VALVES , OIL ,AND AIRFILTERS



12 replies to this topic
  • 426ER

Posted September 06, 2001 - 08:08 PM

#1

THANKS ALOT GUYS FOR ALL YOUR HELP..I JUST NEED TO KNOW WHAT IS A GOOD HOUR LIMIT TO GET A VALVE AJUSTMENT ? I KNOW THAT THE DEALERSHIP TOLD ME EVERY 20 HOURS BUT THAT SEENS LIKE IT WOULD BE IN THERE ALL TIME CAUSE ON A GOOD WEEKEND I WILL SPEND 6 HRS AND THAT IS DESERT [OCOTILLO ] TO BE EXACT.IHAVE HAD THE BIKE SINCE JAN 01 AND HAVE DONE THE VAVLES TWICE.ALSO I CHANGE MY OIL EVERY 3 RIDES IS THAT GOOD AND NOT EVERY RIDE IS THAT LONG SOME SHORT. LAST BUT NOT LEAST AIRFILTER WHAT IS GOOD WAY TO CLAEN IT AND WHAT OIL IS THE BEST TO USE ON THE FILTER? THANKS GUYS .P.S. THE SADDLEBACK PARK IN O.C. HAS BEEN CLOSED DOWN HOPEFULLY ONLY TEMP.JUST IN CASE YOU GUYS OUT THERE CARE

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LOS

  • Tim

Posted September 07, 2001 - 05:10 AM

#2

426er,
I have had my '00 426 since last april. I have checked my valves 3 times, all three times they are fine. I change my oil after each ride. Oil (I use) is cheap,and has alot of detergents in it. Then I clean the oil filter after about every three rides. This may not be 100% needed, but gives me a good piece of mind that I know the inside of my bike is clean. I have used the notoil system for cleaning the air filter, along with simple green and PJ-1 air filter oil. The notoil system is cleaner, and easier to use. I never did get my "free" oil filter like you are supposed to, with the Notoil kit. I usually clean the air filter about as often as I do the oil filter, after three days of riding. I consider a day of riding about 8 hours.
Hope this helps
Tim

  • Chiledog!

Posted September 07, 2001 - 06:48 AM

#3

Hey good question about the valves. I have had my bike since May and have not even though about the valves. My XR buddies seem like they are always adjusting there's. About the air filter I quickly learned the stock one is junk. For about 24 bucks you can get a Twin or UNI and it does a much better job. As far as cleaning it I am a finatic and clean it all of the time. I soak it with some gas to break up the oil and then wash it two or three times with Lemon Fresh Joy,(That usally comes with an a-- chewing for stinkin up the kitchen). I do not know if this is good but it works for me. I use the PJ1 Oil filter spray and just spray it on the outer filter. One problem I have had over and over is if I don't let the filter air out after spraying it for about 6 hours my plug fouls in about twenty seconds after I start it. (Wierd Huh?) I have tried putting just a tiny bit of oil and the plug still fouls. I am going to change oil when I run out. I read an article about the FCR carbs and this being a problem but I can't remember where. Well I better stop here I don't want to talk your ear off. What was that about Saddleback I have never ridden there, post some info.(Please)
Have you ever gone to Lake Silverwood and ridden from there to Big Bear or Arrowhead?
A lot of great ridin up there.

Seeya!

Chiledog!

  • DOC

Posted September 08, 2001 - 11:09 PM

#4

I don't think using fuel to wash your air filter is a good idea. From what ive been told, the petrol expands the pores inside the foam filter, so it doesn't trap dirt as well as it could. Unifilter recommends using metho as their preferred cleaning agent, but it stinks pretty bad. Ive been using truckwash and it works great. Doesn't stink up your house and rinses out easily.
After doing some research, Mobil 1 bike oil seems to be about the best stuff out there. I do 400 to 500 kms between changes, and Mobil 1 holds its viscosity for a really long time, so im happy with that.

  • sirthumpalot

Posted September 09, 2001 - 04:01 AM

#5

Cannot help you with the valve question, my '01 hasn't needed it yet. But as far as cleaning the air filter, my personal favorite cleaner is the air filter cleaner (I have been using Uni brand). It doesn't smell as bad as other solvents and you just spray it on, let it soak for 10-15 min and then hose it off and the filter comes out looking like new. Be sure to let it dry 100% before you oil it. Squeeze it in a rag to get the most of it out and then put it in front of a fan if you're in a hurry (some guys have multiple filters, not a bad idea!). As for the filter oil I find it best to apply some a small amount at a time and kneed the filter while you apply it to spread it out (just like the directions on the oil bottle). When the entire filter is covered be sure to wrap it in a rag and squeeze it as tight as you can a couple of times to get the excess out. Be sure not to wring it or it will definitely fall apart, just wad it in a ball and squeeze it. I've only had to clean the filter on my '01 a few times but I have never had a problem with plug fouling or poor running after cleaning my air filter.

  • Matt_W

Posted September 09, 2001 - 04:43 PM

#6

I change my oil and clean my air filter after every ride !!! I am very anal about these two aspects. I clean the oil filter every other ride, and you need to check your frame oil filter at least once. I use Yamalube 20W-40, and nothing else!! I tried Mobil 15W-50 once, and I will never ever stray from Yamalube again.

