I said that I'd do a thread detailing my restoration so here it is. Not much action on this side of the forum but it will be good to document my restoration. This bike came to me in pretty good condition to begin with. Here is a starting picture.


There is not a lot wrong with this bike but there are a few things. Previous owner and friend said that there was an oil leak, didn't start, no head light, rusty gas tank, and frozen master cylinder for the front brake. So far I have found that the oil leak was caused by a dry o ring that was stuck to the case in the oil pump. I'm going to replace it but for now it is sealing after I oiled it up pretty good. Also going to replace the shift seal as it had a lot of grease and dirt packed around it. I got a head light from someone that didn't need theirs for 10 bucks and it works. The gas tank I cleaned out with "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner. The master cylinder is quite frozen so I just let it soak in a vinegar solution to see if it will eat some of the corrosion up.

As for the not starting problem I found that all of the connectors under the seat were very badly corroded, however the ones by the headlight look brand new. Pretty strange so I assume it was stored in a shed and the back end was closet to the door, but if not I haven't got a clue why. I hooked a battery up to see if I could get anything from the lights and the starter. Got absolutely nothing. So that's when I started looking at the connectors and testing with a meter. There was infinity resistance when the leads touched on opposite sides of the connector as illustrated in the following pictures.

I had started cleaning the leads but paused to show a picture to everyone. Here is a connector that I was talking about. By the way I fried that regulator but I will get to that in a second.

Only got a resistance out of the top right pin. I soaked it in a bag of vinegar and salt over night, brushed it with a nylon brush for about 45 seconds to remove the film, then with a brass brush for about 30 seconds and they look fine now. Not brand new but they have a resistance now.

Also after doing this to all of my connectors I was able to get the lights to come on, though the flasher relay must be burnt out as they didn't flash just stayed constant. I still am getting nothing from the starter motor but that is not the switches fault or the battery. I believe it will need to come out and be cleaned very well. I tried to "jump" it by placing a screw driver across the terminals of the starter switch and still got nothing. That is dangerous but I had to see. I do get spark when I kick it over though so I will make a temporary gas tank this weekend and see what I can do about starting the bike. I am very excited about it. I mentioned the headlight works too, I was surprised that all of my switches are still good. Most people complain that they rust apart on their bikes, mine seem great other than the master cylinder. Oh and I fried the regulator being an idiot. Forgot to disconnect the battery and let the positive lead make contact with the frame and the regulator and it started smoking. Really was kicking myself after that brilliant piece of work. Not only did I fry a probably decent piece of equipment I also could have seriously injured myself with a mistake like that. Good thing I always wear gloves I guess when working with this many amps, only takes 5 mA or .005 A to stop a heart.

So on the agenda for the weekend is try to start the bike, pull the starter motor out, finish up the gas tank if it starts and possibly line it with POR-15. The gas tank is clean of rust but I am not sure if I trust the Phosphoric Acid not to leave little flakes of phosphate in the fuel to clog my jets. Next week I also have a lot going on so might not get everything done that I want, should have an interview for an internship not that it has anything to do with the bike but oh well. I'm happy about it I'll get started on Friday after class and work and keep everyone posted. Do hope this side of the forum picks up though, these bikes are very cool.

subscribed, I just started shopping for a late 70's early 80's standard.

Awesome! Good luck. I got lucky with this one, a friend just gave it to me because he didn't have the time. so far I've gotten further because I got it to spark. Soon we will know if it runs.

I'd wait until you get a good deal, some people don't know what they have and just want it gone.

Well the bike runs and runs alright even. Started very quickly. I made a little gas delivery system. I call it that because it was not a gas tank. You can see it in the video, works but little odd.



It smokes pretty good on the left side from cylinders 2 and 3 but that is alright. It is not blue, I do not know what is causing it but I will find out.



If anyone has any suggestions on how to solve the smoking just throw it up here. I'm open to any and all suggestions.

Edited by jostith, 13 April 2012 - 05:55 PM.

The smoking is probly from a valve guide more than rings. It doesn't look real bad to me. Maybe just needs to be rode to come out of it.
Did it sit for a while before you got it?

Are you making a cafe racer with it?

Did it sit for a while..... yes. It has sat for what I am assuming is 26 years. The registration that was in the holder under seat only goes so far as 1986 and since he seemed to keep good records that seems a fair guess as to when it ran last. Also the license plate is from 1986. I ran it again it smoked for a while out of that side and then smoked some out of the other side and then stopped from both but then started at both again. I'm thinking that it just needs to be run for a while, and allowed to idle by itself. The original bill of sale from the dealer was is in there. Once I get it restored and running well I am going to frame all of that with it. I think it would be a cool touch to my garage. Coolest project a 22 year old could have, and to get it running was awesome.

