Anyone experimented with <22.5mm offset? 18mm? 20mm?
Posted 07 May 2012 - 09:42 PM
I'm wondering how hard it would be to adapt some 18/20 adjustable KTM clamps just to experiment with. I had these on my old KTM 380 and had no complaints about the front end behavior from slow speed woods stuff to highspeed desert.
Has anyone experimented with offsets less than 22mm or so? What were the results? I'm hoping any instability issues would be addressed with the lowered bike and the more relaxed steering angle but the decrease in offset will still have snappy steering on corner entries.
3 gal tank, 18" rear wheel, guards on everything
'09 450 swingarm/linkage
Yamalink for '09 450 (lowers 1")
Ohlins TTX (stock length)
Ohlins fork inserts
5.3kg rear spring, 0.46kg front spring, 180lbs w/o gear on, ~200lbs geared up w/pack
100-105mm rear sag, 45-50mm front sag
Forks set about 1-2mm below 1st line
Tires: 120 width Kenda Parker DT rear, 90 width Kenda Washougal Sticky front
The bike has lately been getting used for everything from Erzberg type of trails to highspeed desert to MX tracks. Stability is #1, won't sacrifice that much for cornering behavior, but want to have both.
Posted 08 May 2012 - 04:51 AM
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Posted 09 May 2012 - 01:02 PM
Posted 09 May 2012 - 03:04 PM
Going to 22.5 offset actually improves stability. BUT, it takes some looking to find it since it moved weigh on to the front wheel, makign the steering feel faster. This is especially true at low speeds. I had to revalve my forks to really love the 22.5 offset. In sand, the stock forks and 22.5 were tough to deal with due to oversteer...massive tucking constantly. The problem is there in the stock forks, but 22.5 makes it worse.
Is it worth doign? Maybe. How much? At rg3's triple clamp prices? Probably not. At 65.00 why not?
Posted 09 May 2012 - 10:17 PM
I know how 22-23mm feels (whatever -2mm is with the E-axle). I was curious about real world results with offsets less than that. I guess I could find out fairly easily with the 2010 450 clamps and the E-axle to try out 20mm.
Keep in mind I'm also running a lowered rear end which keeps that weight off the front. I didn't run into any diving issues up front with that link and the proper springrates front and rear when running less offset.
Posted 13 May 2012 - 07:57 AM
Posted 13 May 2012 - 05:29 PM
1. moved the forks up in the clamps until they hit the handlebars
2. put in a 1/2" travel limiter into the forks (performed on both my Slavens '05 forks and my '08 test forks; I do not miss the 1/2" travel in the terrain that I ride; not recommended for you desert guys!)
--- this nets to 1.125" lowered front
The bike definitely steers quicker but does not understeer. Great improvement! I'm a 170 lb 'B' rider running .42 fork springs and 5.0 rear spring which seem perfect for my weight and riding conditions. Oh yeah, I'm not sure it matters but I'm also running a '07 rear relay arm in the rear linkage. Incidentally, a ridng buddy who weighs 240 lbs did complain about oversteer but the springs are so far off for his weight that I don't thing this counts.
This thing steers GREAT. I really love these old steel frame bikes, especially the '03 and '04 models.
Posted 13 May 2012 - 05:44 PM
Before trying to make something "better" try to define "better" for you or your situation. Since triple clamps are expensive and do some very specific things, I cannot tel you what better is for you. I wanted my front end stuck to the ground like glue without losing stability. 22.5's gave me that. But, without fork tuning the front end would tuck. Especially in sand. No biggie as I rarely ride sand. But a fork revalve gave me the feel I needed and wanted.
Posted 13 May 2012 - 06:05 PM
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