Fitting polisport MMX headlight on 2011 YZ450F - ECU to be moved?

Electrical Lights & Accessories Polisport MMX Universal Headlight

33 replies to this topic
  • RcrMg

Posted January 15, 2013 - 04:07 PM

#21

You'll be tickled to know that it was 52 degrees today in southern SoCal. 35 last night. Global warming?


Not sure anymore about global warming. That day was over the weekend and today here in Mi it was a high 28 or something like that and it will be down to like 10 tonight, lol. Crazy weather.

Either way I still need to get a light on my YZ. I just haven't ordered anything to play around with it and just seeing if anyone else has.

  • sergey

Posted February 03, 2013 - 05:56 PM

#22

After finding no useful info on relocating the ecu heres what I came up with. Seems mouniting it on the left side rad brace (moose racing) is the only way you can get it in proper position. The stock wiring is barely enough but it works.

Posted Image

The next question is what headlight should i get now, as space is not an issue any more. Tried to run stock 2010 wr450f headlight and it looks cool and works ok, even with both filamets (hi/lo) connected at the same time. But I was hoping to run HID/LEDS. Hid ballast DOES ignite from the stock diagnostic port wiring but it causes ECU to shutdown in 10 seconds for some reason. Probably a better ballast will work without disturbing/interfering the ECU. As for the LED setup I see the Baja Designs Squadron unit as the only option, but I dont like the polisport shell, and the price of 350 usd.

Edited by sergey, February 11, 2013 - 06:41 PM.


  • drtrcr400

Posted February 03, 2013 - 06:22 PM

#23

Wow, good job relocating the ECU. I plan on eventually getting the Squadron myself. You should try it out and let us all know how it works :thumbsup:. On a side note, Baja Designs did tell me the Squadron wouldn't interfere with the ECU. Also I believe B.D. offers a 10% for forum members, but don't quote me on that.

Edited by drtrcr400, February 03, 2013 - 06:28 PM.


  • RcrMg

Posted July 11, 2013 - 08:35 PM

#24

Hey just wondering if anyone else has tried any other headlight setups and how they worked.

  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted July 13, 2013 - 10:02 AM

#25

After finding no useful info on relocating the ecu heres what I came up with. Seems mouniting it on the left side rad brace (moose racing) is the only way you can get it in proper position. The stock wiring is barely enough but it works.

Posted Image

The next question is what headlight should i get now, as space is not an issue any more. Tried to run stock 2010 wr450f headlight and it looks cool and works ok, even with both filamets (hi/lo) connected at the same time. But I was hoping to run HID/LEDS. Hid ballast DOES ignite from the stock diagnostic port wiring but it causes ECU to shutdown in 10 seconds for some reason. Probably a better ballast will work without disturbing/interfering the ECU. As for the LED setup I see the Baja Designs Squadron unit as the only option, but I dont like the polisport shell, and the price of 350 usd.


You'll need to add in a small NiCad or other 12 volt battery pack into the equation for HID. The reason the ECU is shutting down is because when the ballast is first fired up it takes maybe twice the power to get going and then settles down to normal power requirements after about 10-15 seconds. If there is a small battery pack in line it will pull that extra power from the battery, otherwise it's pulling it from the system and not allowing enough for the ECU. There are many many options for led, but if you are looking for a shell mounted system the BD light might be the only one. Plenty of mounting options to be had though if you just wanted to mount a small led light bar without moving the ECU or even without moving the number plate.

From the Cyclopes website. I think this light is about 30 watts, but there are some other light bar options out there running four 10 watt leds.
http://www.cyclopsad...s photo_164.JPG

Edited by OUTERLIMITS, July 13, 2013 - 10:04 AM.


  • grayracer513

Posted July 13, 2013 - 06:26 PM

#26

You'll need to add in a small NiCad or other 12 volt battery pack into the equation for HID. The reason the ECU is shutting down is because when the ballast is first fired up it takes maybe twice the power to get going and then settles down to normal power requirements after about 10-15 seconds.


Maybe three times, or more. On an HID with a nominal 30-35w draw once hot (a little less than 3 amps at 12v), starting current can run as high as 10 or 11 amps (120-132w). HID's work a lot like the old carbon arc lamps in that they have to start an arc and build an ionized gas trail to follow, rather than a glowing filament. Bright as hell, but they take a lot to get lit up.

  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted July 23, 2013 - 06:58 PM

#27

Exactly, so I think that as long as there is some kind of battery upstream from the light (I like the Trailtech 3.7 ah nimh better than the BD 700 mah NiCad just because of the added capacity, but it is a bit more expensive) the YZ should be able to run hid. I think the led light that BD sells for the bike draws about 42 watts so as far as ultimate power consumption, if it can power that, it should be able to power the hid as long as a battery is added just before the ballast/ignitor.

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  • grayracer513

Posted July 23, 2013 - 07:13 PM

#28

It can be done, Brett, but the trouble has always come back around to the fact that nobody has yet been able to make a YZ450F stator support both lights and ignition reliably.

In theory, the idea is fine, really. You have a battery that's capable of the surge needed to start the light, and has, maybe, 2 hours run time in it on its own. Then you add a lighting coil capable of running the lamp at full power 60% of the time or more, and the whole thing lasts much longer than the battery life, even though it still needs charging after using it a while.

I don't know the precise reason why it doesn't work, but I believe it's simply that the wire gauge required to accomplish this on a YZ450 is impractically small, and simply doesn't hold up.

