Rear wheel bearing exploded...questions about hub

Started by 06wrx , May 01 2012 03:30 PM

27 replies to this topic

  • 06wrx

Posted 01 May 2012 - 03:30 PM

#1

I realize I'll obviously need new bearings, inner spacer and dust covers, but is the rear hub destroyed?
Anyone make an aftermarket hub that I can get laced to the stock wheel?
2001 DRZ400S.

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Was just riding along and started hearing some crunching noises coming from the rear end.  Took it easy riding home(wheel was still solid, wouldn't rock side to side or anything)...only to find this carnage.  The right side bearing is completely gone.  Only remains I found were some of the balls from the bearing, which obviously helped destroy the rear hub and inner spacer-which actually had one ball "welded" to it.  

An expensive day of riding :banghead:
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  • restosud

Posted 01 May 2012 - 05:26 PM

#2

clean it up good first.
is that a crack on the bottom on first pic?
odds are the hub is ok once you remove the outer races.also check the area where the seal presses for a snug fit.

  • Noble

Posted 01 May 2012 - 06:48 PM

#3

Exactly right.  What you care about is if the bearing is still a tight fit in the hub..  The damage to the interior is of no consequence.  Get the bearing race out and see what you have. Getting the race out might be interesting.

  • Kawazuki-400

Posted 01 May 2012 - 08:29 PM

#4

Run a small bead of weld around the inside of the bearing race being carefully it don't blow through the side damaging the hub and the race will just fall out the weld will make the bearing race contract

  • 06wrx

Posted 02 May 2012 - 08:36 AM

#5

View Postrestosud, on 01 May 2012 - 05:26 PM, said:

clean it up good first.
is that a crack on the bottom on first pic?
odds are the hub is ok once you remove the outer races.also check the area where the seal presses for a snug fit.

What appears to be a crack is just a scratch with grease running down it.  I saw it too and went back out to the garage to check it.  I ordered the new bearings(paid for 2 day shipping so I could ride this weekend) but the spacer is back ordered everywhere.  Even tried the Kawi dealer for a KLX400 one, but they are back ordered as well.

I wonder if I got the proper sized steel pipe and milled it to the correct length if I could use that instead of trying to find this OEM spacer before the weekend.  Problem is, I'm unsure if the one I have is the correct length as it has been worn/cut down from the damage to it.

Edited by 06wrx, 02 May 2012 - 08:39 AM.

  • Jobistober

Posted 02 May 2012 - 08:41 AM

#6

View PostKawazuki-400, on 01 May 2012 - 08:29 PM, said:

Run a small bead of weld around the inside of the bearing race being carefully it don't blow through the side damaging the hub and the race will just fall out the weld will make the bearing race contract

Sorry, but doesn't heat make metal expand?

  • gots_a_sol

Posted 02 May 2012 - 09:21 AM

#7

Welding will make it contract. Its not the same as simply heating something up.

  • 06wrx

Posted 02 May 2012 - 09:38 AM

#8

Even if it doesn't contract much, Putting a bead on it at least will give me something to put a screw driver on from the other side to pound it out.  I just wonder if it's steel...or some sort of alloy.

  • ROMAD

Posted 02 May 2012 - 09:44 AM

#9

IF the hub is trashed you should give RAD hubs a look. OEM sprockets and rotors bolt right up and fit the RAD hubs and come in standard weight as well as lighter weight options. The wheel bearings are over-sized with common sized sealed bearings (nothing exotic/hard to find). If you are looking for a wheel builder I had great service and pricing by calling up fasterusa.com and working out the details. (no I dont work for them, just very pleased with the products and services they sold me)

  • Noble

Posted 02 May 2012 - 10:02 AM

#10

Heat will make it expand, yes. BUT the shrinkage due to welding will make it shrink after it cools. Can I say it? Cool idea and I would not have thought of it.  I like it.

  • Jobistober

Posted 02 May 2012 - 10:10 AM

#11

Point taken, thanks guys. Good to know.

  • 06wrx

Posted 02 May 2012 - 03:15 PM

#12

Well I tried getting that race out without welding...didn't work so well.

I welded 4 small beads at the 12-3-6-9 positions flipped the wheel over, and tapped it out evenly with a screwdriver, worked great.
Only one bearing on the brake side, two on the sprocket side.  A bit weird.
Does anyone know if the All Balls rear wheel bearing kit comes with all of the required bearings?

