16 replies to this topic

[Low-Rider TT Newbie]

I recently bought 1993 TE610. Frame and fork are original, engine is from -99-00, plastics i don't really know (something 07-08?). Motard wheels installed, cylinder head ported. Could be professional work, extra material has been welded to critical spots, or someone tried and failed, then repaired best he could...

This week I've planned replacing forks oil seals and some other basic maintenance on the bike. Going to take a look at the wirings too, lights wont work and its quite hard to start. When the next oil change comes i'll take a look at the piston and rod, see if they need replacement which I strongly think they will Also going to install brembo caliber, the one used in newer models. Perhaps a 320mm wave disc!

I have been thinking of upgrading the bike in various ways, off-road wheels for example (if you have cheap pair that will fit don't be afraid to contact ), stiffer springs front and rear??

I don't yet know if the power's enough? I'll take a further look at high comp pistons, high power coil and such after I have tuned the carb properly


Also; a lousy pic I took with phone:
I couldn't find any thumbnail??

[Low-Rider TT Newbie]

I managed to break the bike already
Before I began to strip the bike I had to ride it a little, had hard time starting it. Drove few kilometers and back to garage. First of I started stripping the plastics off to see how they were fitted and they weren't... So I'm going to have to do something about that.
After that I inspected the wirings, everything looked fairly good, only few homespun bonds.
I started the bike few times to get some volts going, but after few starts and stops it wouldn't start at all? fiddled with carb and changed spark plug, though the old one was working too, with no help. Old plug was wet and had a lot of  encrustation on it, so I thought the engine was running rich. It also backfires quite a lot which I think means lean, so I think the carburetor requires a lot of tuning, also I'm not sure if the acceleration pump is working at all? Anyone got ideas how to test? I've never had a bike with accelerator pump before
Then I checked the valve clearances and fixed them to .04mm in .05mm out, since they were something more about .2mm each.. I heard the valves were changed just before i got the bike, so I think thats quite expected.
I tried all sorts of combinations with carburetor tunings to start the bike, but nothing helped. The best I could do was few bangs. I got enough of kicking after my both ankles were so bad I hardly could walk and then just pushed the bike to a corner to wait for middle summer when I have the next vacation

Any ideas where to start the next time I'm trying to get it started?
Also I have few questions:
-How much voltage should be coming out of the magneto? Idle - High rev?
-Is there any wiring scheme available? With a repair manual etc? I think any scheme would do for now, even one with e-starter!

Edited by Low-Rider, 20 May 2012 - 02:58 AM.

[JoePass TT Silver Member]

If you haven't already found it I would suggest checking out Cafehusky.com. Lots of useful info and someone started
a shop manual thread and was compiling a list of shop manuals. Now I don't know if it had your year but I'm sure you'll
be able to find a link or something close. I'd be happy to email you the WSM for an 06' TE610.....

[varesecrazy TT Gold Member]

Hi - there are lots of threads on here about manuals - halls husqvarna has a good online guide section,
Charlie

Also I have few questions:
-How much voltage should be coming out of the magneto? Idle - High rev?
-Is there any wiring scheme available? With a repair manual etc? I think any scheme would do for now, even one with e-starter!

[Low-Rider TT Newbie]

I wrote a bloody novel here but it went straight to hell when i tried to upload it, so here's the short version

I took apart the flywheel, there was no loose parts and everything looked just fine. I forged a new piece between the flywheel and axle, since the old one had some damage on it. Put it togehter, few kicks and the baby fired up I found out the ignition system was swedish, not the ducati I was expecting, does anyone know when the ducati energia's ignition was first introduced to TE?

I changed the regulator and got the lights working, went easier than I expected!

Stunned from succes I began to open the top caps of fork, first surrendered without a fight, another broke and is now at a machining shop. If it cannot be fixed, I'm going to have to find a spare. The finnish importer couldn't get any. If anyone have any idea where to get one I'd really appreciate it! I tried the rbay and a few parts shops I've found good with no luck...