  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted July 23, 2013 - 07:39 PM

#29

I was referring to the efi bikes that seem to drive enough wattage as long as the bike is running before switching the light on. The poster above mentioned running both high and low together at the same time from a stock WR light, which I would think would demand quite a bit more than a standard hid (after warmed up). The wire gauge in the stock YZ harness could very well be too thin, that's a very good point. Still, if that gauge is big enough to handle the 42 watt squadron led, I would think that it would handle the 35 watt hid, except maybe at start up. I'm guessing here that the wire gauge needs to be of proper size between the battery and the light as that is where the highest amp draw will take place during start up rather than the wiring upstream from the battery. I use 14 I think and it's overly stout compared to the stock WR wiring. Either way, probably worth having a discussion with the Baja Design guys as there must be a reason they steer you towards the led rather than the hid beyond just the battery requirement.

  • grayracer513

Posted July 24, 2013 - 08:46 AM

#30

That is a different thing. There's two threads about PS headlights, and the other one is for an '04. I got crossed up about which one this was.

You're right, though. It seems to bear out that as long as the headlight is off while you are starting, the EFI bikes will support that kind of loading. Running the whole thing on the DC side of the rectifier would simplify the matter, and it seems I remember that the output of the magneto on these is somewhere north of 100 watts to make them powerful enough to self start the EFI. Adding the battery takes out the risk of the high draw killing the engine at near idle speeds.

14 gauge wire used as chassis wire is considered adequate for up to 32 amps, well beyond the needs of even a pair of HID's. 18 gauge rates at 16A, and 20g at 11A. 16g (22A) and 18g are a lot easier to work with, and 18 is about as light as I'd use, just on the basis of physical durabilty, bashing around on a dirt bike and all.

  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted July 24, 2013 - 07:15 PM

#31

I have not really seen the stock mounting of the ECU, but wondering why it seems it interferes with mounting a headlight. Does it really stick out more than say a stock odometer on a WR or is it just because the Polisport headlight fits so flush to the forks? If the head light just fits too flush, why use that one, is it mostly people like the looks of that one?

  • RcrMg

Posted July 24, 2013 - 07:38 PM

#32

I bought a Polisport because to me it's the best looking DOT legal headlight I could find that will let me pass inspection. I am in MI and we can't use HID or LED headlights as they are not DOT approved. That's the main reason I went with the Polisport.

I mounted my headlight up and actually it seemed to fit without the ECU harness plugged in, but it's impossible to ride without it plugged in. I tried it plugged in and the back of the headlight where the bulb goes interferes with the harness the way it's mounted. Actually mainly the plastic clip portion of the harness for the connection to the ECU hits.

I thought of making a couple brackets to move the ECU up out of the way but I vetoed that idea as I figured the harness would still be in the way.

I ended up moving mine to the back of the left rad like the guy above. No problems that way.

  • MikeMack

Posted July 26, 2013 - 04:15 PM

#33

Lights for my 2010 YZ! This is an EFI model YZ, and there were a few skeptical mechanics that told me it couldn't be done - HA! Thanks to loads of good info posted on the TT forums, some trial & error, and my trusty mechanic Steve Sage, it was a success!

Polisport HMX (LED) headlight ~ $100 (clears the ECU with mounting kit supplied)
Polisport (LED) tail light ~$30 (very small and lightweight)
K&S universal headlight on/off switch ~$25
K&S pressure switch (for rear brake light) ~$30
Galfer front brake line to clear the headlight (I bought one that fits the 2013 WR model because the YZ stock front brake line is too short) ~$90

This works and looks AWESOME - No battery required! I have been running this setup for about 4 months (see profile pic). The LED lights are bright, don't dim at low rpm, and they use very little power. The stock stator has plenty of extra juice to run the lights, but needs a lot to start the bike and fire the EFI. Turns out the bike even starts easily without switching the lights off (they draw very little), but the on/off switch was a good idea and was inexpensive.

I didn't use this harness but it's worth checking out...
Baja designs has a plug-in switch for the EFI YZ harness & instructions for connecting the switch and wiring harness on a YZ450 EFI bike. http://www.bajadesig...NSTRUCTIONS.pdf

One Small modification: hole drilled through the headlight mount left side for the brake line to feed through - lines up perfectly with the guide on the left fork.

Happy Wheelies!

  • sergey

Posted September 29, 2013 - 10:22 PM

#34

After finding no useful info on relocating the ecu heres what I came up with. Seems mouniting it on the left side rad brace (moose racing) is the only way you can get it in proper position. The stock wiring is barely enough but it works.

ajxrzxeksg.jpg

The next question is what headlight should i get now, as space is not an issue any more. Tried to run stock 2010 wr450f headlight and it looks cool and works ok, even with both filamets (hi/lo) connected at the same time. But I was hoping to run HID/LEDS. Hid ballast DOES ignite from the stock diagnostic port wiring but it causes ECU to shutdown in 10 seconds for some reason. Probably a better ballast will work without disturbing/interfering the ECU. As for the LED setup I see the Baja Designs Squadron unit as the only option, but I dont like the polisport shell, and the price of 350 usd.

 

Got myself some modern and very small hid ballast and guess what - bike runs no problem and even starts with headlight on. I have now 2008wr headlight unit with hid - fits nice - you just need original upper brackets from wr and longer brakeline.

 

d8u.JPG

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Edited by sergey, September 29, 2013 - 10:44 PM.






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