you can be in great shape, but if your trying to do harescrambles and hitting sharp edged bumps and roots, rocks, etc. with MX stock valving.. your gonna get tired, and possibly arm pump that you wouldn't have had with a softer setup. Yes, ya still need to be in decent shape, but if your gonna ride woods/harescrambles race, you can work on getting in shape AFTER you do the valving. By the time you ride yourself into shape, you will be that much more familiar (ie: faster) with that softer setup!

I have a Yamalink on my WR(I am 5'4") I found the link lowered the center of gravity which did awesome things for handling, super flicky and responsive. Re the steering dampener I've found that working on my grip and forearm strength (while holding on loosely, nonono death grip!) gives some of the same effect.

Read up on messing with the clickers for compression and rebound. ALso, when you have a lowering link on, suspension is adjusted a bit differently--you dont' just slap it on and go with what you had before.

MXandSXracer21, on 03 April 2012 - 12:49 PM, said:

I believed the same for years and rode "proper" offroad bikes. As my speed progressed i was having issues though. Now on a MX bike i'm able to ride quicker and safer. Yes smaller bumps are felt more but the bigger squared edged stuff is SO MUCH better. Whoops can be fun now instead of just surviving.

It seems to me at a quick B pace or quicker most MX bikes are pretty good. Typical HS course gets torn up worse than a MX track!  A Slower enduro would be another story.

I think you should look into a lowering link.  Some people will say it messes up the handling, and I havent ran one (6'1" i dont have the need) but I do realize the benefits of being able to touch in the woods and especially during harescrambles.    I would go for it if I were you.

stlavsa, on 23 April 2012 - 05:56 PM, said:

Most of the issues with ground touch are easily overcome by being shape and practicing techniques for correct muscle strength/use for a variety of conditions. Correct suspension setup and settings, plus a seat shave if need be, should be enough for most smaller riders IMO. Lowering links are nothing but half-ass grief IMHO.

Chaconne, on 24 April 2012 - 03:54 PM, said:

When you're tall, you can touch down in alot more "iffy" situations like boulder fields, big logs crossings and creek crossings, which is an advantage.  When you're short, you can't, which is disadvantage.  Also, just try kicking over a tall bike when you're short.

I've never tried a lowering link but, I'm alot more confident on my TTR250 in some situations than I am on my WR250 in those same situations.  I would not discount the value of a lowering link for many riders without trying one,  One nice thing about them is that they are as easy to remove as they are to install.

NemadjiMan, on 25 April 2012 - 09:59 AM, said:

It is not the install that is the issue, it is the tuning and the changes in handling that makes them grief IMO. And since I have tried one, it is at least my experience that they are not worth it.

I am a smaller rider and I think your comparison of the TTR to the WR is exactly the mistake smaller riders tend to make. With the correct practice and conditioning I think you could improve your confidence on the WR. For me at least, it was just getting used to a different comfort zone and getting less familiar muscles into shape as I moved onto higher bikes.    

Regarding "iffy" situations sometimes they are advantageous to the taller rider sometimes not --depends on the situation IMHO. I get my bikes started as easily as my taller friends even though I am on my tip toes and they are not --it is all in the technique.

Edited by Chaconne, 25 April 2012 - 01:54 PM.

in tehnical situations (ex. zig-zag ascent) taller riders always have advantage, but rider skills (clutch, trottle, brake, balance) are more important. Graham Jarvis is not a tall rider and hes maybe the best hard enduro rider at the moment.

Chaconne, on 25 April 2012 - 01:53 PM, said:

I've been riding "tall" bikes since 1984.  I ride the WR for racing and the TTR for trailwork.  I would not want to switch their roles.  So, depending on what kind of riding you're doing, your experience level, your fitness level, etc.a taller or shorter bike is the appropriate choice.

Lots of people install lowering links and are perfectly happy with the results.  Some do and are not.

@5-6 you are not too far from touching the ground unless you have a disportional body. You can lower the seat height by shortening the rear points where the sub frame mounts to the frame. I did this on a couple CRs for my daughters. You can also run a shaved seat and gain another 1-2 inches.

Paddy with power, on 03 April 2012 - 09:55 AM, said:

Yes practice, but on a properly setup bike 1st.  Thats dirtbiking 101.  Practice on a bike thats sprung for your weight, valved for your style and you'll become ALOT better rider overnight.  Ride with MX suspension in the woods and it will beat you to death and give you arm pump/fatigue in no time.  Stiff, harsh, deflecting off everything suspension doesn't do a bit of good for your confidence or speed. I couldn't ever get that much better or confident on my MX bikes in the woods, but when I finally got an off-road set up for me, I was able to take it to the next level.  I am alot more confident and a 100x better with speed and technique.  That was the smartest $500 I ever spent IMO.  Its totally worth spending a little money especially if your a rookie...

Blackwoodz, on 26 April 2012 - 10:05 AM, said:

+1

narrow bars and you lose leverage. I would just adjust the sag setting and be done.