Also I've been unable to find the manual for such old husky, if anyone got any I could use a copy.
The halls husqvarna page I found sucks as a page, so if there is a good page for halls, please give the direct link, thanks

[Low-Rider TT Newbie]

There's no edit button??

Is there any manual for disassembling inverted forks, or mayby even 45mm showa fork? I've once done the job to a conventional fork but  back then it took about 2 weeks since I had no idea what I was doing and no special tools whatsoever...

I assume the basics are the same: open top cap, insert a special tool to hold the contets and open the bottom cap?

E: I found the edit

There's an excellent How To on youtube, if you'r rebuilding a fork you'd wan't to see parts 32-37. I don't know a lot about forks but these videos had nothing that some other fork rebuild videos would not have agreed. Mayby next week I'll even have the time to see if this video actually helps me

Edited by Low-Rider, 01 July 2012 - 04:54 AM.

[PALMER84ONE TT Addict]

Not sure if you have tried but I have heard that the old girls like a new plug now and then to fire up. Keeps from kicking your ankles crooked.

[Low-Rider TT Newbie]

I got the fork ready! Cannot really recommend using "pyramid parts" oil seals, they wouldn't fit... I found Harris or Ariete seals (can't remember which), they fit well.
So I put the bike back together last weekend just to find out the clutch is slipping   I had this 125ccm 4-stroke dirt bike few years ago, which had "use only mineral oil" tag on it, and the clutch started to slip right after I tried synthetic oil, which had the clutch additive. I wonder if there's a special type of clutch plates that require mineral oil, in order to keep up?? I'm using gastrol 10w-50 4-stroke racing oil, which should be fairly good stuff. Today I'll take off the engine cover and see what's inside the clutch basket, if the plates are just worn up...

Also, bay only starts cold, two-three kicks and she runs. I think I'll have to do some more adjusting, too

If you'd like to see the little photos I have of her, just tell me and i'll upload!

[Low-Rider TT Newbie]

Clutch got fixed just by cleaning plates... I tried tuning the carburettor with not much improvement, and got fed up with it. Now I'm designing circuit board for combined wideband lambda and rpm meter that shows real-time data on lcd and logs everything to laptops hard-drive. Going to put bosch lsu 4.9 sensor on it, so I can do the metering from muffler end.

Otherwise the bike is in pretty good condition now, I only have to fix few brackets to fit the plastics (mainly radiator covers) better. I'm also designing removable passenger pegs.

[Low-Rider TT Newbie]

The passenger pegs were a f*ckup in so many ways I don't even care anymore

Once the meter is still under construction and bikes not running I decided to check piston and valves, few times starting the bike I noticed blue fumes... Everything went well until camchain. There is this ~2cm pipe going from waterpump, past the chain, inside the head. I've checked the parts fiche for the engine and the pipe IS removable, any idea HOW. I've never been so good removing things without breaking anything, so any help would be appreciated. It won't just come out easy.

Thanks for all your help

[uptite TT Silver Member]

If there is an o ring around the outside of the tube under the gasket.  Use an inside flat snap-ring pliers with gentle pressure on it slightly twist and pull it should come out easily.  There will be 2 other orings on the tube.
Later george

[Low-Rider TT Newbie]

Thanks uptite! it came out pretty easy

Piston was exact 98,94mm, cylinder 98,99mm and in good condition. Valves don't have too much play, everything looked better than I expected! I was expecting plated cylinder but instead there was a normal, the one you can drill kindof cylinder.
The cylinder low end gasket was just a ~1,5mm metal plate, is this original? If not is it necessary? there is something around 4mm from piston top to cylinder top? Of course I'd like there to be a normal gasket, just for the ease of it, and I don't ever mind some extra power I think the only reason one would have replaced gasket with thick plate like that would've been pinging? Or just lowering the compression for who knows what reason...

