you need to run the engine under load in order to get an accurate reading.

you are luck you were able to get that jet out of your carb, that could have turned into an expensive mistake.

Going down the one jet size isnt going to make a massive difference, but it might help a little with the plug fouling. go ride it and see how it does.

Also, have you checked to make sure you dont have a leaking crank seal?

o and my floats are still sticking.

okay how would i know if i have a leaking crank seal and i have oil on my left cases again... the worst is at the bottom.. and i trail rode it around at my house today and didnt foul but the plug was very black... i just went out again and it fouled right when i came to stop to wash off bike thank god not in woods ill try and get some pics of oil tonight

Edited by yz125r, 10 June 2012 - 10:02 AM.

If it were me I would just to replace the crank seal.They cost around $10.00. Then you know it is good. Also stock jetting is usually good for sea level.If you are below 1500 feet than stock jetting will work okay. If you are higher than that you may need to make changes. If the crank seal is leaking oil into the crankcase no amount of jetting changes will solve the problem.

You say the float is still sticking, that needs to be addressed before worrying about any sort of a jetting issue. A sticking/flooding float/inlet completely changes jetting.

seriously, tear your carb apart, put a rebuild kit in it. it will save you many many fouled plugs.

alright what all does a rebuild kit come with?  and which crank seal? both or just the left side?

Edited by yz125r, 12 June 2012 - 06:22 AM.

check the stator cover gasket and etc before you go crank seals, because thats a serious ordeal...

you don't have an intake leak. that would cause it to run lean not rich.

i went to the tracfk only for 45 mintues didnt fould any plugs and the sator cover gasket i think that wat it is it knida black towards top and green all around it