As a little background to put this into perspective: when I got into motorcycles, like any other kid I leaned toward the sportbikes, for obvious reasons. Since then I got a scooter, learned how to maintain bikes and ride on the street (and highways...). Upgraded to my first real bike a few years later and learned how to rebuild and troubleshoot motorcycles, along with learning how to ride 70mph on the road, how to get a ticket, and look like a badass riding from work at 10pm on frozen solid streets while snowing at -12*F and carrying 4 boxes of pizza on the back 5 miles home. A year later I purchased my first "big bore" bike being a CR250, learned how to ride a very fast and menacing machine, how to jump, etc.
Throughout all of this, my love for sportbikes never faded. And I have to give it to my local dealer which I hate so very very much because they had brought in a few decent sportbikes a few times which I had sat on, started, revved, and annoyed the crap outa the workers with.
Anyway, after a bit of an unemployment hiatus I intend on rebuilding my dirt bike, and purchasing in a real motorcycle; a sportbike. That's also because my best friend recently got into motorcycles and I feel very left out.
I've looked at local prices on bikes, insurance, gas costs, etc. But I want to hear from people that own one or two. What needs to be considered when buying a sportbike? I believe the nicest thing I can afford is a 2003 R6, which isn't that bad. Is there anything that should be done when I bring a bike home with ~20K miles? Is there a reason I shouldn't ride it at specific times? I've heard they're cop magnets, true? Can they pull you over if you're going under the speed limit?
As for the budget part, how's gas in the real world on a 600 SS? Is it very different from a 1000 SS? What if I tip it over at a standstill? Do I have to call the insurance company? Will my rate jump $300 because something happened? And what about maintenance? I feel totally comfortable with adjusting timing, changing tires, electrical, bearings, etc. Is there anything that really should be done at a shop? I've also heard supersports need to be taken care of like F1 cars i.e. parked in a clean place with a stand, only use the highest grade octane available, all maintenance done early, extensive pre-ride inspections, and all kinds of stuff. Coming from a dirt bike background that sounds slightly OCD, but if that's what needs to be done, so be it. And last but not least, are these reliable? I need it to reliably get me to and from school (140 mile round trip) almost everyday, even in the snow, rain and freezing temperatures, and last for years. I know I can do it, can the bike?
If it would make matters better, I can get a "sportier sport tourer" like the F4i, R6S, maybe a VFR, etc. Probably more comfortable, easier to ride, etc. Also, I heard something about "collector's" insurance? If that's a real thing I may consider getting the SS, and something more utility oriented. So that would be 3 bikes, is that considered a collection?
Anyway, love to hear from you guys. Been waiting for a sportbike for nearly 10 years and have extensively learned as much as I can about them; asking on forums, friends, watching hundreds upon hundreds of videos, reading all kinds of articles, subscribing to all kinds of mags, etc. And I want this to be my last stop, closing the research book, and actually getting one and riding it.
First sportbike on a budget
Started by
twistedkeys
, Jun 01 2012 01:19 AM
36 replies to this topic
Posted 01 June 2012 - 03:36 AM
Fuel economy on a motorcycle is mostly determined by the rider.
I can get between 40 and 80 mpg on my Ninja 250,
24 and 46 mpg on my Honda Blackbird,
28 and 42 mpg on my SV650,
just depending how I ride each bike.
I've been riding motorcycles over 12 years, never once had a claim with my insurance company, other party always pays.
Life's too short to have only one motorcycle, that's been my experience and I'm sticking with it.
I can get between 40 and 80 mpg on my Ninja 250,
24 and 46 mpg on my Honda Blackbird,
28 and 42 mpg on my SV650,
just depending how I ride each bike.
I've been riding motorcycles over 12 years, never once had a claim with my insurance company, other party always pays.
Life's too short to have only one motorcycle, that's been my experience and I'm sticking with it.
Edited by cat0020, 01 June 2012 - 03:38 AM.
Posted 01 June 2012 - 11:33 AM
cat0020, on 01 June 2012 - 03:36 AM, said:
Fuel economy on a motorcycle is mostly determined by the rider.
I can get between 40 and 80 mpg on my Ninja 250,
24 and 46 mpg on my Honda Blackbird,
28 and 42 mpg on my SV650,
just depending how I ride each bike.