I am not making it into a cafe racer. I've got a buddy that is doing that with his CB350 he just stole. He got a running 74' (I think) CB350 that is orange and in great condition. The guy he got it from said that the motor was rebuilt but no fluids were ever put in it to see how it ran. He poured oil and gas in and fired it right up. He got it for $600. Mine was free but has taken some work, though not much money.

Thank you for not cutting up a classic

The valve stem seals are probably drried up from non use. they will warm up and expand and it will stop smoking.  Only remedy is to pull the head and replace the seals. If I was you I would just ride it and ride and ride it and keep the oil level full and clean.

jostith, on 15 April 2012 - 08:24 AM, said:

Thank GAWD!  That crap is so played out now.  And most of the time the person never finishes and winds up with just a ruined motorcycle.  

Bike looks great, it sat similar amount of time mine did.  Maybe a rich carb or ignition problem causing the smoke?  

About your connectors, I use a flat jewelers file and gently file clean the spade connectors, then wash them out with WD and apply dielectric grease to the connection.

The front master cylinder on my Kaw was pretty nasty with crystalized fluid and junk.  I just washed it out with brake clean and pumped new fluid in there.  Been working ever since (knock on wood).    "Do as I say, not as I do."  haha

Edited by Jeekinz, 08 June 2012 - 08:38 AM.

This is very interesting timing. haha. I actually just spent around $200.00 on some new parts which should be enough to get it running on the road. Really looking forward to my first ride on it. Got some 1000 grit wet or dry sandpaper the other day and have just been working on the covers. The aluminum was pretty bad but is looking much better now. Got some polish and have been rubbing it down but for now I am just going to leave it looking a little shiny rather than crazy shiny. Can see my reflection so good enough until it is completely apart this winter for the big overhaul.

As for the OSPHO gas tank treatment, it worked. But made me super nervous. I poured in some sea foam just let it sit there for a few days so that I could see if it would eat away at the stuff but it didn't. But there were some very small particles in the tank that made me too nervous. Figured some fuel filters would solve it but ended up going with this stuff.



Already threw in the paint remover and then the lacquer thinner to make sure that it is clean so when the stuff gets here just going right in. Supposed to be easier than POR-15 and seal up better too. Got a new petcock so as soon as it all gets here and it is sealed up going to get it riding this weekend.

The whole motivation was that I rode a buddies 350 that is 2 years newer I believe, it was amazing. Not even in as good a shape as mine but looked awesome and was a blast. So it is time. Not that I ever gave up but was taking a little break because of funds. Got a raise at work and threw the money at the bike I will soon be posting more frequently if there are still people interested in it.

Here is what the right transmission cover looked like before I sanded it down. I am assuming that it is light corrosion but not entirely sure. As you can see in this picture there are a couple bolts missing... they were so crappy after I removed them that I decided to just replace them on both sides and eventually on the top so they were in the parts I ordered. Zinc coated Socket Head Cap Screws from Fastenal at 12.9 grade. Ordered more than I needed by a couple of each size for 11 bucks (That is a for the transmission cover, alternator cover, and the chain cover totaling about 30 bolts I believe with the extras).


Now this is what the cover looks like after sanding it down a bit. Took a long time but I think it looks decent.



Going to finish it up with 2000 grit to remove all the small scratches and they are very light, the flash just made them look worst.

Edited by jostith, 11 June 2012 - 02:47 PM.

jostith, on 11 June 2012 - 02:30 PM, said:

Still interested, I'm still waiting for the right bike....I thought I had an 82 gs1100l but the guy wanted too much for a project bike.

Edited by skisnh, 11 June 2012 - 03:58 PM.

You can use a soda blaster to clean/brighten your engine.  Seal up any openings real good.  I use WD-40, Scotchbrite pads and 0000 steel wool on the covers followed by some polish.

Well I got the Caswell liner kit in the mail. It came on Wednesday and didn't have time to start it until yesterday. I was very nervous about the whole procedure. It was difficult but certainly not impossible. The kit is good for a 10 gallon tank depending on inside surface area. For my CB500 gas tank (capacity is almost 5 gallons I believe but not quite) I ended up using all of it. I first put in the first half and "swished" it around.... and I use swish very loosely. More like working with molasses. But it looks pretty decent, the underneath looks like crap still but the gloss is nice. We will see how well it works because I am afraid that in some places it pulled away form the tank. The second portion that I used was thinned slightly with thinner and worked a lot better. The directions say to watch heat really closely, has to stay between 70 and 85. I suggest doing it in the house to start with and immediately after stepping outside and finishing it up out there so that it is a bit warmer. It looks like it is going to work really well though and didn't take too long at all to do, bout an hour or two.

I got the petcock installed and going to do the gasket for the alternator next and then probably going to take a ride real quick. Not sure how smart it will be but oh well.

Well another issue has arisen now, the carbs are leaking... or one of the four is so I have to figure out which one. That shouldn't be a big deal, just drop the float bowl and spruce up the needle valve. By leaking I do mean over flowing, not leaking.

