Trying to bring my 05 450X back to life after a 2 year hiatus.
Posted 01 May 2012 - 03:59 PM
After reading through all this I'm curious if people smarter than me can tell me if they see anything here that would be my obvious culprit. If not can someone point out some other things I can check while I have the bike apart. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Posted 01 May 2012 - 04:11 PM
- clean the passage above the pilot with monofiliment wire. It is "S" shaped
- new fuel screw oring
- replace the apump diaprhram and seals
- clean out the apump nozzle: spray brake cleaner up the angled passage directly below the nozzle, under the bowl cover
Posted 02 May 2012 - 05:50 PM
Krannie, on 01 May 2012 - 04:11 PM, said:
- clean the passage above the pilot with monofiliment wire. It is "S" shaped
- new fuel screw oring
- replace the apump diaprhram and seals
- clean out the apump nozzle: spray brake cleaner up the angled passage directly below the nozzle, under the bowl cover
Parts on order, will give all of this a go. Thanks for the info Krannie, I'll keep you updated!
Posted 05 May 2012 - 01:34 PM
Posted 05 May 2012 - 01:47 PM
Jake76, on 05 May 2012 - 01:34 PM, said:
Did you clean the passage above the pilot jet?
Have you verified your hot start and choke plungers are not corroded or leaking?
Posted 05 May 2012 - 05:30 PM
Krannie, on 05 May 2012 - 01:47 PM, said:
Have you verified your hot start and choke plungers are not corroded or leaking?
As a matter of fact I have not.
Posted 05 May 2012 - 06:14 PM
Jake76, on 05 May 2012 - 01:34 PM, said:
A 48 pilot is very big.
If it will not idle, the problem lies in the pilot jet / fuel screw circuit, no where else.
Make sure the idle screw is not artificially high.
2.5 to get best idle means your pilot jet is too small, OR that you have an air leak. Well, the pilot is NOT too small....
Are you following the standard pilot jet / fuel screw protocol?
With a hot engine:
Adjust fuel screw for highest idle. Drop idle with idle screw. Repeat until you can keep it running with the lowest idle. 1/8 turns to fine tune, with a throttle blip and a 10 second wait between turns. You want approx 1.5 turns. The fuel screw must have a washer and a new o-ring for it to work.
As mentioned:
- hot start plunger: they corrode, get stuck part way open, and leak
- Air jet in intake bell: they fall out
- carb boots: they get old and crack and leak
- fuel screw washer and oring
Posted 06 May 2012 - 06:22 PM
Posted 30 July 2012 - 05:18 PM
Posted 30 July 2012 - 07:45 PM
Edited by RollingJ, 30 July 2012 - 07:47 PM.
Posted 08 September 2012 - 02:57 PM
Krannie, on 05 May 2012 - 06:14 PM, said:
A 48 pilot is very big.
If it will not idle, the problem lies in the pilot jet / fuel screw circuit, no where else.
Make sure the idle screw is not artificially high.
2.5 to get best idle means your pilot jet is too small, OR that you have an air leak. Well, the pilot is NOT too small....
Are you following the standard pilot jet / fuel screw protocol?
With a hot engine:
Adjust fuel screw for highest idle. Drop idle with idle screw. Repeat until you can keep it running with the lowest idle. 1/8 turns to fine tune, with a throttle blip and a 10 second wait between turns. You want approx 1.5 turns. The fuel screw must have a washer and a new o-ring for it to work.
As mentioned:
- hot start plunger: they corrode, get stuck part way open, and leak
- Air jet in intake bell: they fall out
- carb boots: they get old and crack and leak
- fuel screw washer and oring
Is it OK to run the bike out of fuel? Normally I do this after loading the bikes, so that it is cooled off while driving home, it usually takes 2 minutes or so to run out.
Posted 08 September 2012 - 03:31 PM
David B, on 08 September 2012 - 02:57 PM, said:
Yes, but there is still fuel in the float bowl. If you want it dry, you'll have to open it up, or lean it over on both sides to drain it dry.
Posted 09 September 2012 - 02:52 PM








