Just bought the 06' CRF 450r and love the power and torque this bike offers. Immediately noticed how well the bike handled in rough terrain, rocks, logs, etc... But the ability to lug the bike in first or second gear on different obstacles or hills and I kill it. In one day of technical riding, I killed it over 10 times because of the lack of low end.

What can I do to help fix that issue. The bike is completely stock so this is starting fresh.

I also ride fast paced enduro races.

Fly wheel weights have been thrown in my direction, power reeds, re-jetting. I also seen the FMF mega bomb was supposed to help low end.

What are y'alls thoughts?

you can play with the jetting some, that will help and is cheap.  the pipe will help, but its very pricey for the gains you will get.  power reeds?  i think they mean power now or somthing like that.  that product helps but nothing earth shattering.  fly wheel wieghts will also help, probably the bigest bang for the buck and might be able to pick one off of ebay for cheap.  you should also consider a hi-comp piston and/or a Big Bore kit when it comes time to rebuild.  those two will help with the low end as well.

1. Get the carb to flow properly over rough terrain at low rpms (cavitation issues) by using the R&D powerbowl
2. Needle: make sure you have a NCVS needle in there.
3. Leak jet and accelerator pump: you want a 50 leak, a merge racing apump linkgage spring, and time the pump so it NEVER hits the
   slide
4. Put in a R&D remote fuel screw, so you can fine tune the pilot circuit for crisp off-idle throttle response on every ride
5. Now you can add a heavy flywheel weight, and you will notice a huge improvement
6. Put on a G2 'thottle tamer' throttle tube, to give your more throttle control

About 300 bucks and your are as good as it will get.

Powernow wings don't help

Pre-2007 FCR carbs have the apump spring issue (as mentioned), as well as crappy apump diaphrams and springs. Get a Powerbowl II, and Merge racing apump linkage spring and it will be better than FI.

Awesome thanks. Seems everyone I talk to has the same issues.

+1 on the FWW.  I have a 2006 as well and the FWW (trail tech 8 oz I believe) helped with the stalling.  Give them a call and they will help determine the best on based on what you are looking for.  They say it can also help it add power and increase traction but I don't feel any of that.  To me peformance is identical and the stall prevention is way better.  Now I don't ride trails much but stalling in corners went from being a pretty big problem to almost non-existent.

Like the others have said, I am sure there is some fine tuning or aftermarket components for the carb but I personally have not had to resort to any of that once I put on the FWW.

The other option is to go with a rekluse auto clutch which are now much more reasonably priced.

Flywheels weight.  Heaviest..... Seriously the HEAVIEST you cab find.  This is a motocross bike you are using it offroad. The stock flywheels is a little heavier than a nickle.  It will still spin the tire, lift the front and be Verry nauhty in every gear with a +13 oz fw.  But it will tractor better and be more controlled.

The carb mods will help...  Idk about the necessity of the rnd bowl.

If you like the low end hit but just want it to not stall so easily,
a 8 or 9 oz flywheel and turning up the idle will do it.
If you really want to slow it down then the 13 oz or more will be the ticket

seehogs, on 08 June 2012 - 10:17 AM, said:

Won't slow if down.
Probably speed it up due to increaced traction...
Unless Maby your running a supermoto up piles peak.

i went with a 50 tooth rear sprocket and love it... i think stock is 48... I've also tried a 49 and liked it, but the 50 is better for the tight trails and is still plenty fast in the higher gears

Is your fuel screw set correctly?

ive got same bike 9oz flywheel ride faster youll have no problems