I pulled the starter motor and tore into it a bit. After doing some thinking I thought that maybe the cable in was fine, as I checked continuity and it was good, I thought maybe the other issue would be it making contact with the case. Turns out that was the case, no pun intended I sanded the outside to try and remove the slight oxidation and grit and it works great now.

It sounds a lot like a harley and still smokes and sputters so I am thinking that the timing is off. It is either one of two things I think, the timing is way off or the spark plug wires and boots are crap. Thinking it is the latter because when installing the new plugs number 3's wire came out of the boot. Most of the time that is a new set of coils as the wires are molded in. But some guys on the SOHC forum have found a couple ways to replace. The first is just get a splicer like the one made by NGK, bout 8 bucks a hit from bikebandit.com so that is 32 for my bike. Or another method is to cut into the coils and solder in new better wire, what I am leaning towards. Would like new coils anyway so if I mess it up then nothing lost, except about 20 bucks for the wire and new boots. Should be better wire than stock and also much better boots. Wish I could just pop on new boots but the wires are too short as is.

I replaced the old regulator I fried with a solid state from an F-150. Took some finagling to get it in there but it works well. I couldn't believe the damage I caused the old regulator. I thought hey I will just cut the wire back a bit and solder on new longer wire. Way wrong. The wire was so damaged that it had burnt the insulation up immediately and all the way back to the section that 4 wires are soldered together. It had burnt up and separated from the rest of the wire and just fell out of the insulation in my hands. I was disgusted with my self after discovering that, I'll be far more careful next time. There was no other damage to the wires at that intersection, something I found interesting.

With the new regulator installed the smoke from the cylinders 1 & 3 had decreased a lot. I also found out just how dumb I am. For wanting to be an engineer you'd think I'd stop and think a bit more. Couldn't figure out why the bike wouldn't run without choke.... it was running without choke, had the lever positions confused as I hadn't looked it up ever and just assumed. I put everything back together today and got the lever positions where I want them. I ride this bike really far forward so the shifter is at a steep angle but the brake lever is awkward, going to look into that. Which brings me to my next comment. I rode it today. First time the bike has been on the road, other than in the back of a truck, in 26 years. It felt great but it was very dangerous. Doesn't have a front brake right now and the rear brakes are notorious for rotting and separating from the hub after a few years of sitting. Was cautious as I could be and it was fine, amazing really. Was all smiles as I tooled around my neighborhood, never going over 3k rpms. So much smoother and more comfortable than my dirt bike, but the dirt bike is easier for me to lean into corners on. After I get comfortable on this one it will be too, just not yet. Looked like a moron wearing my dirt bike helmet but it was safer than nothing. Need proper motorcycle riding equipment rather than my dirt bike gear.

Ordered a new UNI filter after I found one on Ebay. It was about 30 bucks compared to about 60 bucks for OEM. Going to order brake pads for the rear tonight as well. Tomorrow I'll try to unfreeze the master cylinder and check the caliper. Got a few ideas of what to do but not sure how it will go. It will need a rebuild on the master cylinder, probably the caliper. Then it is just bearings, grease, chain, and tires and I can ride it until winter. Then it gets torn down and completely overhauled and really restored.

Got some new pictures of it for now.

Edited by jostith, 23 June 2012 - 07:13 PM.

looks great! im working with a 71 cb500 right now, putting rings in it and basic tuning and everything trying to get it back on the road, but ive had this thought and im betting a few other people who have worked on these may have wondered something similar. I was thinking about eliminating the air box because of how cramped the entire intake system is and just running 4 of the same size cold air intakes attached by a custom bracket, what is your opinion on this?  i do not know whether or not this would let to much air in or cause the bike to run sloppily. thanks

camokid, on 29 June 2012 - 10:23 AM, said:

You going to use K&N pods? You will need to re-jet.....some people dont like the pods if they ride in the rain.

skisnh, on 29 June 2012 - 10:59 AM, said:

probably, rain will not be an issue for the most part, however is there a kit for doing this? or do you just have to buy 4 of the same filters and make them work yourself? and as far as re-jetting how would you know what jets to buy, ( sorry for all the questions , never done anything like this before ) thanks for the help

From what I have read on the subject they are not good. I really like the way the look but will not run them. They are supposed to be impossible to tune your carbs if you install them. What would you do with the added space anyway?

There are 4 filter kits but they are not cheap, round $100 or so on ebay, you will need to make the bracket yourself though but they need to be supported or your carbs will fall and I've heard of cracking bowls from them swinging down.

Join SOHC.net, they have a ton of info and a lot more technical info than this site when it comes to the vintage stuff. Been amazing for my build. But unless you plan on a cafe racer there really is no point in pods, I do have a friend that runs them inside an airbox on his 350. Very strange, he bought it that way and it is only two cylinder but still odd.