WR owners whose bike starts easily with button, REPLY HERE..


34 replies to this topic
  • dirtbikekid32

Posted May 14, 2012 - 01:58 PM

#1

Ive got a 2011 WR, GYTR air pump block off kit, and supplied jets installed in bike, 09 YZ pipe, grey wire cut, and the other controversial wire that supposedly makes it start faster, (didnt work on mine)..
Anyway, bike starts easy when cold, crank the throttle a few times and it starts right up.. Always starts easy with the kick, once it gets warm though, I have a heck of a time starting it with the e button.. Usually have to hit the throttle a few times to get it goin, forget about starting it in gear with the e button.. Im pretty particular when it comes to this stuff and Im thinkin there must be something not quite right.. Ive heard a few other say that they have 0 issues with theirs and it fires right up.. My bike doesnt even have 100 miles on it yet.. Any suggestions?? What has worked for some of you??

  • Stealth13

Posted May 14, 2012 - 04:53 PM

#2

I'm interested as well mines easy to start with electric and hard to kick...

  • Jrbuete

Posted May 14, 2012 - 05:15 PM

#3

2005 WR450, GYTR exhaust, all mods except AIS removal, starts great with button (as long as battery has good charge;) and good with kick... Key is having a solid charge on the battery

  • dirtbikekid32

Posted May 14, 2012 - 05:54 PM

#4

2005 WR450, GYTR exhaust, all mods except AIS removal, starts great with button (as long as battery has good charge;) and good with kick... Key is having a solid charge on the battery


Mine hasnt started good from day 1 even with a brand new battery and no mods at all.. I rode it straight out of the crate to see how pitiful it was all restricted from the factory.. That didnt last long..

  • dirtbikekid32

Posted May 14, 2012 - 05:55 PM

#5

I'm interested as well mines easy to start with electric and hard to kick...


If I find TDC (kick start real hard to move) then push the kick start just past TDC,(like the old 426"s) then give it a full kick it starts EVERYTIME.. Great for dead engine start HS's.. But 1.5 hrs into the race when im tired and dont want to kick anymore the e button gives me fits.. I guess i could just not stall!!haha..

Edited by dirtbikekid32, May 14, 2012 - 05:56 PM.


  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted May 14, 2012 - 10:16 PM

#6

My wr450 starts up very easily. When its warm, do you use the hot start lever?

  • wrwest

Posted May 15, 2012 - 01:41 AM

#7

I have a 09 WR 450 F .
  • Ais removed
  • baffle removed
  • YZ 450 F needle NFLR fitted middle clip
  • 158 Main
  • Grey wire handlebar switch
  • [color=#FF0000]Controversial start wire cut and yes it does work , bike start on touching the button WHILE holding the hotstart pulled in[/color].
  • WR' s dont start on the e start when cold.
  • Snorkel intact and no airbox mods
  • Make sure you run a fresh plug and valve clearance is in speck.


  • MANIAC998

Posted May 15, 2012 - 04:00 AM

#8

No issues with mine, hot or cold, kick or button.

'06 WR450
AIS removed
muffler gutted, still run the pea shooter though
JD jet kit
grey wire disconnected
Blue w/white trace disconnected
Opened up airbox
Clean Air Filter

And here's the most important ones! Fresh Fuel, fresh plug, and valve clearances are checked regularly!!!

When you say "supplied jets", what does that mean? Do you know which jets are in it? I know it's a serious pain to get to the carb, especially
your model with the aluminum frame, but you've got to have the right jets in there. I change my jetting alot . Like every few weeks!!! But I love tinkering with mine, so that's just me.

Maniac

  • bg10459

Posted May 15, 2012 - 04:52 PM

#9

.... you've got to have the right jets in there. I change my jetting alot . Like every few weeks!!! But I love tinkering with mine, so that's just me.

Maniac

Very true :banghead: Great starting comes from great jetting. When I first got my WR I spent a whole season testing at temps from <30F to >90F and came up with jetting solutions for about every 20 degree change. My bike started easily most of the time. If I was jetted slightly too lean, I wouldn't need the hotstart, when it was slightly too rich, I would. That was a good indicator that it was time to re-jet. Then I got the YZ and lost interest in constantly swapping jets in a 4-stroke.....

  • Bandit9

Posted May 15, 2012 - 05:14 PM

#10

Mine starts fine. It doesn't like to e-start in 3rd or higher after a stall or fall, but that is par for the course with 4 strokes. I'll gladly trade having to find neutral vs kicking it.