I've been riding motorcycles over 12 years, never once had a claim with my insurance company, other party always pays.
Life's too short to have only one motorcycle, that's been my experience and I'm sticking with it.
I can get between 40 and 80 mpg on my Ninja 250,
24 and 46 mpg on my Honda Blackbird,
28 and 42 mpg on my SV650,
just depending how I ride each bike.
I've been riding motorcycles over 12 years, never once had a claim with my insurance company, other party always pays.
Life's too short to have only one motorcycle, that's been my experience and I'm sticking with it.
Thanks for the tips
Posted 03 June 2012 - 12:39 PM
Cost;
I ride a gsxr1000 among others and get about 45 mpg. That number can drop like a rock depending on how you use it. It does require premium fuel. I ride year around in Idaho but not on my sportbike, a simple parking lot misshap on ice can cost $1000 to put right. as for commuting I don't have one but running the numbers, there is more to saving money then mpg. The bike may cost more. A cheap $800 dodge neon may save you some money on your 140 mile commute when you figure in 3000 miles for a $200 rear tire 6000 miles for a $150 front. You said you do your own maitnance so that saves alot of money but I got quoted $500 for valve checks which is every 12000 miles, $150 for oil change (I do these my self as I have had bad expirences with dealers not doing it right) on a cheap car, tires last 50000 miles and you can get 4 for less then the bikes 2. a well taken care of sport bike can last 100,000 miles with only minor repairs (cheap 600 super sports are rarely well cared for as they are often "rich kid cast offs"), 200,000 for a car I am not trying to steer you away from a bike just wanting you to be informed when you choose.
Insurance;
I was getting quotes of $1800 up for full coverage which was outrageous to me for a bike I paid $4500 for. I went liability only for about $75 per year (had the bike for 6 years now haven't wreaked it, so I am alot of money ahead) but if you are making monthly payments on the bike you should have full coverage. Your view may be diffrent I am just sharing my expirence and view here.
Maintance;
Compared to dirtbikes a sport bike is great. 3000 miles for oil, 12000 for valve checks chain lube/check about 400. that is for mild street use if it is ran hard (jail time potential? hospital, funeral costs? find a track) thoose mainance cost get much higher.
summary;
It may be better to get a cheaper more mild (ninja 500? sv650?) and a cheap car/2wd compact truck (30mpg car/ 26 truck?) but with the truck you can haul toys to the track
I ride a gsxr1000 among others and get about 45 mpg. That number can drop like a rock depending on how you use it. It does require premium fuel. I ride year around in Idaho but not on my sportbike, a simple parking lot misshap on ice can cost $1000 to put right. as for commuting I don't have one but running the numbers, there is more to saving money then mpg. The bike may cost more. A cheap $800 dodge neon may save you some money on your 140 mile commute when you figure in 3000 miles for a $200 rear tire 6000 miles for a $150 front. You said you do your own maitnance so that saves alot of money but I got quoted $500 for valve checks which is every 12000 miles, $150 for oil change (I do these my self as I have had bad expirences with dealers not doing it right) on a cheap car, tires last 50000 miles and you can get 4 for less then the bikes 2. a well taken care of sport bike can last 100,000 miles with only minor repairs (cheap 600 super sports are rarely well cared for as they are often "rich kid cast offs"), 200,000 for a car I am not trying to steer you away from a bike just wanting you to be informed when you choose.
Insurance;
I was getting quotes of $1800 up for full coverage which was outrageous to me for a bike I paid $4500 for. I went liability only for about $75 per year (had the bike for 6 years now haven't wreaked it, so I am alot of money ahead) but if you are making monthly payments on the bike you should have full coverage. Your view may be diffrent I am just sharing my expirence and view here.