There is also some progress with the lambda/rpm meter, an old friend had once done wideband lambda himself, and had the c program ready! Bad luck it was done for another microchip I'm going to use, but it will be great help anyways.

[Low-Rider TT Newbie]

The brandnew spark I put in a month  back was broken at the beginning... Would have saved a lot of trouble by checking that first!
I also adjusted less advance for timing, and now she fires 2-3 kicks, warm or cold !!! The only downward was power loss, I never thought that would have so much effect on that, too!
I also found a incipient crack in the clutch cover. I took it to a aluminium welding company and got it fixed pretty well, and all the oil leak was gone!

I think I'm finally getting to know the bike, expecting some shit to happen soon. Bloody murphy...

[Low-Rider TT Newbie]

Once again i'm sitting in a train and decided to update...

Something really did go wrong clutch cover cracked not once but twice. First time it was just a small crack and it was easily welded, the second time the whole piece broke in two... I tried having it welded but the welding had twisted the case so much it wouldn't fit. Also when it cracked the second time the kickstarter shaft (kick cracked the case) stopped working, there was enormous friction and sound of metal scraping metal...

Well then i ordered a new cover and installed it, but the kicker problem is still there??? Have anyone suffered from this before? first i thought the shaft was out of line because the cover was twisted and shaft couldn't  turn properly, but obviously its not that.

Now i'm heading back to work for atleast two weeks and cannot do much good.. Is there any way the kickstarter gears could be out of place? I'd hate to change the left crank too :S

[Anthon Berg TT Bronze Member]

Thanks for the inspiration - me and a friend are trying to get some soup and medicine into a bedridden '96 TE410. Good luck.

[dzrhnds TT Newbie]

what kind a bike did you say your working on?First of all the mineral oil doesent touch the clutch plates,it is for the hydralic action that disengages the clutch when you pull the lever.the reason it reqires mineeral oil is that is wontruin the seals...secondly I may be mistaken here but i am almost certian that the timing is not adjustable...it leaves me wondering how you would be able to back it off?I hate to be the one to break it to you but I think your bike is worn out and has been in the wrong hands to the point of no return.I know there is no really nice way to saythis,So I gotta say your wasting your time on a bike thats not worth fixing.Its one thing to resore a bike,kinda as a collector..But if you are aiming to have a bike that is fun,reliable and safe?wich I think you mite.I would look around for something with less problems   GOOD LUCK.hope it works out for you

[powermandan TT Member]

I have rebuilt 2 of these motors now and thrown more money than i can bare thinking about on them.

When you say there was a large amount of friction on the kickstart, i don't suppose that you installed the side cover without the gasket did you. As this will cause the problems you describe. Or have you lost the needle that the kick start shaft sits in

Also the blue flame/deceleration popping from the exhaust is normal..... Mine did it and i went exactly down the road your going, i bought a wide band 02 and set the fueling up. Still popped and banged. So i thought, lets fit an FCRMX40 to it and sort this out. Tuned it up. Still popped and banged. Personally i put that down to the exhaust which on mine have been for all intensive purposes straight through and muffle very little.

A very must doubt you will find a service manual for the bike, i have never seen one. Best you can probably do is look at parts Fiche and use the torque settings from a later bike.

Surging is common issue just off idle, the fix is apparently a slightly hotter spark plug.

There is supposed to be a base gasket, although i have seen them run without it, and it was fine.

Do not mess with the ignition timing,  it is fine as standard. If it is hard to start your fueling is probably wrong. Mine goes 2-3 kicks every time from cold

If you want to throw money at this bike,i would spend it on the suspension, the stock valving is awful.

And the best piece of advice i can give you about this bike is change the oil a lot. Mine gets changed every 8 hours of riding if not more. You dont have an oil filter and you want to protect you rod as best as possible. as if it goes you might as well write off your bike.

have fun!