Help with overheating
Started by
Stealth13
, May 08 2012 05:54 PM
31 replies to this topic
Posted 10 May 2012 - 10:33 AM
Hey stealth pm me yer number I can help you out.
99pos... Search button is your friend
99pos... Search button is your friend
Posted 14 May 2012 - 03:43 AM
Pooley has given you the answer. Jet the bike properly. Your mates bike doesn't overheat because it is jetted properly! Sounds like you really don't want to jet it! Why have you taken it back to the mechanic when the answer has been given to you! Do you want a different answer? You asked a question and you got the answer!
Sorry if it sounds harsh but why ask the question if you are not willing to listen to the knowledgable answers you are provided!
Sorry if it sounds harsh but why ask the question if you are not willing to listen to the knowledgable answers you are provided!
Edited by td42ti, 14 May 2012 - 03:44 AM.
Posted 14 May 2012 - 05:33 AM
Mine is no longer overheating. But this may seem a bit off topic. If the bike won't idle and chokes off but does fine when giving gas. Should u move the needle up? I've tried the air/fuel mixture screw from closed to 5 turns out nothing, tried Turing the idle up nothing. What should I do
Posted 14 May 2012 - 05:55 AM
Hey stealth.. it sounds like your bike is hella lean. Mine was doing similar things..culprit...fuel screw oring not seated, it was sucking air. Take a can of carb cleaner, with bike running, spray around carb boots, and anywhere else it may be sucking air. If you have an rpm change while spraying carb cleaner, you have an air leak.
Posted 14 May 2012 - 06:13 AM
td42ti, on 14 May 2012 - 03:43 AM, said:
Pooley has given you the answer. Jet the bike properly. Your mates bike doesn't overheat because it is jetted properly! Sounds like you really don't want to jet it! Why have you taken it back to the mechanic when the answer has been given to you! Do you want a different answer? You asked a question and you got the answer!
Sorry if it sounds harsh but why ask the question if you are not willing to listen to the knowledgable answers you are provided!
Sorry if it sounds harsh but why ask the question if you are not willing to listen to the knowledgable answers you are provided!
Posted 14 May 2012 - 09:10 AM
its way up in there. use a tiny flat head screw driver for one andb6mm for other
Posted 14 May 2012 - 09:26 AM
So it's in the same cap? I used a 6mm I think for the main, so I have to reach past that one with a flathead? How am I supposed to get it back in after ??
Posted 14 May 2012 - 08:26 PM
nuckingfutts, on 14 May 2012 - 05:55 AM, said:
Hey stealth.. it sounds like your bike is hella lean. Mine was doing similar things..culprit...fuel screw oring not seated, it was sucking air. Take a can of carb cleaner, with bike running, spray around carb boots, and anywhere else it may be sucking air. If you have an rpm change while spraying carb cleaner, you have an air leak.
Let me clarify further.. my bike ran ok. header would glow within 30 seconds of idling. very rough idle. After air leak was fixed (lean condition) bike runs great. I have had this issue on more than one bike. The intake manifold AKA carb boot, is a big culprit of this..not properly seated, a crack, which is very difficult to see, or any other part of the carb (fuel screw) ect. can cause this. Diagnosing is simple. Your rpms should not change if you spray a properly sealed carb with carb spray (outside). If they do, that is your problem. You can muck around all day changing jets ect, and problem will still remain if you are sucking air.
Posted 15 May 2012 - 04:05 AM
The easiest way to work on the carb is to take it off. Notice I said easiest, not quickest. Stealth, you need to find some riding buddies that can help you work on that bike.
Maniac
Maniac
Posted 15 May 2012 - 06:32 AM
MANIAC998, on 15 May 2012 - 04:05 AM, said:
The easiest way to work on the carb is to take it off. Notice I said easiest, not quickest. Stealth, you need to find some riding buddies that can help you work on that bike.
Maniac
Maniac