Maintance;
Compared to dirtbikes a sport bike is great. 3000 miles for oil, 12000 for valve checks chain lube/check about 400. that is for mild street use if it is ran hard (jail time potential? hospital, funeral costs? find a track) thoose mainance cost get much higher.
summary;
It may be better to get a cheaper more mild (ninja 500? sv650?) and a cheap car/2wd compact truck (30mpg car/ 26 truck?) but with the truck you can haul toys to the track
Posted 03 June 2012 - 08:50 PM
uspsamaster, on 03 June 2012 - 12:39 PM, said:
Cost;
I ride a gsxr1000 among others and get about 45 mpg. That number can drop like a rock depending on how you use it. It does require premium fuel. I ride year around in Idaho but not on my sportbike, a simple parking lot misshap on ice can cost $1000 to put right. as for commuting I don't have one but running the numbers, there is more to saving money then mpg. The bike may cost more. A cheap $800 dodge neon may save you some money on your 140 mile commute when you figure in 3000 miles for a $200 rear tire 6000 miles for a $150 front. You said you do your own maitnance so that saves alot of money but I got quoted $500 for valve checks which is every 12000 miles, $150 for oil change (I do these my self as I have had bad expirences with dealers not doing it right) on a cheap car, tires last 50000 miles and you can get 4 for less then the bikes 2. a well taken care of sport bike can last 100,000 miles with only minor repairs (cheap 600 super sports are rarely well cared for as they are often "rich kid cast offs"), 200,000 for a car I am not trying to steer you away from a bike just wanting you to be informed when you choose.
Insurance;
I was getting quotes of $1800 up for full coverage which was outrageous to me for a bike I paid $4500 for. I went liability only for about $75 per year (had the bike for 6 years now haven't wreaked it, so I am alot of money ahead) but if you are making monthly payments on the bike you should have full coverage. Your view may be diffrent I am just sharing my expirence and view here.
Maintance;
Compared to dirtbikes a sport bike is great. 3000 miles for oil, 12000 for valve checks chain lube/check about 400. that is for mild street use if it is ran hard (jail time potential? hospital, funeral costs? find a track) thoose mainance cost get much higher.
summary;
It may be better to get a cheaper more mild (ninja 500? sv650?) and a cheap car/2wd compact truck (30mpg car/ 26 truck?) but with the truck you can haul toys to the track
I ride a gsxr1000 among others and get about 45 mpg. That number can drop like a rock depending on how you use it. It does require premium fuel. I ride year around in Idaho but not on my sportbike, a simple parking lot misshap on ice can cost $1000 to put right. as for commuting I don't have one but running the numbers, there is more to saving money then mpg. The bike may cost more. A cheap $800 dodge neon may save you some money on your 140 mile commute when you figure in 3000 miles for a $200 rear tire 6000 miles for a $150 front. You said you do your own maitnance so that saves alot of money but I got quoted $500 for valve checks which is every 12000 miles, $150 for oil change (I do these my self as I have had bad expirences with dealers not doing it right) on a cheap car, tires last 50000 miles and you can get 4 for less then the bikes 2. a well taken care of sport bike can last 100,000 miles with only minor repairs (cheap 600 super sports are rarely well cared for as they are often "rich kid cast offs"), 200,000 for a car I am not trying to steer you away from a bike just wanting you to be informed when you choose.
Insurance;
I was getting quotes of $1800 up for full coverage which was outrageous to me for a bike I paid $4500 for. I went liability only for about $75 per year (had the bike for 6 years now haven't wreaked it, so I am alot of money ahead) but if you are making monthly payments on the bike you should have full coverage. Your view may be diffrent I am just sharing my expirence and view here.
Maintance;
Compared to dirtbikes a sport bike is great. 3000 miles for oil, 12000 for valve checks chain lube/check about 400. that is for mild street use if it is ran hard (jail time potential? hospital, funeral costs? find a track) thoose mainance cost get much higher.
summary;
It may be better to get a cheaper more mild (ninja 500? sv650?) and a cheap car/2wd compact truck (30mpg car/ 26 truck?) but with the truck you can haul toys to the track
Won't be much need for a toy hauler if I can barely afford cheap transport
I was quoted $206/year for an R6, I guess that's not too bad? But I don't know about a car, I'd have to get a girlfriend or tons of crap to haul to convince mmyself I needed one. I have been thinking about it, and I guess I don't need a supersport right now, I think a basic sport bike would be fine. Thanks for the reply btw!
