Black oil !


19 replies to this topic
  • E4x4Eric

Posted June 12, 2012 - 07:18 PM

#1

Why is the engine oil gets really dark and black in less than 500 miles? Is this normal......?

  • ZGILBERT93

Posted June 12, 2012 - 07:20 PM

#2

500 miles.... I would say yes.

  • MANIAC998

Posted June 13, 2012 - 03:44 AM

#3

Yes, 500 miles is a long time to go without doing an oil change on a WR. The oil capacity on modern dirtbikes is small, so the oil gets contaminated rather quickly. Especially since, it has to cool/lube the engine, clutch, tranny, etc.. Most of us change our oil every couple of hours of running time, which is probably equal to somewhere around 100 miles on average.
Maniac

  • GuyGraham

Posted June 13, 2012 - 03:50 AM

#4

The oil turns black from the by products of the combustion process (carbon)
Sounds like you have blow by, past your rings, which is allowing combustion gases & by products to get to the oil

For it to be black in 500 miles something is wrong
I normlly change mine every 10 hours and it is just a little darker than when I put it in (10 hours is about 200 - 300 miles depending upon the type ans speed of the course)

  • miweber929

Posted June 13, 2012 - 04:26 AM

#5

Depends on the oil, the Mobil 1 full synthetic I run in the cars turns black at 2-3,000 miles but still protects just fine. Amsoil does as well.

But 500 mikes is a bit much on the quart of oil the WR holds.

Mike

  • grayracer513

Posted June 13, 2012 - 08:19 AM

#6

Oil turns black for a variety of reasons, most of which depend on the particular oil being used. Obviously, physical contamination will eventually cause this, but so will other less worrisome things. Exposure to fuel residue is all it takes in some cases, and EVERY engine will dump gas in the oil on a cold start. Given enough time at operating temperature, the fuel will boil off, but some oils are permanently discolored by that even though no real harm has come to it. Some oils get dark as a result of being heated. Sometimes it's an indication of damage to the oil, and sometimes it's not.

Unless your WR spends at least half its run time on the road, 500 miles is too far to run on most oils. The big issue is how well it holds up in the transmission, as most all automotive and diesel oils and probably half the available MC oils loose viscosity due to the shearing in the gearbox. Ten hours would be the high limit for something like Mobil1 motorcycle blends or Amsoil Synthetic Motorcycle oil.

  • Stealth13

Posted June 13, 2012 - 08:48 AM

#7

I've been doing mine every 600 miles but topping off a little bit mid way through since it's either burning some or using some oil. That's lots of street riding too though

  • E4x4Eric

Posted June 13, 2012 - 02:30 PM

#8

Well it sounds like I should be using synthetic oil instead of the straight 20w50 Ya malube.

  • n16ht5

Posted June 13, 2012 - 05:39 PM

#9

I use Valvoline racing synthetic. 8-10hr changes, looks slightly darker than it came in.. still feels silky smooth. Works out to every two or three rides.With my clutch cover it take 1.2Q.. I clean the oil filter every time

  • n16ht5

Posted June 13, 2012 - 05:42 PM

#10

Miles is a terrible way to gauge oil changes.. 500mi of street is about 10% the wear of 500mi of single track . A full 10hr riding day (5-6hr on meter) of ST is 50mi for me. Get an hour gauge

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • GlennR

Posted June 16, 2012 - 08:06 AM

#11

I've using the Rotella 15w40 and it's been staying clean looking for quite a while. I need to keep better records of when to change it, but only have the stock speedo, which doesn't have an odometer or hour meter. I'll be installing a Vapor soon, so that should help. The bike gets such low fuel milage, that keeping up with how many refills between oil changes doesn't work either.

  • n16ht5

Posted June 16, 2012 - 09:01 AM

#12

I've using the Rotella 15w40 and it's been staying clean looking for quite a while. I need to keep better records of when to change it, but only have the stock speedo, which doesn't have an odometer or hour meter. I'll be installing a Vapor soon, so that should help. The bike gets such low fuel milage, that keeping up with how many refills between oil changes doesn't work either.


I would suggest not doing a vapor. I have had two on previous bikes.. they are not as durable or reliable as the stock unit, even though they have cool features.

what kind of gas mileage are you getting on dual sport rides? Last one I went on was 60/30/10 hwy/gravel/dirt and I got 49MPG

get one of these for $11

http://www.ebay.com/...-/150835233157?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231e7b0185&vxp=mtr

or these (what i have, has tachometer too)
http://www.ebay.com/...3f39fa5&vxp=mtr

Edited by n16ht5, June 16, 2012 - 09:02 AM.


