Valve clearance around .002 on all four valves - KLX300
Started by
KLX Idaho
, May 10 2012 01:19 PM
10 replies to this topic
Posted 10 May 2012 - 01:19 PM
I have a 2003 KLX300 and I checked the valve clearance while I was putting in my new 34mm Mikuni from FSW. I am using the factory manual to get the piston TDC and to line up the "T" mark. I also verified that the marks on the cam gears are lined up with the top of the head. I can fit my smallest feeler guage, .003, about 2/3s of the way between the cam lobe and the lifter. I'm assuming a .002 feeler would slide all the way through.
I called the dealer mechanic and he wasn't much help as far as where to start with the shims. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Randy
I called the dealer mechanic and he wasn't much help as far as where to start with the shims. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Randy
Posted 10 May 2012 - 01:48 PM
Are you using inch guages or mm guages? At any rate .002mm or inch is out of spec. and you need to adjust them.
Specs:
Intake: .10mm (.004 in) - .19mm (.007 in)
Exhaust: .15mm (.006 in) - .24mm (.010 in)
I'm a little supprised that the exhaust valves have closed up...They usually go the other way (loose).
Hangplt
Specs:
Intake: .10mm (.004 in) - .19mm (.007 in)
Exhaust: .15mm (.006 in) - .24mm (.010 in)
I'm a little supprised that the exhaust valves have closed up...They usually go the other way (loose).
Hangplt
Posted 10 May 2012 - 03:04 PM
OK, the cam lobes weren't pointing in the right direction. Once I had the exh lobes pointing forward and the int aft, the exh valve clearance is in spec 6 to 7 thousandths. The right intake is at .076mm and the left (looking forward) is .05mm. Both shims were 3mm.
Using the inlet valve adjustment chart, I'm deducing that I need 2.90mm for both intake valves. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Using the inlet valve adjustment chart, I'm deducing that I need 2.90mm for both intake valves. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Posted 10 May 2012 - 03:15 PM
The bloody things are expensive! $22.00 for 2. I hope the hell they make them within spec!
Posted 10 May 2012 - 05:30 PM
hangplt, on 10 May 2012 - 01:48 PM, said:
I'm a little supprised that the exhaust valves have closed up...They usually go the other way (loose).
Hmmm. I thought that both intake and exhaust get tighter in their tolerances due to valve face and seat wear over time. Maybe I'm wrong?
Best regards.
Posted 10 May 2012 - 08:05 PM
Each bike does something different. All 4 of mine were nearly closed up when i did mine last.
But i SOOOO hope i caught you before buying shims... BUY A KIT!!! I FREAKED when i seen the price of shims, and my shops wont do exchanges (Some do a shim for shim swap). But on fleabay, the hotcams kits are only $60 and you get 3 of almost every shim... then worst case you'll only need to pick up one shim, or fudge the distance.
And if you have the manual, read further as to what shim to use. Theres a cool chart to get you started... i just guessed and checked lol.
But i SOOOO hope i caught you before buying shims... BUY A KIT!!! I FREAKED when i seen the price of shims, and my shops wont do exchanges (Some do a shim for shim swap). But on fleabay, the hotcams kits are only $60 and you get 3 of almost every shim... then worst case you'll only need to pick up one shim, or fudge the distance.
And if you have the manual, read further as to what shim to use. Theres a cool chart to get you started... i just guessed and checked lol.
Posted 11 May 2012 - 06:26 AM
That's why I post! Great info from those that have already been there. Thanks!
Posted 11 May 2012 - 06:32 AM
BTW, my shop will do the exchange until it's right. For this season I'm going to use the shop, but by next season, I will buy the kit. I want the thing back up and running with the new pumper carb and header pipe. I did 50 miles in the mountains wednesday before the swap, so I'm anxious to ride after the swap.