Posted 04 June 2012 - 07:40 AM
Pure sport tires only last a few thousand miles. I had some sticky ones on my 250 supermoto and ate them up in about 2500 miles. BUT you can get higher mileage sport touring tires that you can count on to last ~30k miles and still grip pretty well because they put a hard compound in the middle and a soft one on the edges. About 300 dollars a set. You do give up some performance but most of it wont be missed on the street. Heck I have on some cheap bias ply dual sport tires now that cost 100 shipped for a set and I can drag pegs before I run out of grip. The only place I noticed the difference was in panic stopping.
On maintenance, check! it varies model to model. A lot have about 300 / 12000 like usps said, but some have longer. EX: Yamaha says 4k oil changes and 26k valve checks on the R1, R6, my bike, and probably others.
Also. like the guys above said, don't count on ever seeing the advertised mileage (maybe on the highway depending on the bike). I saw mine once, during engine break in. To get there you have to shift like a grandpa in to every gear at almost lugging rpms while accelerating at the pace of school bus. Torquey bikes get better real world mileage because they are tuned to be more efficient at lower rpms and to get mileage you have to drive at... lower rpms.
On maintenance, check! it varies model to model. A lot have about 300 / 12000 like usps said, but some have longer. EX: Yamaha says 4k oil changes and 26k valve checks on the R1, R6, my bike, and probably others.
Also. like the guys above said, don't count on ever seeing the advertised mileage (maybe on the highway depending on the bike). I saw mine once, during engine break in. To get there you have to shift like a grandpa in to every gear at almost lugging rpms while accelerating at the pace of school bus. Torquey bikes get better real world mileage because they are tuned to be more efficient at lower rpms and to get mileage you have to drive at... lower rpms.
Edited by Oic0, 04 June 2012 - 07:43 AM.
Posted 04 June 2012 - 07:55 AM
twistedkeys, on 03 June 2012 - 08:50 PM, said:
But I don't know about a car, I'd have to get a girlfriend or tons of crap to haul to convince mmyself I needed one. I have been thinking about it,
You live in Utah, have a 140 mile daily commute, and dont have a car ? --- your priorities are completely out of whack.
For the price of a 9 year old high mileage 600 sport bike, you should be able to find a small car or pickup. Keep working hard, be responsible, and eventually your cash reserves will be back up to where you can buy a toy if you want one again.
Posted 06 June 2012 - 10:27 AM
DMC707, on 04 June 2012 - 07:55 AM, said:
You live in Utah, have a 140 mile daily commute, and dont have a car ? --- your priorities are completely out of whack.
For the price of a 9 year old high mileage 600 sport bike, you should be able to find a small car or pickup. Keep working hard, be responsible, and eventually your cash reserves will be back up to where you can buy a toy if you want one again.
For the price of a 9 year old high mileage 600 sport bike, you should be able to find a small car or pickup. Keep working hard, be responsible, and eventually your cash reserves will be back up to where you can buy a toy if you want one again.
I missed that part lol. Since a tree fell on my truck I am car less. Having a bike alone sucks. You can't carry things from point A to point B unless they will fit in a back pack. Sounds minor but its huge. My bow, guns, dirt bikes, and fourwheelers are decorative only right now. Shopping is out of the questions. You cant even pick up fast food and carry it home unless you pick stuff without a drink and with no juices to leak on you. Also, if it rains you're screwed. A bike in the rain is NOT fun. It extends beyond being completely waterlogged. The road gets slippery giving you the stopping distance of a train and your helmet fogs incessantly.
Edited by Oic0, 06 June 2012 - 10:29 AM.
Posted 06 June 2012 - 03:28 PM
Oic0, on 04 June 2012 - 07:40 AM, said:
Pure sport tires only last a few thousand miles. I had some sticky ones on my 250 supermoto and ate them up in about 2500 miles. BUT you can get higher mileage sport touring tires that you can count on to last ~30k miles and still grip pretty well because they put a hard compound in the middle and a soft one on the edges. About 300 dollars a set. You do give up some performance but most of it wont be missed on the street. Heck I have on some cheap bias ply dual sport tires now that cost 100 shipped for a set and I can drag pegs before I run out of grip. The only place I noticed the difference was in panic stopping.
On maintenance, check! it varies model to model. A lot have about 300 / 12000 like usps said, but some have longer. EX: Yamaha says 4k oil changes and 26k valve checks on the R1, R6, my bike, and probably others.