  • GlennR

Posted June 16, 2012 - 10:16 AM

#13

I would suggest not doing a vapor. I have had two on previous bikes.. they are not as durable or reliable as the stock unit, even though they have cool features.

what kind of gas mileage are you getting on dual sport rides? Last one I went on was 60/30/10 hwy/gravel/dirt and I got 49MPG

get one of these for $11


I'm only getting around 30 mpg, maybe a little more but not much more. "Something's" wrong, but I don't know what. My ignition stutter is a bit of an issue, but that shouldn't cause that much of a difference compared to yours. I have read more riders with "low" fuel milage, like mine, than riders who are getting "high" fuel milage, like yours. I'd really like to figure out what makes such a huge difference.

Obviously there are numerous little differences that can "add up" to being a big difference. I realize carb jetting & condition are big, then there's tire types and sprocket gearing, ethanol or not, riding speed & agressiveness, terrain, rider weight, etc. Then there's also friction losses, like brake drag & bearing condition.

I'm sure there are other things that can rob milage, any come to mind?

I'm working on a set of sumo wheels, so maybe I'll get better milage on the street. That's why I was thinking about the Vapor, maybe I'd be just as well off with a $10 bike speedo & an hour meter, but I'll need something to tell me my speed. Maybe a GPS would be good.....and I might stop getting lost too! :devil:

  • n16ht5

Posted June 16, 2012 - 05:44 PM

#14

you can get sumo wheels with a speedo pickup. I think that jetting and sprocket gearing are key. I ride pretty hard and still get good mileage.. I run 16/48 which runs 70MPH at 6000RPM. Cruising 55 down the highway where I live is practically putting along just sipping gas.

  • Stealth13

Posted June 16, 2012 - 08:40 PM

#15

I get around 50 mpg driving around the city, bit better on highway and around 30-40 offroad

  • Waltzy

Posted June 19, 2012 - 06:03 PM

#16

I've been getting 45-50 mpg....but mines all street (sumo) with 14/44 gearing. Soon to be 15/44

Edited by Waltzy, June 19, 2012 - 06:04 PM.


  • GlennR

Posted June 19, 2012 - 07:29 PM

#17

I worked on the bike a bit yesterday. I changed the front wheel bearings because I thought they were stiff. As I did the job I realized that they'd been over tightened and they were squeezing the spacer which kept them from turning....Duh! Maybe my milage will improve some. :devil:

Then I decided to change my oil,....... since I'd been reading this thread.

As I was removing the left drain plug I thought I'd stripped it, the head or maybe the threads, I wasn't sure. The plug felt loose, but wouldn't unscew out of the engine. I had one of those "Oh shit!" moments, then I realized that I'd loosened the motor mount bolt instead of the drain plug!! Jeeze!! I was so relieved, and felt so dumb. Believe it or not, I did not have a buzz. Just plain stupid. Since nobody was there to laugh at me I figured I'd share it with you guys.

:ride: :banghead: :banghead:

Edited by GlennR, June 19, 2012 - 07:30 PM.


  • Bandit9

Posted June 19, 2012 - 07:58 PM

#18

I'm laughing with you man. That is something I would do.

Rotella 15/40, for 9 years now on about 6 bikes. No oil related issues. With the WR I do 15 hours. Used to do 10 hrs, but it still looked good, so went to 15 hrs and it looks like it needs it at that interval. I do change it after every race though, but I do about 5 a year these days.

I also get about 47mpg Dual Sporting and 28mpg racing with larger rear sprocket. It's either not jetted well or the float is off. I would check the float first.

Or get a 2012 and be on your way to bliss.

Edited by Bandit9, June 19, 2012 - 08:08 PM.


  • MANIAC998

Posted June 20, 2012 - 04:22 AM

#19

I think your float level is off too. This will drastically reduce your fuel mileage. Along with rotational drag!!! :devil:
Maniac

  • GlennR

Posted June 20, 2012 - 05:01 AM

#20

I think your float level is off too. This will drastically reduce your fuel mileage. Along with rotational drag!!! :devil:
Maniac



I really need to get the carb off and check it out. I haven't pulled the carb yet, so I don't even know what jets are in it. Besides the poor milage and stutter (TPS ignition issue, I think) the engine seems to run great, so I "think" the jetting it good. But I know that I need to check it out to see how the float level is, and the accelerator pump and "other stuff" looks in it. I began to pull the carb once when I first got the bike, but couldn't figure out how to get to it. But later I saw some photos posted showing the rear fender swings up and the carb comes out the rear.

I wish I could afford to have two WR450s so I could have one to ride while I'm working on the other one......, but don't we all. :ride:




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.