01 WR250F Engine Seized

ickfinger

Posted 25 April 2012 - 02:52 PM

#21

trapper07, on 24 April 2012 - 01:08 PM, said:

he's at TDC in the pics so how would you explain his intake cam then....it should be inline with the head at TDC.
only the exhaust cam should be off the mark if he YZ timed it.....and that's assuming it doesn't have a YZ cam put in it.
and it looks like 13 pins between marks..... so guess again!

I was only able to view pics of cams looking to be a tooth advanced, didnt see bottom end @ tdc, sorry

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jamesm113

Posted 26 April 2012 - 06:03 PM

#22

Got the Cylinder off. Piston pin is stuck in there. I'll figure that out later, I guess, I'm going to work on pulling the engine and splitting the crank now.

I did notice some discoloration on the crank:

Posted Image

Edited by jamesm113, 26 April 2012 - 06:09 PM.

Yamaryder29

Posted 26 April 2012 - 06:30 PM

#23

Looks like it got pretty hot. How's the rod turn in the crank?

jamesm113

Posted 26 April 2012 - 06:51 PM

#24

It turns ok, but there is some play on the con rod from side to side

Yamaryder29

Posted 26 April 2012 - 06:58 PM

#25

A little amount of side play is normal. Keep diggin, you'll find the problem eventually.

jamesm113

Posted 26 April 2012 - 07:01 PM

#26

Is the con rod supposed to move back/forth without much resistance?

Yamaryder29

Posted 26 April 2012 - 07:07 PM

#27

jamesm113, on 26 April 2012 - 07:01 PM, said:

Is the con rod supposed to move back/forth without much resistance?

Side to side, yes, if that's what you mean by back/ fourth. There should be a small amount of side play. The rod should have no up/ down play and should rotate freely.

jamesm113

Posted 26 April 2012 - 07:10 PM

#28

Yamaryder29, on 26 April 2012 - 07:07 PM, said:

Side to side, yes, if that's what you mean by back/ fourth. There should be a small amount of side play. The rod should have no up/ down play and should rotate freely.

There's no up/down play, but what do you mean by rotate freely? It's very difficult to get the rod to move independent of the crank

Yamaryder29

Posted 26 April 2012 - 07:14 PM

#29

Hold the crank stationary. The rod should be able to turn without the crank moving. If you can't turn it, that's most likely why your bike froze.

Edited by Yamaryder29, 26 April 2012 - 07:22 PM.

jamesm113

Posted 26 April 2012 - 07:23 PM

#30

Yea, it moves, but it takes a LOT of work. So much work that the bike started tipping off it's stand. I take it that's not normal

ronbuell

Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:58 PM

#31

metal sticking to magnets is bearing cage from the main rod bearing.... it got hot. You can see the flywheel turned blue. Buy a new crank and piston, rings, pin, clips and gaskets. Check the tranny bearings while the clutch is apart for ruffness... and count your lucky stars.

oldnbold

Posted 27 April 2012 - 07:47 AM

#32

ronbuell, on 26 April 2012 - 08:58 PM, said:

and check your oil pump for scarring from metal debris. scarring of the metal results in much lowered oil pressure/volume leading to failure a few hrs after the rebuild.

jamesm113

Posted 03 May 2012 - 09:11 AM

#33

I just bought a used bottom end from a dismantler. Ending up being $390, but it included everything. Saves me the time and hassle from splitting the crankcase, pulling the crank and finding every last bit of metal that circulated through the engine and transmission. Just need to get a piston kit now.

Do i need a drill press to hone the cylinder, or will a hand drill do the job?

Swede73

Posted 03 May 2012 - 09:44 AM

#34

Research the honing process. Some people use a scotch brite pad to knock the glaze off. The cylinders are coated with a very thin layer and you do not want to go thru that layer.

jamesm113

Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:51 PM

#35

Well the new bottom end has a discolored crank too. Grrrrrrrrrr. Looks like it's going back.

Posted Image

Edited by jamesm113, 04 May 2012 - 08:51 PM.

Obie1

Posted 04 May 2012 - 09:07 PM

#36

James, if you decide to keep it after any feed back from the forum. I would buy the stator off it from you to recoup some $. Good luck my friend. I just rebuilt my 01 WR as well and added the 290 kit as well as new bottom end and valves. Anxious to ride it, Just need a new stator and it will be complete.

Swede73

Posted 05 May 2012 - 12:38 AM

#37

That discoloration is from the assembly process where they heat it up and install the shaft.

jamesm113

Posted 05 May 2012 - 08:19 AM

#38

It's hard to believe that's normal.. My old one (the seized one) didn't have discoloration on both sides, but the "new" one does.

Charlie755

Posted 05 May 2012 - 09:15 AM

#39

I agree with swede. I have that same discoloration on the brand new Hot Rod crank I just installed on my 08.

jamesm113

Posted 05 May 2012 - 10:32 AM

#40

Okay, so the discoloration is from when the assembled the crank from the factory? Or from when the crank was pressed in the crankcases?

How do I tell the difference between normal discoloration and something is wrong discoloration?

Edited by jamesm113, 05 May 2012 - 10:35 AM.

ickfinger

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