Also. like the guys above said, don't count on ever seeing the advertised mileage (maybe on the highway depending on the bike). I saw mine once, during engine break in. To get there you have to shift like a grandpa in to every gear at almost lugging rpms while accelerating at the pace of school bus. Torquey bikes get better real world mileage because they are tuned to be more efficient at lower rpms and to get mileage you have to drive at... lower rpms.
On maintenance, check! it varies model to model. A lot have about 300 / 12000 like usps said, but some have longer. EX: Yamaha says 4k oil changes and 26k valve checks on the R1, R6, my bike, and probably others.
Also. like the guys above said, don't count on ever seeing the advertised mileage (maybe on the highway depending on the bike). I saw mine once, during engine break in. To get there you have to shift like a grandpa in to every gear at almost lugging rpms while accelerating at the pace of school bus. Torquey bikes get better real world mileage because they are tuned to be more efficient at lower rpms and to get mileage you have to drive at... lower rpms.
Thanks for the info. Spent a lot of time with minimal gas money for my old KE and learned how to shift like a grandpa and accelerate like a bus nearly perfect lol...
Posted 06 June 2012 - 03:33 PM
DMC707, on 04 June 2012 - 07:55 AM, said:
You live in Utah, have a 140 mile daily commute, and dont have a car ? --- your priorities are completely out of whack.
For the price of a 9 year old high mileage 600 sport bike, you should be able to find a small car or pickup. Keep working hard, be responsible, and eventually your cash reserves will be back up to where you can buy a toy if you want one again.
For the price of a 9 year old high mileage 600 sport bike, you should be able to find a small car or pickup. Keep working hard, be responsible, and eventually your cash reserves will be back up to where you can buy a toy if you want one again.
I know a lot of people consider a sport bike a toy but it's not for me... It probably makes less sense than a KLR, but it can work. I don't need to bring a 3000lb behemoth just to carry more than 1 gallon of milk sometimes...
Posted 06 June 2012 - 03:36 PM
Oic0, on 06 June 2012 - 10:27 AM, said:
I missed that part lol. Since a tree fell on my truck I am car less. Having a bike alone sucks. You can't carry things from point A to point B unless they will fit in a back pack. Sounds minor but its huge. My bow, guns, dirt bikes, and fourwheelers are decorative only right now. Shopping is out of the questions. You cant even pick up fast food and carry it home unless you pick stuff without a drink and with no juices to leak on you. Also, if it rains you're screwed. A bike in the rain is NOT fun. It extends beyond being completely waterlogged. The road gets slippery giving you the stopping distance of a train and your helmet fogs incessantly.
I know ideally having a car would be the way to go, but I won't be able to afford it, I don't want a car right now. I know it's more inconvenient on a bike but I can't explain how little the rain snow or having to hold 13 bags of groceries and 2 gallons of milk (on a 50cc scooter) bothers me. Maybe it's not fun, but it's not a problem. Also, for safety reasons I'm much much better and comfortable riding a bike than any car.
Posted 07 June 2012 - 07:07 AM
twistedkeys, on 06 June 2012 - 03:36 PM, said:
For safety reasons I'm much much better and comfortable riding a bike than any car.
You may feel more comfortable but when you inevitably have a wreck in a car you usually get out and go "well damn". When you inevitably have a wreck on a bike...
(This isn't me)
http://youtu.be/atCrbQv5P3k?t=7m26s
Posted 07 June 2012 - 02:38 PM
600 SS's and Snow absolutely do not mix. It's one thing on your scooter, but a completely different animal on a bike as powerful as a supersport. Rain sucks enough as it is, but snow? No way. Im surprised nobody else has mentioned that.
Posted 07 June 2012 - 02:53 PM
KEG505, on 07 June 2012 - 02:38 PM, said:
600 SS's and Snow absolutely do not mix. It's one thing on your scooter, but a completely different animal on a bike as powerful as a supersport. Rain sucks enough as it is, but snow? No way. Im surprised nobody else has mentioned that.
Yeah I know, but it the road's clear then you're only dealing with freezing temperatures and wet roads right? Traffic isn't really an issue here.
