Hey guys I just got a 99 kx125 a couple of weeks ago. I am having this problem though. On the cold start SOMETIMES I will kick it and there will be nothing there like no compression. After the cold start it never really does that and starts first kick every time and seems to have good compression. Could it be because I am low on trans fluid? It doesn't seem like the normal top end rebuild is the problem here.

What transmission fluid are you using?

How old is it?

Is it not at the correct level?

KDXGarage, on 04 June 2012 - 06:41 PM, said:

I am changing the fluid this afternoon. I am going to  be putting in Bel Ray Gear Saver 75W.
How much should I put in ?

Also on E2S Im getting people saying my kicker gear could be worn or my compression is low. So can I see the kicker gear from just pulling the cover?

Also the guy I bought it from put a new clutch kit in it right before I bought it. It was working pretty good for a while then I had to change the handle/perch and just readjusted the golden piece. I got it where it does not want to take off or I have to really rev it to keep it running, but now it drags when pulled in and the lever is hard to pull in. So what do you guys think my problem is there?

OK, 125's are easy to kick over even with a new topend. We have 15 min on our current topend right now and I could start it using a glove on my hand. It even has an aftermarket head and dome for higher compression. Oh and compression test shows 200psi. So I know it's good.

As for trans oil, that's a HUGE debate. Most will use ATF type F (me) but some will use 10/40, 15/40, 20/50 or gearsaver like you're using. It's whatever floats their boat.

To inspect you kickstart gear assembly, you have to pull the entire rightside outer case. Kicker, waterpump, brake lever, KIPS rod, etc has to come off.

As for lever adjustment, You should have about 2-3mm of play from the lever to the perch. Or adjust how you like for racing purposes. The later the release, the better chance you have of the plates swelling and causing slippage because the lever will lose slack. Cheap plates will swell within minutes of riding. They also get dirty quickly. Typical oil changes are 8-10 hours of ride time. No more unless you ride real easy. That's another reason Type F is great. Do a search on here for more info on using Type F.

Ok I wll search Type F.

This sucks that I may have to remove the whole outer case. If I haveto it will be when I do the top end rebuild anyways.

I will let you guys know if the fresh trans fluid clears up the problem.

Ok so I drained the oil. I also took the clutch cover off.
The oil is a dark gray and has a nasty smell to it.
Where should I go from here? Inspect the kicker gear now? Look at the clutch and all those good things? Or Just put the cover back on and put the new oil to see if that solved the problem?

The oil is dark gray and smells nasty because it has material from the clutch plates in it. Completely normal.

Bolon Yokte K uh, on 06 June 2012 - 03:23 PM, said:

Ok thats what I figured. So I think Im just gonna put the cover back on and put oil in. Doesn't it hold 750 ML ?

What bark busters should I get ? I do not want to spend more than $100. I ride trails/hills and i may even do mx so I need ones that will be good for everything.