Could this be damaging?

Started by yz250d , Apr 10 2012 07:47 AM

66 replies to this topic

ikis86

Posted 10 April 2012 - 07:43 PM

#21

me a smartass? you're the one bragging about how much you know. jealous? i build engines for a living sunshine, i've probably forgotten more than you know.

as if i'm even arguing about this. i'm done with this thread.

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Dylan105

Posted 10 April 2012 - 07:48 PM

#22

i didnt say how much i know, i said what ive done. bye :thumbsup:

choppertown

Posted 10 April 2012 - 07:59 PM

#23

you did fine. the only thing that needs to "brake" in on a motor is the rings. they just need to seat to the cylinder. that can be done gently. or by riding it hard. either or is fine.

matt3357

Posted 10 April 2012 - 08:03 PM

#24

choppertown, on 10 April 2012 - 07:59 PM, said:

you did fine. the only thing that needs to "brake" in on a motor is the rings. they just need to seat to the cylinder. that can be done gently. or by riding it hard. either or is fine.

^ this

yz250d

Posted 10 April 2012 - 09:44 PM

#25

Tech420, on 10 April 2012 - 02:16 PM, said:

Don't you think you should have asked this a little earlier?

ya i should have but i didnt really think about it till i was done on the track staring at my bike thinking it looks so new....

yz250d

Posted 10 April 2012 - 09:56 PM

#26

Yamaha15DK, on 10 April 2012 - 05:51 PM, said:

If you run it like hell it will blow up easier. when you rebuild the top end you want to start it up and let it worm up then let it cool down them start it up let it worm up and then ride it for ten min no more than half throttle then let it cool down then worm it up and then ride it for 20 min no more than half throttle the cool down then worm up and ride for 30 min no more than half throttle then let it cool down the the break in is done.. if you just start it up and give it hell the piston ring will expand more than it should and it will wear more off than it should then it will have low compression. that's why you do those worm up and cool down cycles because when you break it in the ring is wearing into the cylender and it causes alot of heat and will cause the ring to expand more. so just slow and easy will break it in. every experienced mechanic will tell you that. I'm 15 and I do all my engines and I even know that.

P.S. If you get a service manual it will tell you everythying!

I appreciate your advice but like everyone said this is just a theory not a fact, so it might not be "the right way". If the way i did it is also one of the theories then it could be the right way but since nobody has said its the wrong way then i guess im ok.
"Im 15 and I do all my engines and I even know that"
You want credit or something???? seriously...

orangehorse101

Posted 10 April 2012 - 10:12 PM

#27

When i get BRAND NEW bikes i like to do a few heat cycles (agree or disagree guys, i do not care). Most importantly (in my opinion) i change the oil after those few cycles for the fact that all the parts (clutch assembly, gears, all the bearings, bushings, etc.) are new machined parts and haven't been worked around for however long they've been on the showroom floor. Everyone has different theories, opinions, and views on it...some get lucky, some not so much. I just play it safe for the simple fact that the machines these days aren't cheap and these few steps are really simple and could save you some cash and a headache in the long run.

Also, just a thought.... when a bikes BRAND NEW, that cylinder has never seen a heat cycle yet. Metal does expand and contract when there is high heat present. I would imagine with a bike that is sleeved this process would be much more important than a bike with nikasil such as your YZ. But i'm no expert.

Edited by orangehorse101, 10 April 2012 - 10:20 PM.

rpt50

Posted 11 April 2012 - 02:01 AM

#28

It's a 2 stroke.  Even if you did hurt it (unlikely), a new top-end is going to cost < $140.  Change the tranny oil after an hour or so of riding, and just ride.

When you do replace the top end, I suggest this:
1. replace piston with a wiseco forged
2. warm the bike with two no load (on the stand) heat cycles, letting it cool completely between.  While the bike is running, look for things that are loose (vibration) or leaking, etc.
3. take an easy ride (in the back yard or wherever) up to operating temperature and let cool.
4. ride normally.

Everybody has there own break-in method (from dry assembly and WOT to numerous no-load cycles), but there is really no way for an individual owner to know what is best.  The above works for me.

Yamaha15DK

Posted 11 April 2012 - 06:19 AM

#29

I don't rush either I do it the right way and I have always had the motors I work on run. You guys are just too immature and think just because I 15 year old puts in helpful info that he dose not know what he is doing. I'm 15 and more mature than you guys. It's pathetic.

