wiring for DC voltage - WR stator on YZ


5 replies to this topic
  • glenm670

Posted April 07, 2012 - 06:14 PM

#1

So I gave up on the cheapo made in china stator and found a WR stator and flywheel. After the install, the bike feels totally different on the trails and road, and starts on first or second kick every time. With the Chinese stator, it would start on the first or second kick cold, but once it was hot it wouldn't start again until the engine temp was below 100 degrees. Lesson learned, again...

I've added a DHH headlight, LED tail light and turn signals, a horn, a Trail Tech Vapor, and a 12v LiPo battery. They're all connected to a home made harness, and they all have their own ground that is NOT connected to the frame of the bike. With the cheap stator, I grounded one of the yellow wires to the frame and ran the other to an AC regulator, then on to the headlight. That setup sucked at idle, but was tolerable with some RPMs. Since the Vapor and LED lights use so little power, I just let the LiPo battery power them and kept it connected to a battery tender when I wasn't riding.

Now that I have a real stator that can handle everything I have and more, I'd like to incorporate a charging circuit and power the headlight with DC voltage. I bought a Trail Tech regulator/rectifier (http://www.trailtech...7004-RR150.html) and figured I'd be good to go, at least until the WR stator came in and I realized it only has one yellow wire for the lighting circuit, while the regulator/rectifier needs two. I had to ground the light pink wire out of the CDI connector to get spark, and my single yellow wire is putting out lots of AC voltage. My guess is that the other wire for the lighting coil is already grounded at the stator, and that disconnecting it from ground should give me the two wires I need for the regulator/rectifier. Unfortunately, I forgot to check the stator before installing it, and the flywheel puller for my YZ flywheel won't work with the new one!

I have searched the forum quite a bit, but there are so many posts with different and often conflicting information, that I figured I'd have better luck this way. Basically, I just need to know how to wire a two wire rectifier to a stock WR stator with a single yellow wire. I really don't want to throw more $$$ at a puller if I don't need it so hopefully there's a way to do this without pulling the flywheel? Any ideas? Suggestions?

Thanks!!!

  • grayracer513

Posted April 07, 2012 - 06:45 PM

#2

You didn't say, but I'll assume you're working on a 426. In order for the WR stator to work with the YZ ignition, you need this mod:

http://www.thumperta...52#post10674552

  • glenm670

Posted April 07, 2012 - 07:22 PM

#3

It's actually a YZ 400, and I have already done the pink wire mod. I had to do thatin order to get spark...

I saw the post you mention before I posted this, but he's running all AC without a recitifier -- only a regulator. I really want to run DC and use my regulator/rectifier.

Thanks!

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  • glenm670

Posted April 08, 2012 - 05:29 PM

#4

Okay, just in case anyone other than grayracer read this and is curious, I figured it out. The lighting coil on the stock WR stator is grounded to the stator plate. I cut it loose from the ground and soldered a long wire to it. Then I connected the original yellow wire that was providing AC current and the new wire to the two yellow wires on my regulator/rectifier. A little adjustment on the regulator and I'm getting 14.5 volts DC above 3000 RPM, and between 12.5-14 below 3K. I know 14.5 is probably higher than most, but I'm running a small 4 cell Lithium Ion battery that needs 14.4 to charge properly.

I've become very familiar with the electrical setup on the YZ both before and after the WR stator swap and would be more than happy to assist anyone doing the same. Feel free to shoot me a message if you need more info.

On a side note, my local Autozone loaned me a harmonic balancer puller that worked perfectly on the WR flywheel. I just used some of the bolts from the flywheel housing cover with some fender washers and it popped right off!

Thanks!

  • Xjcolorado

Posted April 09, 2012 - 12:18 PM

#5

For anyone else that is curious, I just did a very similar setup on my 2002 yz426 with wr250 flywheel and stator and the trailtech reg/rec with a 12v 1.3ah sealed lead acid battery and was able to run one of the yellow wires from the reg/rec to the yellow output from the stator and the other yellow reg/rec wire was grounded to the frame. You just have to make sure that your reg/rec is isolated from metal (mine is mounted in the airbox). I just finished this project 2 days ago so it hasn't had much time to reveal any problems yet but it seems to be working great and keeping the battery charged.

-Mitch

  • rknaub

Posted August 30, 2012 - 11:05 AM

#6

Okay, just in case anyone other than grayracer read this and is curious, I figured it out. The lighting coil on the stock WR stator is grounded to the stator plate. I cut it loose from the ground and soldered a long wire to it. Then I connected the original yellow wire that was providing AC current and the new wire to the two yellow wires on my regulator/rectifier. A little adjustment on the regulator and I'm getting 14.5 volts DC above 3000 RPM, and between 12.5-14 below 3K. I know 14.5 is probably higher than most, but I'm running a small 4 cell Lithium Ion battery that needs 14.4 to charge properly.

I've become very familiar with the electrical setup on the YZ both before and after the WR stator swap and would be more than happy to assist anyone doing the same. Feel free to shoot me a message if you need more info.

On a side note, my local Autozone loaned me a harmonic balancer puller that worked perfectly on the WR flywheel. I just used some of the bolts from the flywheel housing cover with some fender washers and it popped right off!

Thanks!


Rather than running a new wire to the stator, I just used the pink wire. Cut it from the stator, solder and heat shrink it to the ground wire that you also cut, then where you do the pink wire mod, run that leftover pink wire to the other yellow wire of your reg/rec. worked great for me. Getting almost 13 VDC out of my reg now, at 1900RPM.





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