WR450F Problem - Work Around
Posted October 17, 2003 - 05:42 AM
1) The Jetting on the carb is too lean and causes backfires
2) The rotor nut is not properly torque at the factory
3) The taper on the rotor is too short and too steep, so a higher torque, lapping and loctite are need to make it stay in place
4) The starter gears do not roll backwards
5) So, when the rotor turns backwards due to backfires, the rotor spins but not the flywheel breaking the woodruff key, killing the timing, thus no starting
6) Simple answer, lap rotor, torque, and loctite rotor nut, properly jet to prevent backfires (Oh Yeah, it will run like a beast with proper jetting)
7) TAKE THE GEARS OUT OF THE STARTER, the real problem is the starter gears DO NOT roll backwards
Well, I took to the local shop that sold the bike to the original owner in April this year. They are rechecking the rotor torque and woodruff key. I will have them take out the starter gears before I bring it home. E-start is cool; not pushing a bike 2 miles is cooler.
Posted October 17, 2003 - 05:51 AM
You figured all this out in 10 seconds.
Thanks for sharing!
Posted October 17, 2003 - 06:32 AM
Posted October 17, 2003 - 06:46 AM
Just trying to help out the next newbie.
And your post most certainly will. There is alot of discussion about lapping and locktite, but the real problem is the design. Whimpy little starter with no stamina and gears that do not disengage. If I rode a 450 my first mod would be taking the gear out of the starter. I don't mind kicking, but pushing sucks. Good summary.
Posted October 17, 2003 - 07:09 AM
Lapping 2 hardened surfaces will remove nothing. Using glue is a yard ape fix.
Yamaha screwed up and dosn't want to admit it or pay the costs to make it right.
I always take my cellphone with me.
Posted October 17, 2003 - 07:10 AM
Posted October 17, 2003 - 01:24 PM
Posted October 17, 2003 - 01:26 PM
Posted October 17, 2003 - 02:07 PM
Posted October 18, 2003 - 05:04 AM
Removing the battery does NOT waste the stator. Removing the battery is the same as having a charged one inline. The stator will only deliver if a current draw is demanded.
I can unhook my stator wires completely, it doesn't hurt a thing?
Posted October 19, 2003 - 07:59 AM
Posted October 19, 2003 - 02:33 PM
Posted October 21, 2003 - 06:16 PM
I've heard all the work around for this problem: replacing key, loctite, re-torque, duct tape, voo doo, acupuncture, etc...
Can a properly functioning idler gear be obtained? I haven't had mine shear yet, but I'm not looking forward to it happening... I want to have confidence that I am never going to have to push.
Posted October 22, 2003 - 02:38 AM
Posted October 22, 2003 - 04:03 PM
Posted October 24, 2003 - 05:54 AM
Posted October 24, 2003 - 12:10 PM