Tech707

Posted 11 April 2012 - 06:25 AM

#30

Yamaha15DK, on 11 April 2012 - 06:19 AM, said:

Yes, your maturity is clearly shown through unintelligent posts and lack of understanding for the fact with age comes experience. You have some time in the garage with dad, not real world field work. When you have brought home a paycheck for rebuilding motors then come back and spill your nonsense about "the right way" to break in a motor.

MrDieselTwitch

Posted 11 April 2012 - 06:34 AM

#31

Yamaha15DK, on 11 April 2012 - 06:19 AM, said:

And for the love of all that is right, PAY ATTENTION IN ENGLISH CLASS!!!

Yamaha15DK

Posted 11 April 2012 - 06:35 AM

#32

you could not be anymore wrong. I haven't done work with my dad on anything sense I was like 5. I have a lot of experience on 2 strokes. And I fix bikes for people I do everything on a 2 stroke from changing fork seals to complete motor rebuilds. But I'm not gonna waist my time arguing with immature people. I'll be the mature person here and say I'm done arguing.

Bearman108

Posted 11 April 2012 - 07:05 AM

#33

Yamaha15DK, on 11 April 2012 - 06:19 AM, said:

Bro, first off take a chill pill. when you come on to a forum where everyone is allowed to have an opinion (the whole point of a forum) and start spouting off how your way is the "right" way expect a little bit of backfire. It may be the way they tell you to do it in the manual but that doesn't mean its the only way. So before you start having a little teeny bopper episode about how everyone else is immature... go have a snack, get a reality check, and go back to the second grade to learn some proper grammar because it's pretty hard to win an argument when you sound like an idiot.

younggunz

Posted 11 April 2012 - 07:22 AM

#34

Yamaha15DK, on 11 April 2012 - 06:35 AM, said:

dude, you have worms in your bike? :thumbsup:

how big was the dose? :thumbsup:

do you have a 6th sense too? :thumbsup:

man, you need to go back to school.... your grammar is worse than rickys...

Yamaha15DK

Posted 11 April 2012 - 08:08 AM

#35

I'm not trying to be a dick guys. And I wasn't saying the way I do it is always the best way. I was just trying to tell my opinion . sorry for trying to help.

Posted 11 April 2012 - 08:17 AM

#36

Here's the way I see it.
If you bought a brand new bike, a dealer tech did his inspection, fired it up, and took it for a spin. That's one "heat cycle" out of the way. Hopefully he double checked everything before it was turned over to you.
Then you got the bike. Hopefully you checked everything over before you went to the track. You warmed it up well, and rode it. You accelerated and decelerated hard, which loads the rings and seats them. You were on the track, so it most likely wasn't pinned wide open for extended periods.
Once you change the tranny oil, it's perfect.

That's the way I like to do it. Warm up, short spin, check for leaks, cool down, check tourque, warm up, moderately hard ride with lots of accel-decel, change oil.

Edited by ubu, 11 April 2012 - 08:22 AM.

owainyz03

Posted 11 April 2012 - 08:30 AM

#37

Swede73, on 10 April 2012 - 06:58 PM, said:

He is the exact reason why I wish TT still had the users age posted next to their name like it was on the old board that way you know who's advise to heade and who's advise to just ignore.

So you automatically assume that teenagers on this forum have no clue what they are talking about? I love how you bash him for spelling when you have ''who's advise to heade'' when it should be ''who's advice to heed''. I'm just saying not every 15 year old is stupid

MrDieselTwitch

Posted 11 April 2012 - 09:06 AM

#38

owainyz03, on 11 April 2012 - 08:30 AM, said:

You make a valid point, but we all know there is a difference between smart teen and an experienced teen. I've yet to meet a 16 year old who didn't think they where the greatest driver in the world. I'm sure he knows what he's talking about, or at the very least is quickly learning, props to him on that. However, its more about the attitude than the information. And we've all been there! Thats the great thing about a forum, it allow people to exchange ideas and thoughts, ask for proof and evidence and state options.

In the army we had a list of "famous last words" and among them was the 1st LT saying "Based on my experience..." I think it apples here...

dmm698

Posted 11 April 2012 - 02:02 PM

#39

By the time the thing gets to you from the dealer it has been started and warmed up at least once or twice. Take it to the track, warm it up in the pits and hit the track. Hold it as WFO as you can so you can load the rings and seat them. Nickasyl is a very tough coating. Was my approach to every top end I have done on two strokes, and even my 11 kx250f On its first ride.

Edited by dmm698, 11 April 2012 - 02:02 PM.