This is my first 4-stroke bike (owned 2-strokes all my life) and I know little to nothing about valves. I've read the manual about checking the valve timing and clearance and it sounds like rocket science to me. How many of you adjust your own valves, and how often is it necessary to do? How do you know when it's time for a valve adjustment? I am just a weekend warrior trail rider, I very very rarely am in high gears tapped out. Would you say my valves can go further between adjustments?

------------------
Matt W
00 YZ426F
94 YZ 250
http://www.mattwilliard.com
"Don't worry about me, how's my bike ?"

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • DOC

Posted September 09, 2001 - 11:08 PM

#7

What was wrong with Mobil 1 15W50??? Isn't washing your air filter after every ride just giving it more wear and tear after repeated chemical cleaning and mechanical wringing? Just a thought.

  • Matt_W

Posted September 10, 2001 - 01:14 AM

#8

I own the infamous 2000 model YZ 426 which has a grabby clutch problem. I had not experienced this issue during my first 3 rides and I had changed my oil religiously with Yamalube. I didn't have time to get to the local Yamaha shop so I stopped at the local auto parts store and picked up some 15W -50 Mobil 1. I heard others on this board recommend it so I figured it couldn't hurt. As soon as I pulled out the clutch just chattered and grabbed like crazy, and all day the shifting was absolutely lousy. The next ride after a Yamalube oil change, all clutch grabbines and shifting problems were gone !!! I don't know the scientifics behind oil types, but I know Yamalube works far better than the Mobil 1 in my bike!!!

I ride in the coal regions of Eastern Pennsylvania, and the coal dust is real fine and just hangs in the air. After just one ride, my air filter is virtually black !!! Regardless, if you clean your air filter properly, there is very little wear on the filter. I think the biggest killer of engines is dirt getting past the filter, thus I make sure my air filter is cleaned after each ride. I use PJ1 air filter cleaner in the aerosal can. It's far less harsh than gasoline, and it does a great job of breaking up the filter lube and dirt. I then rinse with warm water and squeez out the excess water. DO NOT wring the filter, just ball it up and squeeze out as much excess water as possible. I then let the filter air dry and re-lube. After re-lubing I wrap the filter in paper towels and squeeze out any excess lube. My filters last 6 months or more with this ritual and I ride and clean them once per week.



------------------
Matt W
00 YZ426F
94 YZ 250
http://www.mattwilliard.com
"Don't worry about me, how's my bike ?"

  • DOC

Posted September 10, 2001 - 12:01 PM

#9

Very good, well done. If i was in your position im sure i would wash my fiter after every ride also. Have you tried filter skins? Just might save you some time and money.
Not sure why people on this site are using automotive Mobil 1. Mobil make bike specific full synthetic oil. Theres a big debate, but from what they say, their bike oil contains friction modifiers that are compatible with wet clutch systems. Not trying to sell you the stuff, what ever works best for you.

  • sirthumpalot

Posted September 10, 2001 - 12:45 PM

#10

Mobil makes a motorcycle specific synthetic oil? How much is it and where do you get it? Spectro is the only thing available near by and at about $6/qt I am willing to try something else. About an hour from home is an oil supply company which will sell oil by the case to individuals at wholesale prices (they have a cashear at the warehouse). I purchase mobile synthetic gear oil for my truck this way and save a bunch, maybe the same will work for motorcycle oil!?

  • DOC

Posted September 10, 2001 - 07:40 PM

#11

Have a look at Mobils web site www.mobil.com and look at their bike specific oils. Im using Mobil 1 4T Racing but there is also MX4T, which i would like to use, but my local distributor is too slack to order it in. Since its made in the USA, it should be readily available to you. Compared to other bike oils over here, 4T is a bit cheaper than Motuls 5100 semi-synthetic oil. Go and see your local distributor.

  • sirthumpalot

Posted September 11, 2001 - 02:25 AM

#12

Thanks for the info. I checked it out and they are recommending it for on-road bikes with no mention of off-road bikes. :) How long have you been using it and did it change the way that your clutch or gear box felt in any way?

  • DOC

Posted September 11, 2001 - 01:03 PM

#13

Strange how they don't mention off road bikes, hey? I emailed Mobil and they assured me that it would be suitable for my application. The oil is used for hi-tech four stroke engines with wet clutch systems. I guess it shouldn't matter if the bike was on the road or on the dirt.
Here is Australia, the Yamaha motocross racing team CDR uses Mobil 1 in their YZF's. See their web site at www.dackracing.com. It is an agreed fact that you will lose some clutch smoothness when using this oil, but it is also true for any full synthetic oil, regardless of brand. This is motorcycle specific oils we are talking about.
I bought my bike new and did the first few hundred clicks on Shell mineral oil. It is important to use mineral oil while running these engines in. Since i switched to Mobil 1, i can honestly say that my clutch feel hasn't changed that much, if at all, and gear shifts are as smooth as before.
I must have at least 2000 clicks on my bike now, and just recently i removed the valve cover for a valve clearence check. The motor was spotless inside. A big advantage over a mineral oil.
The reason why i went to this oil is because after researching the topic, i found Mobil 1 held its viscosity for a very long time compared to other oils, and in fact, its probaly the best there is. Amsoil and Redline are the other two oils with excellent viscosity properties, but these are unavailable in my area. If you are interested, go and see www.oilanalysis.com. Their discussion board may solve some questions you may have on this topic.





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