Posted 07 June 2012 - 02:55 PM
Oic0, on 07 June 2012 - 07:07 AM, said:
You may feel more comfortable but when you inevitably have a wreck in a car you usually get out and go "well damn". When you inevitably have a wreck on a bike...
(This isn't me)
http://youtu.be/atCrbQv5P3k?t=7m26s
(This isn't me)
http://youtu.be/atCrbQv5P3k?t=7m26s
I understand that, but if I can't afford a car because of rent or other things then what's the point? People in Britain and Asia almost all start out with a small bike because it makes sooo much more sense. Our country's just so car oriented.
Posted 08 June 2012 - 07:30 AM
KEG505, on 07 June 2012 - 05:21 PM, said:
freezing temperatures and wet roads=ice
If you are hell bent on a bike, get yourself an SV650 or and FZR600 and throw some soft bags and sport touring tires on it.
Posted 08 June 2012 - 11:13 AM
DRZ 400SM would be a great option. SM's rail corners a 400 single is cheap and easy to maintain, good(ish) fuel mileage, if you get a set of dirt wheels to swap in the winter, you can "stud" the tires with screws (think ice racing). You would not be disappointed. Then when you get all your eggs in a basket, buy a bigger faster bike for those great springs and summers that you get over there!
I'm personally fond of the KLR 650, but it wouldn't be as much fun. If you really need to save $$ get an XR (or XL) 600.
As for Fuel Mileage on a bike, my ZG1000 (think Ninja with bags);
Around town/Commuting, rain, traffic, stop lights..... 35mpg and on a 600# motorcycle, this stuff just isn't "enjoyable".
A quick run down the freeway, back roads, mostly fast stuff (65-90mph) with no stops..... 45-49mpg, <~~~this is the "fun stuff" btw.
I'm personally fond of the KLR 650, but it wouldn't be as much fun. If you really need to save $$ get an XR (or XL) 600.
As for Fuel Mileage on a bike, my ZG1000 (think Ninja with bags);
Around town/Commuting, rain, traffic, stop lights..... 35mpg and on a 600# motorcycle, this stuff just isn't "enjoyable".
A quick run down the freeway, back roads, mostly fast stuff (65-90mph) with no stops..... 45-49mpg, <~~~this is the "fun stuff" btw.
Edited by 6 Riders, 08 June 2012 - 11:18 AM.
Posted 08 June 2012 - 02:09 PM
6 Riders, on 08 June 2012 - 11:13 AM, said:
DRZ 400SM would be a great option. SM's rail corners a 400 single is cheap and easy to maintain, good(ish) fuel mileage, if you get a set of dirt wheels to swap in the winter, you can "stud" the tires with screws (think ice racing). You would not be disappointed. Then when you get all your eggs in a basket, buy a bigger faster bike for those great springs and summers that you get over there!
I'm personally fond of the KLR 650, but it wouldn't be as much fun. If you really need to save $$ get an XR (or XL) 600.
As for Fuel Mileage on a bike, my ZG1000 (think Ninja with bags);
Around town/Commuting, rain, traffic, stop lights..... 35mpg and on a 600# motorcycle, this stuff just isn't "enjoyable".
A quick run down the freeway, back roads, mostly fast stuff (65-90mph) with no stops..... 45-49mpg, <~~~this is the "fun stuff" btw.
I'm personally fond of the KLR 650, but it wouldn't be as much fun. If you really need to save $$ get an XR (or XL) 600.
As for Fuel Mileage on a bike, my ZG1000 (think Ninja with bags);
Around town/Commuting, rain, traffic, stop lights..... 35mpg and on a 600# motorcycle, this stuff just isn't "enjoyable".
A quick run down the freeway, back roads, mostly fast stuff (65-90mph) with no stops..... 45-49mpg, <~~~this is the "fun stuff" btw.
DRZ400 is a good bike, but it's too juvenile for my needs. The main problem with it is that it's not that fast, and won't cruise at 85-95mph for 3 hours at a time. Again, if there was one word to describe that bike it's juvenile. Great for what it does, but will never grow up. Even the 650 isn't that serious.
If I were to get a dual sport it would have to be an XR650/600 without a doubt, for a lot of reasons. That said, both of these bikes can't be purchased in decent condition for less than ~$3500, and that's wayyy more than I could get an older sport bike for.