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  • dirtbikekid32

Posted May 15, 2012 - 05:26 PM

#11

No issues with mine, hot or cold, kick or button.

'06 WR450
AIS removed
muffler gutted, still run the pea shooter though
JD jet kit
grey wire disconnected
Blue w/white trace disconnected
Opened up airbox
Clean Air Filter

And here's the most important ones! Fresh Fuel, fresh plug, and valve clearances are checked regularly!!!

When you say "supplied jets", what does that mean? Do you know which jets are in it? I know it's a serious pain to get to the carb, especially
your model with the aluminum frame, but you've got to have the right jets in there. I change my jetting alot . Like every few weeks!!! But I love tinkering with mine, so that's just me.

Maniac


I installed the jets that were supplied with the AIS removal kit, it also came came with instructions to do the free mods.. I wrote down the jets but conviniently I cant find where i wrote them down now. The elevation they referenced in the AIS kit was close to mine.. i belive it was a 160 main and 45 or 48 pilot?? Dont quote me on that tho, id have to take it back apart to determine that.. Have never used the hot start button, Like i said I can get t to kickstart first time everytime, fires right up, Using the e start button it usually has to turn over a fuel times and usually requires a blip of the throttle to fire up.. Wouldnt be a big deal but every second counts in a HS..

The blue wire with the white tracer made no difference at all in my bike, I reconnected it and disconnected it a few times and noticed no difference at all, kicking it or using the e button..

Mine starts great cold with the e button, Like i said crank the throttle back 2-3 times pull the choke, and a revolution of the starter and its running.. if i kick it cold, usually starts first kick..

  • travertt

Posted May 15, 2012 - 05:33 PM

#12

Anyway, bike starts easy when cold, crank the throttle a few times and it starts right up.. Always starts easy with the kick, once it gets warm though, I have a heck of a time starting it with the e button..



Are you using the hotstart lever when trying to start it warm? If not, that may be your problem. If I try to start mine after being off for only a minute or three....it will not e-start unless I pull in the hotstart lever...then it starts no problem.

  • dirtbikekid32

Posted May 15, 2012 - 05:49 PM

#13

Are you using the hotstart lever when trying to start it warm? If not, that may be your problem. If I try to start mine after being off for only a minute or three....it will not e-start unless I pull in the hotstart lever...then it starts no problem.


No i havent tried that.. I guess i should haha..I was under the assumption that the hot start button leaned it out a bit to start it, If i give my bike a shot of throttle it will try to start, so i guess i assumed that using the hot start would be going the opposite way.. maybe my understanding is wrong?? Im not used to the Hot start button, I never used it on my 02 426. Ill give that shot and see what happens.. thanks for the advice!!!

  • travertt

Posted May 15, 2012 - 06:01 PM

#14

No i havent tried that.. I guess i should haha..I was under the assumption that the hot start button leaned it out a bit to start it, If i give my bike a shot of throttle it will try to start, so i guess i assumed that using the hot start would be going the opposite way..



You are correct when you say the hotstart lever leans out the mixture. It allows extra air into the engine without mixing with gas thru the normal carburattor airflow.

My understanding of the logic is simple (and maybe even correct!).....if a cold engine requires more than the normal amount of gas (the choke)...then a hot engine requires less then the normal amount of gas (hotstart lever).

Give it a shot...I expect you'll be a happy guy!

  • MANIAC998

Posted May 15, 2012 - 06:04 PM

#15

Yes, the hotstart lever does lean the jetting out when used. It opens a passageway for air to bypass. Instead of air going thru the carb and picking up more fuel, it just goes thru the passageway and directly into the engine. Give it a try, and let us know what you find out.
Maniac

  • dirtbikekid32

Posted May 15, 2012 - 06:53 PM

#16

You are correct when you say the hotstart lever leans out the mixture. It allows extra air into the engine without mixing with gas thru the normal carburattor airflow.

My understanding of the logic is simple (and maybe even correct!).....if a cold engine requires more than the normal amount of gas (the choke)...then a hot engine requires less then the normal amount of gas (hotstart lever).

Give it a shot...I expect you'll be a happy guy!

