Basic Questions? Self destruct?


22 replies to this topic
  • allterra

Posted May 05, 2012 - 07:35 PM

#1

I have ordered the book for a 07 wr450, but it has been backordered and they will not refund. I am hoping to have it next month. My questions are as follows. What oil type and viscocity do we need to run in this beast. Second is on the computer portion. I can see that there is a trip odometer (I think), clock and a speedo. I have seen people talking about hours and mi/km on thier bikes. I don't think I have found these screens. I've pushed the buttons and found how to change the time and how to change from mi to km. beyond that I don't know. I hope I haven't activated the self destruct feature.

Edited by allterra, May 05, 2012 - 07:37 PM.


  • allterra

Posted May 05, 2012 - 07:43 PM

#2

sorry I almost forgot are there any Grease fitting on this bike or do the bearing need to be pulled to be greased.

  • lach_23

Posted May 05, 2012 - 08:09 PM

#3

WIth your oil man, I was talkin to some guys who have ridden Yamaha's for a while and they reckon this stuff is awesome http://www.belray.com/node/9710/buy , that's about all I can help you with at the moment though man.

  • allterra

Posted May 05, 2012 - 08:22 PM

#4

99550 10W-50
Bel-Ray Works Thumper Racing Syn Ester 4T E/O 10W-50 Case of 12 - 1L Btls $247.37

Holly cow if I'm reading this right it had better make the bike run with out gasoline.

  • woods-rider

Posted May 05, 2012 - 08:31 PM

#5

No hourmeter or odometer on the stock computer, just two resetable tripmeters, a clock and speedometer in standard mode. There are some time keeping functions in race mode, but not an hourmeter. Sorry, not sure why Yamaha didn't put one or both of those functions on the computer. I know that I would love to have both.

  • allterra

Posted May 05, 2012 - 08:38 PM

#6

No hourmeter or odometer on the stock computer, just two resetable tripmeters, a clock and speedometer in standard mode. There are some time keeping functions in race mode, but not an hourmeter. Sorry, not sure why Yamaha didn't put one or both of those functions on the computer. I know that I would love to have both.


Thanks

  • Rocky739

Posted May 06, 2012 - 05:05 AM

#7

I'm using Yamalube 10-50 from rocky Mtn for about 30 something a gallon, I've had good luck with silkolene and motorex oils before also. No need to remortgage house for oil ESP as it needs to be changed often. People are touchy about oil but any clean oil will beat the best dirty I figure. Lots of people even use shell rotella from big box stores and have great luck, as long as it has the correct JSO rating thingy it will work. Assume the hour thing is referring to aftermarket hour meters.

  • n16ht5

Posted May 06, 2012 - 08:20 AM

#8

After tons of research I settled on Valvoline racing synthetic 20-50W. Add an HR meter and change every 7-10hrs. Stainless Steel oil filter, clean every change

  • BajaFool

Posted May 06, 2012 - 05:23 PM

#9

You can't go wrong if you use the manufacturer's oil --- YamaLube R. I personally think that Maxima makes the best motorcycle specific lubrication products on the market. I use Maxim SynBlend 10-40. Change your oil every 300 miles and your filter every 600 miles. Your motor will thank you for this act of kindness. Go to this link for your Owner's Handbook on line. It is in four languages, work out which one you can read. :banghead: http://www.yamahaown...ook.com.au/?r=0

  • allterra

Posted May 06, 2012 - 06:59 PM

#10

You can't go wrong if you use the manufacturer's oil --- YamaLube R. I personally think that Maxima makes the best motorcycle specific lubrication products on the market. I use Maxim SynBlend 10-40. Change your oil every 300 miles and your filter every 600 miles. Your motor will thank you for this act of kindness. Go to this link for your Owner's Handbook on line. It is in four languages, work out which one you can read. :banghead: http://www.yamahaown...ook.com.au/?r=0


Thank you very much I thought there might be a pdf of the WR bible out there somewhere I think this is just what I needed to get me through this next month.

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  • MANIAC998

Posted May 06, 2012 - 07:37 PM

#11

As for the bearings, no grease zerks. Your going to have to pull'em. And yes, there going to need it!!!!
Maniac

  • lach_23

Posted May 07, 2012 - 02:38 AM

#12

99550 10W-50
Bel-Ray Works Thumper Racing Syn Ester 4T E/O 10W-50 Case of 12 - 1L Btls $247.37

Holly cow if I'm reading this right it had better make the bike run with out gasoline.