  • threadkiller

Posted 02 May 2012 - 04:19 PM

#13

View Post06wrx, on 02 May 2012 - 03:15 PM, said:

Well I tried getting that race out without welding...didn't work so well.

I welded 4 small beads at the 12-3-6-9 positions flipped the wheel over, and tapped it out evenly with a screwdriver, worked great.
Only one bearing on the brake side, two on the sprocket side.  A bit weird.
Does anyone know if the All Balls rear wheel bearing kit comes with all of the required bearings?

Yes, but they are cheap bearings. Best to source some Japanese bearings, in my experience.

  • dark_knight

Posted 02 May 2012 - 04:43 PM

#14

Bummer. The same happened to me and new (used) hub was the outcome. I replace my bearings each season now with quality bearings. check out my thread here.  

http://www.thumperta...bearing failure

Good luck on getting it sorted for the weekend.

BTW, I discovered OEM hubs and aftermarket hubs don't always lace up the same way to the OEM rim.

  • 06wrx

Posted 02 May 2012 - 07:14 PM

#15

Having trouble trying to find somewhere to get this inner spacer before the weekend.  Looks like riding this weekend might be out.

  • Noble

Posted 02 May 2012 - 08:25 PM

#16

That is an unusual failure.  Not often the internal spacer needs replacement so not likely to find one on the shelf.  Local machine shop can make one.  Original is aluminum, right? Steel would work fine too.

  • 06wrx

Posted 02 May 2012 - 10:14 PM

#17

View PostNoble, on 02 May 2012 - 08:25 PM, said:

That is an unusual failure.  Not often the internal spacer needs replacement so not likely to find one on the shelf.  Local machine shop can make one.  Original is aluminum, right? Steel would work fine too.

Not a bad idea, but it's only like 20 bucks from the dealers(surprisingly cheap), but I gotta wait probably about a week to get it in.  I'd imagine it'll cost an arm and a leg for a machine shop to mill it and all.  I don't even know the correct length since it got pretty mangled.  I have to buy a CRF rear master cylinder as well...I have the warped reservoir syndrome.  It's also time to replace the chain, sprockets, rear brake pads, and a rear tire, and I need a new Speedo(mine stopped working, I've been relying on the GPS for my speed on the streets)  When it rains it pours...and my wallet gets a whole lot lighter.

  • slowriding

Posted 05 May 2012 - 02:12 AM

#18

View Post06wrx, on 02 May 2012 - 10:14 PM, said:

Not a bad idea, but it's only like 20 bucks from the dealers(surprisingly cheap), but I gotta wait probably about a week to get it in.  I'd imagine it'll cost an arm and a leg for a machine shop to mill it and all.  I don't even know the correct length since it got pretty mangled.  I have to buy a CRF rear master cylinder as well...I have the warped reservoir syndrome.  It's also time to replace the chain, sprockets, rear brake pads, and a rear tire, and I need a new Speedo(mine stopped working, I've been relying on the GPS for my speed on the streets)  When it rains it pours...and my wallet gets a whole lot lighter.

the length will be the same as the width of the hub between the bearings.  On most bearings the inner race and outer race are the same width.  The spacer is to ensure that no side load is placed on the bearing by tightening the axle.  To keep the inner in line with the outer races the spacer has to match the hub.  You can probably use the rod that comes out of the end of a vernier to reach through and measure.

  • Noble

Posted 05 May 2012 - 06:34 AM

#19

The length of the spacer needs to be slightly longer then the hub space between the bearings.  0.5 to 1.0mm longer.  The spacer will shorten under compression of the axle torque so it has to be a bit longer for safety of the bearings.  If you look closely at Suzuki assembly drawings, they even show the space between the bearing on one side and the hub.  First one side bearing is seated against he hub, then the spacer in installed, then the other side bearing is seated against the spacer.

  • 06wrx

Posted 05 May 2012 - 04:57 PM

#20

I just ordered it from Bike Bandit.  Apparently it'll ship in 1-2 days.   I'll just have to wait.  
I had Bike Bandit dollars left over, it dropped the cost of it down to 18 bucks.  I'd never be able to get one machined for that much.
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