Yes, the hotstart lever does lean the jetting out when used. It opens a passageway for air to bypass. Instead of air going thru the carb and picking up more fuel, it just goes thru the passageway and directly into the engine. Give it a try, and let us know what you find out.
Maniac


Sweet.. Sounds good will def give that a shot.. That would be great if thats all it is.. I dont want to take that stinkin carb out again.. It sucks on this bike, alot worse than the 02.. Racin this wkend.. ill report back.. Thanks again..

  • miweber929

Posted May 15, 2012 - 07:12 PM

#17

My 04 starts hot, cold, early morning, late at night, first start of the season and last start if the year without issue using the electric starter.

PO jetted the bike according to FMF's suggestions for the Q2 on it, did the o-ring mod, every winter I put Stabil in it, charge tge battery and all is good.

Mike

Edited by miweber929, May 15, 2012 - 07:13 PM.


  • Bandit9

Posted May 15, 2012 - 07:37 PM

#18

My 04 starts hot, cold, early morning, late at night, first start of the season and last start if the year without issue using the electric starter.

PO jetted the bike according to FMF's suggestions for the Q2 on it, did the o-ring mod, every winter I put Stabil in it, charge tge battery and all is good.

Mike


That is what I'm talking about. This has been the lowest maintenance bike I've owned out of 7 bikes. I change the oil every 4 rides, clean air filter, and lube cables and levers, that is about it.

  • DrFeelGood

Posted May 16, 2012 - 06:47 AM

#19

My 08 starts hot, cold, in gear, out of gear, bump start, whatever.

If it's really hot and I crash it or lay it down on a hill, I'll need to pull the hot start lever.

Other than that, choke + three cranks of the throttle when it's ice cold.

Two cranks of the throttle when it's been sitting for 1/2 hour.

No throttle if I just stop on the trail to chat up another rider.

FMF full exhaust
JD Jet kit as recommended for my altitude (168 main 48 pilot) 1 1/2 turns out on the flexjet screw
Grey wire cut

  • RSanders

Posted May 16, 2012 - 09:54 AM

#20

I have a modded 2011 WR450F that starts wonderfully every time. Your procedures may vary but this is what works for mine every time.

Mods:
titanium mega bomb + factory 4.1
FMF jet kit, recommended settings without changes spring-fall Michigan ~1000'
Power now/Power now plus
D&R power bowl (acc pump + leak jet mod)
YZ throttle stop
No toil air filter w/o backfire screen
Removed airbox snorkel and plate
Plated in MI

With AIS installed and grey wire not cut the bike runs perfect pulling strong from idle to redline with a GPS max speed of 83.2MPH using stock gearing on level gravel road. The AIS has had no negative impact on the tune ability or performance, this bikes pulls away from GYTR WR's pretty hard on county roads. I'm going to test the grey wire removal this weekend but the bike has ran so well I've left it for the last 1000+ miles. No other wires were cut (only some splices for on road equipment)

Starting procedure and results:

Cold:
1 Put in neutral
2 Turn on fuel
3 Turn on choke
4 Twist throttle four times
5 Press button for two seconds

90%+ start at 5, after two seconds repeat steps 4 and 5 once maybe twice. No throttle is required, bikes starts and runs on choke until warm then push it in and ride away.

Warm start:
1 Put in neutral
2 Press start button (wait 2 seconds)
3 squeeze hot start (while start button is pressed) (hold 1 second and release then repeat 3-4 times)

90%+ will start at 3 after one or two squeezes of the hot start (holding for 1 second). If the bike doesn't fire right up roll the throttle while turning the starter and squeezing and releasing the hot start. Once you hear it hit, stop for a moment and start at #2

Flooded/Warm start after crash
1 Pick up bike quickly, fuel is probably spilling out!
2 Put in neutral
3 Hold start button (no wait)
4 Hold down hot start
5 Roll throttle to full
6 Wait 5-10 second (while motor is turning)
7 Chop throttle closed
8 Release and press hot start
9 Release starter button after 15-20 seconds, wait 2, and revert to Warm start procedure above

The only times it's been hard to start is after a good crash, using the steps above gets me back down the trail. Pinning the throttle open with the hot start level pulled seems to help flush out the excess fuel, then I just treat it like a warm start. Just remember every time you twist the throttle a little fuels squirts so make sure you don't pump it when it's hot. Just twist it to full and hold it for the duration of the procedure above.

Also, the factory battery is pretty weak. Make sure it's fully charged and maintained. I have a new lithium battery on my desk, but last season and the first 20hr of this season was on the OEM battery.




 
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