:24 AM

#15

Well... I tried using my father in laws arc welder, but could not do anything but stick the welding rod to the 1/2" steel rod I was planning to use. I have welded many times when younger... It is a small hobby style welder. Kept turning up the power and stick... stick... stick.... Figured if I couldn't even tack the washer to the rod, it wasn't worth trying to tack anything to the bearing. Don't have access to another welder...

So... thinking about buying the harbor freight blind hole bearing puller... The back of the bearing is bottomed out flat against the cases so I can't get behind it really, but there is the radius on the back of the inner race to grab with the puller. Not much, but it's there. Do you guys think the bearing puller tangs would hold on that small radius?

My other option is to put it on a hot plate and heat the whole case, then smack it down on wood blocks... That is what the local powersport tech said he would do. I didn't want to wreck the needle bearings in the case though with the heat (more $$ I don't have) and then if I have to remove them, I would be stuck buying the bearing puller anyway (I would think)... There is one in the case and two others in the clutch actuator hole... I heated up the case around this bearing with a propane torch and the bearing rusted... I assume if I heat the whole case, the others will also. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again.

  • Smacaroni

Posted June 20, 2012 - 10:44 AM

#16

Did you watch that video? Definitely worth trying for a dollar.
http://www.thumperta...st__p__10113145

  • wes77

Posted June 20, 2012 - 11:10 AM

#17

all of the videos I have seen have been for bearings that you can get behind. They may be for blind holes, but the blind hole does not stop at the back of the bearing. There is clearance to push a tool into the hole and grab the back lip of the bearing. This bearing is flat against the case, you cannot get behind it except for the little radius on the back of the inner race. That and it is about 5/8" on the inner diameter and over an inch on the outer. It is a big bearing.

I looked up anchor bolts, but it doesn't seem as though anyone carries them near me in sizes near the one I need. If anyone knows where I can get an anchor bolt in a 5/8" diameter, I will give it a shot.

here's a youtube video of the case.
You can see the bearing, it is the smaller of the two on the inside of the transmission, the first one i point in the video. Only three are shown, large trans, smaller trans and crank. It will give you an idea of how it is bottomed out agains the case.

  • wes77

Posted June 20, 2012 - 12:29 PM

#18

by the way, I did remove the screws and keepers before attempting removal :ride: just wanted to make sure you guys didn't think I was a complete tool :devil:

  • GEOF

Posted June 20, 2012 - 03:24 PM

#19

Okay.... if it was me I would be heating the case in the oven to about 100°c and I would remove it with welding gloves and I would use either that original tool you made to try to pry it out or I would be gently tapping on the case with a rubber mallet to see if it will go, or a combination of both.
You could try applying heat to that area with a propane torch once it is heated to 100°c in the oven and it may drop out. Be very careful not to go too hot with the propan gun and I would not use the gun on a cold case.
Do you have and engineering shop that could do this for you?? Maybe a silly question. It might only cost you $20.00 to get it out.

  • KDXGarage

Posted June 20, 2012 - 03:29 PM

#20

no1clyde recommended one to me that was even better than the Harbor Freight one. It had more collets. Maybe he will chime in, It was around $80, maybe available from Rocky Mountain??





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