I think thats wrong that should be the price or like 5 litres haha.

  • Rocky739

Posted May 07, 2012 - 06:49 PM

#13

I'll second the pull and grease all bearings. My were dry as a bone. Threw some anti-seeze on all the bolts esp the chain adj bolts while I was there. Ounce of prevention thing...

  • pschiess

Posted May 07, 2012 - 09:04 PM

#14

I have ordered the book for a 07 wr450, but it has been backordered and they will not refund. I am hoping to have it next month. My questions are as follows. What oil type and viscocity do we need to run in this beast. Second is on the computer portion. I can see that there is a trip odometer (I think), clock and a speedo. I have seen people talking about hours and mi/km on thier bikes. I don't think I have found these screens. I've pushed the buttons and found how to change the time and how to change from mi to km. beyond that I don't know. I hope I haven't activated the self destruct feature.


Send me a PM with your email address and I can email you the pages out of the manual that you need. I have an 07 also. I can scan everything you need and will email to you in a PDF file.

  • allterra

Posted May 07, 2012 - 10:55 PM

#15

Send me a PM with your email address and I can email you the pages out of the manual that you need. I have an 07 also. I can scan everything you need and will email to you in a PDF file.

Thanks for the offer. I have what I need for the moment. BajaFool found the manual online in pdf form. I think it is an AU version but it has the basic tear down that I can use along with some common sense. The AU bikes may have different gearing and settings as well as electronics but the mechanical make up seems to be the same

  • allterra

Posted May 07, 2012 - 11:21 PM

#16

As for the bearings, no grease zerks. Your going to have to pull'em. And yes, there going to need it!!!!
Maniac

I'll second the pull and grease all bearings. My were dry as a bone. Threw some anti-seeze on all the bolts esp the chain adj bolts while I was there. Ounce of prevention thing...


oh ya I have so far torn everything appart up front and have not found a single zerk. New fork seals, repacked front wheel and head bearings. Checked brake fluid and piston operation. Cleaned contacts and rerouted wires and harness behind head light. That plus a short ride (3 hours, 1.85 hours moving per GPS) killed yet another weekend. One ? for you we ( my friends and I) have been debating here. I put loctite on the end of my bolts with neverseize on the rest of the threads and base of the head. They say I am wasting my time. note I have never had a seized bolt or had one rattle out. also I do use a tourque wrench faithfully if I can find the #'s.

  • MANIAC998

Posted May 08, 2012 - 03:26 AM

#17

The Never-seize is a great idea, and one that I use regularly. I don't use the loctite on many of the bolts, mostly just Sprocket mounting bolts and such. I definately wouldn't use the loctite on the radiator shroud to gas tank mounting bolts. You don't want to get one stuck and have the insert start spinning inside the fuel tank. Where in Vermont do you live?
Maniac

  • allterra

Posted May 08, 2012 - 07:48 AM

#18

The Never-seize is a great idea, and one that I use regularly. I don't use the loctite on many of the bolts, mostly just Sprocket mounting bolts and such. I definately wouldn't use the loctite on the radiator shroud to gas tank mounting bolts. You don't want to get one stuck and have the insert start spinning inside the fuel tank. Where in Vermont do you live?
Maniac


I am in the Burlington area near Lake Champlain. Good point on the shrouds I will keep that in mind. I use the 222 (purple) loctite on most fastners. on the axle, brake calipers and other heavy bolts I will use 243 (blue). These seem to have worked well for me in the past. Thanks for the heads up on the tank inserts.

  • Rocky739

Posted May 08, 2012 - 02:03 PM

#19

Got to talking to a rocket science buddy, no I'm not joking a real rocket scientist and he was telling me the difference between zinc anti seeze (it's for parts that don't get disassembled often) and copper anti seeze it's for stuff that comes apart more often. Never knew... Now another potion to add to my chem shelf!

  • MANIAC998

Posted May 08, 2012 - 07:01 PM

#20

Got to talking to a rocket science buddy, no I'm not joking a real rocket scientist and he was telling me the difference between zinc anti seeze (it's for parts that don't get disassembled often) and copper anti seeze it's for stuff that comes apart more often. Never knew... Now another potion to add to my chem shelf!



Hmph!!! What the heck does he know?! He's probably not even a dirtbiker!!!!

(thanks for the info!)

Maniac




 
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