Clutch dragging. Is my "push lever shaft" bent?


8 replies to this topic
  • cereal killer

Posted May 27, 2012 - 03:19 PM

#1

The bike is an '08. I put a rekluse in it that wasn't installed correctly and burnt my clutch (my fault). I took the rekluse out and installed a brand new clutch kit with new fibers, steel plates and heavy duty springs (EBC). I wouldn't have used the springs, but my stock ones were out of spec.

Now my bike drags when it's in gear. I realize that some dragging is normal when the fibers are new, but how much is too much?? It seems like the push lever arm is too far forward before it meets resistance from the clutch springs.

The first picture is how far forward I can push the lever without any pressure:
Posted Image

This is how far forward it is when I adjust the free-play out of the cable:
Posted Image

And this is with the clutch lever pulled in:
Posted Image

As you can see in the last one, it maxes out. It starts to pull the knob on the end of the cable, into the cable housing. That doesn't seem right. Also, I had to use a spacer to get the cable tight enough to remove the freeplay. I thought the cable had stretched, but now I'm thinking otherwise given the other symptoms...

I've taken the clutch apart many times now to check it. I've removed and inspected the "push rod 2" and "push lever shaft" (these are the names in the manual). No signs of wear or bending as far as I can tell, but maybe it's just not visible?


EDIT: Push rod 2 is #11, and Push lever shaft is #19. If either of these were bent resulting in too much play, could I run an appropriately sized washer on top of #8 as a temporary fix? I've taken both out to look at them and neither look worn, but I can't figure out what else would be the problem.

The bike is rideable as-is, but I can't get into neutral while it's running. The clutch drags bad enough that the bike will drive forward when I give it gas in-gear with the clutch pulled in. However, it does not stall if I come to a stop with the clutch in.

Posted Image

Edited by cereal killer, May 27, 2012 - 04:01 PM.


  • cereal killer

Posted May 27, 2012 - 05:10 PM

#2

Just measured the friction plates, 24.3mm altogether, so 3.0375mm each. Spec is 2.92–3.08 mm. However, while I had it apart I noticed that there's a gap before #6 contacts the pressure plate... makes me think I might be on the right track with adding a spacer.

Here's some more pics of the parts: (took it apart for the ~12 time...sigh)

Posted Image
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I rolled this piece across the table to check to see if it was bent. Looked fine. Didn't notice any wobble.
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The primary driven gear has a bit of wear, but nothing that seems drastic enough to be the source of the problem.
Posted Image

The clutch boss moves freely:
Posted Image

Edited by cereal killer, May 27, 2012 - 05:12 PM.


  • grayracer513

Posted May 27, 2012 - 06:25 PM

#3

I would bet that the problem is the clutch plates. Lower cost plate sets commonly do drag an unacceptable amount when they're newly installed. You should give it an hour or so to start acting normal. The lever is that close to the limit of travel because the stack's thicker than it should be.

  • cereal killer

Posted May 27, 2012 - 07:14 PM

#4

Thanks grayracer. I would've just used OEM stuff, but I had a friend who sold me the kit cheap....

I ended up sticking a washer on top of the push rod. Clutch works perfectly now! Just like normal. Do you think I can get away with running it that way? Any concerns with adding a spacer? I can't see anything wrong with the rest of the clutch parts, so I don't think there's anything for me to replace.

There is still a small amount of play before the push rod contacts the pressure plate, but it's less than a 1/5th of what it was before.

Posted Image
Posted Image

Edited by cereal killer, May 27, 2012 - 07:16 PM.


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  • RUSVD

Posted May 28, 2012 - 07:25 AM

#5

Hi cereal killer.
I don't think anything is bent. It's just not long enough, the push rod has a gap somewhere.
I betting the problem area is in group #6. Any chance when you were going back and forth from the oem to the rekluse, that the trow out, bearing and washers got mixed up? What about # 10 in the picture, is that a single bearing? Looks like it goes between the push rod and the throw out. Look to see if you have that in there. I had a similar problem on my KTM . It required a washer on each side of the bearing plate when it was on the throw out. I hate to say but, do you have the bearing plate and washer on the correct side of the thow out. Im not saying that I put them on the wrong side before, oooops. But I did.
I'm new to yamahas, so I'm learning. I've been a KTM guy and still have one.

  • cereal killer

Posted May 29, 2012 - 07:00 AM

#6

Hi RUSVD. It was the exp 2.0, so there weren't any of those parts to get mixed up with. There is only one #10 bearing in my clutch, so hopefully that's all there's supposed to be. I've assembled it in the same order and orientation as in the picture, so I'm pretty sure it's right. Thanks for the ideas though. I appreciate the help!

After I stuck in the washer, the bike is driving like normal. I've noticed that there's a lot more variation in lever freeplay when the bike is hot compared to cold now, but I blame that on the EBC clutch plates. Now that I've driven it for a couple hours, I will probably take it apart again now and make sure everything still looks good. I've got some time on my hands now as I broke my toe and sprained my foot riding it yesterday...

It certainly feels fixed, and maybe I'll be able to take out the washer after the plates wear a bit?

Edited by cereal killer, May 29, 2012 - 07:04 AM.


  • RUSVD

Posted May 29, 2012 - 07:30 AM

#7

The only other thing i can think of, is do you have the correct number of fiber disk's and steel disk's in it.

  • grayracer513

Posted May 29, 2012 - 09:27 AM

#8

I've noticed that there's a lot more variation in lever freeplay when the bike is hot compared to cold now,...


That's the other classic symptom of low cost plate sets. Because they expand more than they should, free play increases with heat to an unusually great degree. That part is annoying, but that's all. The problem comes when the clutch cools down a little and you all of a sudden have no free play. Watch for that, or you have an excuse to replace the clutch sooner than you think.

  • cereal killer

Posted June 18, 2012 - 08:04 AM

#9

Just updating this post in case someone uses it for reference later. The clutch seems to have settled in a bit better now and doesn't need as much adjustment between hot and cold anymore. Still some, but much less than when I first put it in.

I've now put the EXP 2.0 back in with new side plates. I tried it without the extra washer, but the cable adjustment was getting maxed out still. When I put the washer back in, I didn't have any freeplay. That made me worry that the clutch wouldn't lock up tight, so I tried a skinnier washer. I used a copper one that's roughly half as thick and it seems to work fine.

So bottom line, sounds like you're right grayracer and the clutch pack is too thick. The amount I needed to compensate for with the washer diminished when I put in the EXP. It seems like the EXP is the right width for the plates it replaces and so the overall thickness was reduced slightly and so I needed a smaller washer.

I'm going to keep an eye on it and see if I can take the washer out as the clutch plates wear.





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